About ½ mile inland a large and deep canal runs parallel to the river. This whole tract is entirely deserted, and, from its appearance, it seems probable that it was thrown out of cultivation prior to the rebellion of 1884. Four miles south of Wad Habashi is the boundary between the provinces of Berber and Khartoum, the limits being marked by the isolated granite hill on the east bank, known by the name of “Hagar El Asal.” From this point, the reefs forming Sixth Cataract.the tail of the Shabluka Cataract begin, and navigation at low water becomes impossible for steamers.[29] Although the actual cataract, or rapid, is only some 12 miles in length, the bad water, above and below the pass, extends for a length of some 55 miles, i.e., to Wad Ramla, or to within 35 miles of Khartoum.
In summer, i.e., if the railway is not used, this portion of the journey has either to be made in native boats, or by camel portage round the cataract. The land route is shorter than that by the river, being not more than 26 miles in length.
Wad Hamed.Five miles above Wad Habashi the former cavalry station of Wad Hamed is passed on the west bank. This place was selected as the headquarters of the Egyptian cavalry on account of the good fodder to be found in the vicinity. From here the difficulties of navigation increase; the river is split into numerous channels, and winds between picturesque islands, covered with a luxuriant growth of vegetation. Rocks and reefs appear above the water, and the swirls and eddies indicate the existence of many more below the surface. It was in this part of the rapid, on Mernat Island, that the “Bordein” steamer went aground on returning from Khartoum in 1885. Low serrated granite ridges confine the river on either side.
At the entrance of the Shabluka gorge, the channel takes a very sharp turn to the east, and the section is both deep and narrow—not being more than 200 yards in width anywhere, and in some places even less than this. The river runs between high granite hills for some 4 or 5 miles, with a very high velocity. The marks upon the rocks show that the highest flood level is not more than 7 feet above the water level of the river in March.
The northern entrance to the pass was guarded by five Dervish forts, now in ruins; four on the western and one on the eastern bank. These completely command the channel. On emerging from this gorge the river widens out, and the difficulties of navigation recommence. Reefs, rocks, and islands appear in all directions; the solitary peaks of Jebel Royan and Jebel Tyem stand out, one on either bank. At some 20 miles up-stream of the pass Wad Ramla is reached; from this point to Khartoum navigation, with care, is possible for steamers, even at lowest Nile. The country on both sides becomes more open, and many large islands are passed, most of which, notably that of Tamaniat, bear fine crops of dura. Large quantities of hay are also grown upon these islands and transported to Omdurman. The land on the east bank is good, and the cultivable strip extends for a considerable width, though covered as usual with scrub and rank grass. On the west bank the desert approaches the river closely.
Omdurman, Khartoum North, and Khartoum.
Omdurman.At 198 miles from the Atbara, the town of Omdurman is reached—the long low ridge of the Kereri hills to the north marking the scene of the battle in 1898. This town covers a large area, being some 5½ miles in length by 1 to 1½ miles in breadth. Its eastern frontage follows the river bank throughout. Two or three broad streets traverse it, but, with these exceptions, the houses are separated one from another by a network of twisting lanes. Some of the principal remaining Dervish houses, notably those of the Khalifa and Yagub, are spacious and well built. Ebony is much used in the roofs, and where the span is great, iron girders are inserted to support the roofing.
The “Beit El Amana,” or Dervish storehouse, covers a large area. Here are the old powder magazines and stores of a most miscellaneous description. The open-air mosque is simply a large inclosure, and within the “Sur,” or great wall, is packed a rabbit-warren of buildings, with narrow and winding streets. The entire town was, during the Dervish occupation, full of old cess-pits; these being merely deep holes sunk in the desert, and open to the air. These pits were probably largely responsible for the disease for which Omdurman attained such an evil reputation (Cerebrospinal meningitis), but which has now practically disappeared. The Mahdi’s tomb and Khalifa’s house, the latter still in good repair, are objects of interest for the tourist (vide pp. [266] and [252] respectively).
The town lies in a direct line 3 miles from Khartoum—but by water another mile, some 40 minutes by steamer. Very many of the houses are now deserted, but the population still numbers some 46,000. It lies on good gravel soil, and comprises, besides the old Dervish buildings above-mentioned, barracks for the garrison, which consists of 2 battalions infantry and 2 maxims. There is a large market (Suk), where a considerable trade in gum and other produce is carried on. On the sloping banks a large boat traffic is at work. Steamers and ferry boats connect the town with Khartoum. It is the residence of the sub-Governor of Khartoum Province who resides in a house built in the late Khalifa’s enclosure.
