| By kind permission of] | [M. Venieris. |
KHARTOUM: LOOKING NORTH FROM THE WAR OFFICE ROOF OVER TUTI ISLAND.
| By kind permission of] | [M. Venieris. |
THE PALACE AND GARDEN, KHARTOUM, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.
Section (3).—Khartoum to Lake No.
| Place. | Miles. Kilometres. | Left Bank. | River and General. | Right Bank. | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Inter-mediate. | From Omdurman. | ||||
| Omdurman | On the W. bank, after getting clear ofthe houses of Omdurman, a hard, sandy track is followed skirtingthe edge of the cultivation | In the first 15 miles up stream ofKhartoum the country on either side is low, flat, and treeless;cultivation is carried out on the mud flats, and on the islands,which appear as the water falls. The water channel is fully 2 mileswide in this reach. It is very shallow, and landing is almostimpossible on account of the shelving banks. On these last, as thewater falls, a crop of grass springs up, which affords grazing tolarge flocks of cattle and sheep. Further up stream the channelgets narrower, but it is still over a mile in width. Both banks arelow and fringed with thin and low thorny jungle, and except for theisolated hills of Jebel Auli and Jebel Gurun the country is a deadflat. On leaving Omdurman the water channel at once opens out, athigh Nile, to 2 or 3 miles, course for steamer close to R.bank | |||
| Left bank low, sandy, some scrub, andfurther on mimosa woods extending to river | Right bank; several villages, low, sandy,or swampy bank. | ||||
| Kalakla | 8 | 8 | Road from Khartoum passes through villageKalakla in large clump of trees and then continues on open desertsand about 2 miles from river; very good going. | ||
| Sheikh Salim | 3 | 11 | Sheikh Salim or Wad Um Meriam. | ||
| Village with high tomb in it. Road about2 miles from river. After this it enters some low sandhills withlarge clump of trees on river side about ½ mile off. The first openscrub begins, which thickens as it approaches the river. | |||||
| Gemmueiya district | 6 | 17 | Gemmueiya district.—A long, stragglingvillage of that name and tribe; track passes on desert side of itsome 3 miles from river; bank of river difficult of access forwatering owing to mud; some bush and trees; low volcanic range toW. Well passed on right just before reaching village 30 feet deep,7 feet diameter water good. A small tukl village just E. of hilland same name. Track as before. | ||
| Um Arda | 3 | 20 | Scrub gets thicker on R. bank. | ||
| Low flat island. About 9 miles long,trees S. end. Island banks inhabited by Jaalin and Hassania. | |||||
| Haneik | 7 | 27 | S. end of El Arda island. | ||
| Jebel Auli | 1 | 28 45 | Track unchanged, sparse bush on eitherflank; good camping ground (at low Nile) and watering place | Road runs round E. of Jebel Auli, a steepbare volcanic rock about 100 feet high. Good camping ground for abrigade or less under the mountain. Another track leads S.E. fromhere. | |
| Gar El Nabi | 2 | 30 | Road runs ½ to ¾ mile from river throughopen bush to Gar El Nabi; village mostly destroyed. | ||
| Jebel Mandara | 2 | 32 | Jebel Mendera or Mandara. Well definedtable hill 2 miles from L. bank, road passes spur of it. Bankswampy | Bank sandy. | |
| Wad El Kereil | 2 | 34 | Village to west of track | Water channel 3 miles broad at high Nile;keep to right bank | Road crossed by small khors and in placesby cultivation in zeribas. River invisible from it. |
| Mohammedia | 1 | 35 | Many small islands | Village; also called Wad El Kereil. | |
| Jebel Barima or Breima (Wad Belal) | 5 | 40 | Low hill. Watering place 1½ miles fromtrack. Latter crosses khors at intervals along route; good, somebush and trees, and sand dunes | Sand and swamp alternate on both bankswith trees growing into the water. Rocks appear at low Nile to W.of channel just before reaching the Jebel | Road runs through sand hills ½ mile fromriver and then closes to river at Wad Belal; good watering placeand wood station for steamers. |
| Abu Hagar | 12 | 52 82 | Dense scrub just before reaching El Hagaror Abu Hagar. Good camping ground ¼ mile to W. in desert. Wateringplace somewhat difficult of access at river; pools near desertafter high Nile. For 2 miles track continues good, then becomes asingle camel track, necessitating marching in file through verythick bush. The track to Homra (80 miles) and El Obeid graduallybranches off S.W. from the river track | Water channel 1¾ miles. | |
| El Geteina | 3 | 55 88 | Large village divided into 2 parts,clean, good market, some “Shaduf” cultivation. Headquarters of theGeteina district.P.T.O. Country flat; Danagla Arabs. Road runs through village hereabout 200 yards from river. Good going, chiefly through sand dunesand scattered bush. | ||
| Salahia | 4 | 59 | El Salahia district. Swamp or cracked mudnear river bank. Much dura in Wadi Sadik | South of this thick thorn bush commences.From here to El Dueim (66 miles) the same scenery continues.Cultivation is limited to the islands and foreshores. As the waterfalls, large mud flats in the centre of the river appear. To thesethe people transfer their cattle and belongings, build “tukls” andset up shadufs. The soil on these flats is good, and rich crops areproduced. As the majority of these islands are not exposed beforethe month of February, artificial irrigation for the crops isnecessary. These quickly ripen under the hot sun, and are, as arule, harvested in May. The river varies in width from 700 to 2,000yards. The west bank throughout this reach is fringed with acacias,and, at high Nile, is flooded for a long distance as the left bankis very low and shelving | E. bank open, high, and sandy. Sand hillscome down to the water’s edge. |
| Dazira and El Debeiker | 4 | 63 | Old salt works, a mile E. of track. | ||
| El Alaga | 7 | 70 | Good camping ground and watering place.For 3 miles track leads through dura cultivation, then good roadnear river bank | El Alaga district both banks. | |
| El Gerazi or Garrasa | 6 | 76 | Water channel 2 to 3 miles broad for next40 miles. Vast quantities of water birds of all sorts inhabit theNile almost from Khartoum upwards, and large numbers of crocodilesare visible, one or more on nearly every mud bank | Low sand hills with Danagla village ofGerazi to S. of them. People poor, no market. Good meshra. Roadruns from here through 3 or 4 miles of dura land ½ to ¼ mile fromriver, then along sand hills near river to Wad Shalai. | |
| Wad Shalai | 6 | 82 132 | Village of conical thatched houses; banksbecome drier; series of villages from here along right bank at 2 to5 miles interval. Road runs for about 3½ miles through sand dunesclose to river, then gradually leaves river, and passes throughdura ground about 1½ miles from it. | ||
| Wad Nimr | 2 | 84 | A long straggling village and name of thedistrict. Good watering place 5 miles S., the desert road joins theriver road. Track runs some way from the river skirting the edge ofthe cultivation. | ||
| Wad El Zaki | 5 | 89 | Large village on top of some sand hills,pop. 400 to 500. From here 3 miles takes one to a few houses about2 miles from the river on some sand hills called Sayif, one ofthree villages of that name. Road goes on over cotton soil for 4miles, then crosses sand hill ridge for about 1 mile and descendsto a plain close to river where another village, also called Sayif,is seen 2 miles inland. | ||
| El Rahawat | 1 | 90 | On left bank nearly opposite Wad El Zakiis El Rahawat watering place, good camping ground. Leaving thisvillage the track on desert side of the cultivation should befollowed. Three miles on sand dunes are passed on R., and behindthem is the canal, some 20 miles long, 500 yards broad and 6 feetdeep. (Feb’y.) | Commencement of Tura El Khadra (GreenCanal) district. | |
| Sayif | 5 | 95 | Good meshra and ferry to other bank; goodbuilding and cultivation. The road from here to Dabasi Meshra isover cotton soil with low scrub on river side. | ||
| Tura El Suk and Zif | 5 | 100 | Four miles from river | Zif village. Hashaba a mile to theE. | |
| Dabasi Meshra, or Dobasi | 6 | 106 | Khalifa had big grain depôt here, ruinsof which can still be seen. Ferry. Road runs through sand hills ½mile from river to Dabasi. | ||
| Dabasi | 1½ | 107½ 173 | Telegraph line to El Obeid branches offhere from Dueim line at Minedrib | Fair-sized village, 400 to 500inhabitants on road. From Dabasi to Shabasha road remains close tobank, thence for next 10 miles 1 to 1½ miles distant. | |
| Amara and Jebel Arashkol | 1½ | 109 175 | About 10 miles west of left bank is thehigh rugged mass of Jebel Arashkol, with several distinct peaks.Volcanic. Chief peak named J. Abd el Daim | Island Manir Long, flat, well-wooded island opposite Amara. | Amara village (or Um Arda). |
| Shabasha | 3 | 112 | Good camping ground and excellentwatering place. Village under spur from main mass of JebelArashkol. Track continues through cultivation. Good going | A ferry connects Shabasha El Gharb withShabasha El Sharg (on the east of the river). | |
| Ghobeisha | 9 | 121 | The road closes to river at Meshra.Ghobeisha village. Good place for camp and watering. Road crossesopen plain with high grass; cotton soil; probably under water athigh Nile (?) | ||
| El Dueim | 4 | 125 201 | Town of fluctuatingpopulation of about 7,000 inhabitants; disembarking place for ElObeid. Head Quarters of the White Nile Province and residence ofthe Governor. El Dueim is developing into an important tradecentre; large market; principal mart for export Kordofan gum.Substantial Government offices. Starting point of Sudan transportservice for El Obeid. The plain all round is open and the localityis fairly healthy. Up-stream from El Dueim some fine strips ofcultivation occur along the foreshore. Behind this belt grows afringe of acacias, and beyond lies a rolling steppe. Action here23.8.83; small Egyptian garrison repulsed Mahdists. | Channel narrows to 1 mile or less | Road opposite Dueim leads to Maatuk,Managil, and Wad Medani. |
| The east bank is covered with low bushand a little cultivation. Track leads N.E. (20 miles) toMaatuk. | |||||
| Hassania Island (N. end) | 5 | 130 | Island (sometimes under water) | Half a mile on Meshra Ghayafa. Goodcamping ground and watering place; sandhill near Meshra. Sandfairly thick; cotton soil. | |
| Denegila | 5 | 135 | Village west of road opposite island ofsame name, chief village of which is Mahbale. 1½ miles further isvillage of Abu Gurun, north of road where it crosses track to UmSaneita. Dura crops in this district. | ||
| Um Gar | 3 | 138 | Um Gar village. Good watering place andcamping ground. Track leads 5 miles to opposite Kawa, through bushand trees | Um Gar Island. | |
| Meshra El Hella | 5 | 143 | Small floating pieces of suddbegin to appear | Thick bush close to river to Meshra ElHella. Road runs close to river to Kawa. | |
| Kawa | 3 | 146 236 | Wad Abu Rul, opposite Kawa. Thick bushand trees on banks. Gum depôt belonging to Kordofan province. | Large village, 500inhabitants. Residence of British Inspector and Mamur. Wooding station forsteamers. Post and Telegraph Office. Road hence to Sennar. Kawa isbuilt on high land and bush is open all round it. Inhabitantsmixture Jaalin, Hassania, and Danagla. The houses are mostly roundwith thatched conical roofs. Large market, neat Government offices.Boat building has been started; ferry. Track from here northwards(31 miles) to Ma’atuk. | |
| Lakadawia | — | — | Wooded island close by, with north endopposite, Kawa; about 4 miles long; richly cultivated with avariety of crops, comprising wheat, barley, onions, lubia, bamia,and dukhn. Above this the forest belt covers both banks of theriver, and is often flooded for a great distance on eitherside | ||
| The road runs ½ mile from river throughdura cultivation, and then over grassy plains past villages of AbuHindi and Fum Omer to Shaggara. | |||||
| Meshra Shaggara, Kenuz | 8 | 154 | Meshra and village close to river, thencepast Kenuz with island opposite. The road runs ¼ to ½ mile fromriver. Hassan Allob on banks with village called Dabus opposite,still through dura country to Nur El Daim. | ||
| Hassan Alob and Dabus | 2 | 156 | Village. | ||
| Nur El Daeim | 3 | 159 | Large village and police station; 1 miledistant from river. | ||
| Khor Gusab (?) | 1 | 160 | Watering place. Road now leads throughdense bush; river unapproachable till Um Turan. | ||
| Sheikh’s Tomb | 2 | 162 | Tomb of Sheikh Nur El Taib; three largetrees, ruined mud and brick buildings and some flags mark it. Roadbends due south to Shawal. | ||
| Shawal, Abu Lahm, and Aba Island (N. end) | 1 | 163 262 | Abu Lahm at point of curve | North end of Aba Island. Take westernchannel. Island cultivated in places, some 27 miles in length, beltof trees along river’s edge, but interior only thinly wooded.Higher at south than at north end. Inhabited by a few Shilluks.From this point the character of both banks changes. The sand dunesseen lower down the river have been gradually disappearing, andblack cotton soil now comes down to the water’s edge, which isfringed at low Nile by reeds, and by bunches of sudd which havefloated down from the Bahr El Jebel. Beyond the fringe of are whatare at high Nile grassy swamps, but at low Nile are dry andexcellent grazing grounds. Behind this swampy ground is a belt offine sant and other acacias. From here to Jebelein at low Nilethousands of sheep and goats and herds of cattle are seen grazingon either bank. These belong to the tribes living inland, where atthis time of year water and grazing is scarce. | Village right. Three conspicuous singlehills (Jebel Tuema?) about 20 miles south-east and a fourth peakedhill rather south of these (Jebel Buyut?). Country on right openbush, slightly undulating, good sandy watering places onriver. |
| Um Turan (?) | 2 | 165 | Watering place. Road improves; good goingalong bank till Fachi Shoya. | ||
| Malaha | 1 | 166 | Meshra Malaha and village Malaha; saltworks. Road enters scrub; bush country to Marabia. | ||
| Marabia | 8 | 174 | Action 29.4.83; Hicks Pasha defeatedDervishes. Good camping place on high ground, where there are ruinsof an old fort and brick buildings. Road leaves river, crosses agrassy plain, probably under water at high Nile, past village Torba(186) east of road, and turns towards river. | ||
| Mahdi’s Place | 1 | 175 | Large tree on river bank; ruins of mudhouses. | ||
| Fachi Shoya | 1 | 176 283 | Starting point for Sherkeila and SouthKordofan. Country open. Good camping and watering place. Villagedeserted. Base of two expeditions in 1899. | The banks on both sides now begin to befringed with reeds, the strip extending gradually in width from afew yards to 400 or 500 yards. Behind this are fine sant trees,etc. | |
| Hesai Island | 2 | 178 | Thick trees and bush, up to 1½ miles inwidth, commence | Between Aba Island and right bank.Mangara village on Aba Island. | |
| El Alob | 7 | 185 | Village; track leads S.W. to Gedid (33miles). | ||
| Zeinuba and Aba Island (S. end) | 6 | 191 | El Khema district both banks. Shillukvillage at south end of Aba Island. | “Manjera” (boat yard) of Zeinuba underclump of large trees. | |
| Goz Abu Guma and Wurelat Island | 1 | 192 309 | Track leads S.W. (32 miles) to Gedid | Wurelat Island,opposite Goz Abu Guma. Large grass islands make their appearance inthe river (January). The eastern channel opposite Goz Abu Guma isshallow, and dries up at low Nile, when a landing has to beeffected either 2 miles above the town or on the west bank of theisland opposite the town. | Headquarters of district ofthat name. Telegraph and Post Office. The telegraph line fromSennar (Blue Nile) across the Gezira reaches the White Nile hereand continues southwards. East bank heavy grass with a few acacias.The east channel here is some 500 yards wide. The north and southroad runs ½ to 1 mile from river. Line of villages on high ground4½ miles from river. Good grazing; 400 inhabitants; Tukls. Littletrade. Greek merchants have collecting station during the gumseason on the left bank, which belongs to Kordofan. |
| Gum collecting station on L.B. | |||||
| El Khema | 7 | 199 | Road joins river at El Khema Police Post.Many birds and monkeys. | ||
| Abbassia Gedida (Black Colony) | 1 | 200 322 | Colony of old Sudanese soldiers. Eastbank reed strip thinner than west. | ||
| Abu Zeid | 8 | 208 333 | Abu Zeid village. Bank continues fringedby several hundred yards of reeds. Baggara Selim country begins;sparsely inhabited, with thick bush and trees behind. Good gamecountry begins | Passage only practicable at low water.The Abu Zeid ford is a most serious obstacle to navigation. At thispoint, for a length of some 4 miles, the river spreads out in abroad and extremely shallow sheet, at low Nile about 1,200 yards inwidth. Upon the bed, masses of what are called “fresh-wateroysters” collect. The broken shells form, with a shingle, a kind of“conglomerate,” almost as hard as rock, and which nothing but aspecially adapted dredger could remove. In March and April, in verylow years, the depth of water here is in places not more than 1foot 5 inches to 1 foot 8 inches. The forest is very thick on bothshores, and on the west a wide belt of swamp and grass renderslanding very difficult. The papyrus reed is first seen at thisplace, and occasional ambach. Floating patches of sudd aremet with in the channel, as well as many permanent large grassislands, the largest being those of Nuago and Musran. Hippopotamibegin to appear in considerable numbers | Police Post, east bank. Scattered treesand bush, 1 to 1½ miles in width, commence again. |
| Masran Island (N. end) | 1 | 209 | North end of island. East channel oftenmuch blocked with sudd; only a narrow passage of 50 yardsbeing visible at times. Island thickly wooded | Road keeps close to river bank. | |
| Danko Shush | 4 | 213 | Shilluk village. | ||
| Azalet Rocks | 9 | 221 | Rocks across main western channel.Dangerous at low Nile. | ||
| Danko Selim | 6 | 227 | Shilluk village on Masran Island. Rocksin middle of stream; dangerous to navigation, especially at night.Here the reef runs right across the river channel, and the onlymethod of passing safely at low water is to steer a course like theletter S. Many of the rocks are below the water surface, and theirpresence is only indicated by the ripples which they cause. | ||
| Meshra Zubeid | 4 | 231 | Meshra to Masran Island. Hence road windsthrough thick scrub, with patches of open country, to the ford atJebelein. | ||
| Masran Island (S. end) | 5 | 236 | Shilluk village at southern point.Careful navigation necessary | ||
| Jebelein | 2 | 238 383 | Two roads lead north-westwards fromopposite Jebelein to Gedid, etc. Baggara Selim live on leftbank | River about 500 yards wide; rocks showingin places. Up-stream of Jebelein, for many miles, the country ismost dreary and monotonous. A fringe of forest on either bank marksthe higher land. Between this the river winds through reedyislands, masses of swamp grass and floating weed. A series ofislands now begins. Dinka country right. | The boundary between the White Nile andUpper Nile Provinces belonging itself to the Upper Nile (Kodok)Province. Jebelein is easily recognisable by the fivepeculiarly-shaped granite peaks which rise abruptly from the plainon the eastern shore. The highest of these peaks is perhaps 600feet. The nearest is 1 mile from the river, and the farthest 3miles. They form an amphitheatre of rocky hills; two distinctmasses, with a third hill to the east of the northern mass. Grassyplain between north and south ridges. Village on east of southridge. The forest on the east bank is about a quarter of a mile inwidth, and extremely thick. Behind it stretches an endless expanseof prickly grass, some 3 feet high, interspersed with clumps ofmimosas. Lions and Tiang fairly plentiful. The soil is light andfriable, and much of it must be flooded during the rainy season.One or two ravines serve as drains to this area. The ruins of AhmedFedil’s “Deim” are still visible here. This tract once formed partof the Dinka country, but is now quite uninhabited, most of theDinkas having migrated to the south to escape the raids of theslave-traders. At this point the “serut” fly makes its firstappearance, and remains an unwelcome guest throughout the journey to Kodok. This brownfly, which is about the size of a small wasp, has a sharp stab, andif allowed to settle speedily draws blood. Not poisonous. Road 200to 400 yards from river. Massacre of Egyptian troops by Mahdists in1882. |
| ([Illustrations]) | |||||
| Meshra Sherif | 3 | 241 | Meshra and camping ground good; nameapplies to country for next 2 miles. Road runs through thickishthorn jungle; path good. | ||
| Bulli Island | 6 | 247 | North end of Bulli Island. Westernchannel 100 yards broad; eastern one bad. Narrow island 100 to 200yards wide, covered with grass and rushes | Path keeps close to east channel, whichis nearly dry in April and May. | |
| Debba[33] El Goda | 12 | 259 | Western channel bad | Sheikh’s tomb. Large range of hills west.Pointed peak about 30 miles east. Perhaps Abu Gurud (?). | |
| Gamus | 17 | 276 | South end of Bulli Island. Westernchannel about 80 yards broad. | ||
| Karshawal | 2 | 278 | Small Selim village, with old camp inland2 miles to south-east. Selim and Dinka Meshra. | ||
| Agang | 18 | 296 | Selim and Dinka villages about 3 milesinland. | ||
| Renk | 2 | 298 479 | Thick forest on both banks. From Renk toAhmed Agha there is no change in the monotony of the scenery. Thewest bank is very flat and low, and the east bank is covered withthorn jungle, plenty of trees and heavy grass | Road closes to river. Headquarters ofRenk District. Government offices and residence of BritishInspector. Good sandy meshra, open ground for camping large force.Telegraph and Post Office. Inhabitants, Dinkas and Selim Arabs, whoown sheep, goats, and the former cattle. Thick forest. Mosquitoesvery troublesome here after sunset. Action here 15.9.98. Dervish“deim” bombarded and taken, and a steamer captured. Track to Guleand Roseires branches off here (vide Vol. 2). | |
| Khor Deleib | 2 | 300 | The river is fringedwith a belt of reeds on either bank, varying from 10 to 200 yardsbroad. Thick forestboth sides. Much bird life. There is a ford across both channelshere (Ahmed Fedil crossed in 1898), but it is rarely practicableexcept at low Nile, and not always even then. Northern end of WadDakona Island; take western channel. A few Shilluk villages on thisisland formed by White Nile and Khor Gaza El Abiad. This khor athigh Nile is probably 300 to 600 yards wide, but at low Nilenowhere more than 300 yards; fordable nearly everywhere. Manywildfowl on it | Road leads south-east to KhorDeleib and runs along an eastern branch of the Nile named Gaza ElAbiad. Village of Sheikh Bakhit Niok (released slave from Cairo).South of here people mostly Selim Baggara, living in temporaryencampments: about 1 mile inland for grazing. | |
| Warrit, or Loingwin, and Dabba Dungit | 10 | 310 | |||
| Um Hedeida | 10 | 320 | Khor decreases till at Um Hedeida waterstagnant and in small quantity (February). Elephants drink hereregularly, but only at night. They pass the day about 20 milesinland in a forest of dense kittr bush which the Arabs call their“beit” or house. | Track follows eastern bank of khor.Country covered with 3 feet high grass where not burnt. Scatteredbush “Heglig” and “Hashab”; no cultivation. | |
| Water reappears in khor. Selimencampments east of track. | |||||
| Leungtom (D), or Domaia (or El Wat(A)) | 6 | 326 | South of Wad Dakona Island | Meshra. Road approaches Nile for firsttime since Renk. About 1½ miles inland are villages of Kolang ElWat under Sheikh Salem Banga (also released slave from Cairo).Country fairly open. Track follows east bank of a khor. On west oftrack is a fringe of thick “talh.” To the east country is fairlyopen. | |
| Debba El Zawia or Zawa | 5 | 331 | Dom Palms on left bank as well as onright | Two islands, western channel 80 yards;shallow at low Nile | Commencement of Nabagaia District.Island. Swamp grass and trees. First “dom” palms are met here. |
| Anok | 4 | 335 | Village of Agweim Dinkas passed about ¾mile to east on slight elevation. Thick “talh” bush on either sideof track. Village depends on river for water. | ||
| Tereiba or Allal (D) districtcommences. | |||||
| Debba Ibrahim Sharak | 9 | 344 | Shade and good water in khor. Good middaycamping ground. Jebel Ahmed Agha visible. From here on bushunpleasantly thick. Elephants and much game. | ||
| El Ragal (A) | 1 | 345 | Track branches offeast to Dinka village or district of Kash Kash (10 to 20 miles fromriver?). Bush ceases to annoy. Elephants drink here. | ||
| Senagul (D) | 4 | 349 | |||
| Debba Abu Teiba | 1 | 350 | Two main khors, Sangeir (or Ran (D)) andMesangeir (or Balantega (D)), from the Abyssinian hills near Kirin(?), join the river here. Difficult to cross July to November. | ||
| Meshra Meteima (Selim) | 2 | 352 | Meshra on left bank. | ||
| Jebel Ahmed Agha (or Biba (D)) | 1 | 353 568 | Western channel best; 70 yards. Matmardistrict commences; then Mohadan Zeraf | A solitary hill, 250 feet high and 250yards from east to west along its crest; great landmark; volcanic;a few small trees to summit; stands 2 miles from the bank. From itssummit is seen a vast tract of trees and grass broken by khors andswamps. J. Ulu and Gerauit visible 60-70 miles to the east. Nobreak in the level. Much game. Several Dinka and Selim villages inneighbourhood, but in rains the Dinkas retire inland, and the Arabsto districts north of fly limit. Dinka Sheikh Jok. Many “dom” palmsaround the Jebel. Water is obtainable from Khor Biba. It is 1 mileeast of river, which here bends south-west. About 22 milessouth-south-east of the Jebel, on the Khor Mesangeir, lies thevillage of Akorwen in a large grassy plain. There is a track up K.Rau to Awitong and several other Dinka rain villages. Thence trackgoes to J. Ulu and Gerauit, thence to Kirin or J. Jerok. | |
| Edor Gamoia. | 4 | 357 | Much game: buffalo, etc. | Shilluk village on north end of GeziraWad Beiker | Opposite this island, for about 6 miles,extends the district of Heglig or Tau. |
| Gamus | 6 | 363 | Shilluk village on the island. Thesheikh, after whom the village is named, is a refugee fromCairo. | ||
| Dabba Marbeit or Shakab | 1 | 364 | Opposite south end of Wad Beiker. A grandgame country. | ||
| Kwe | 2 | 366 | A Dinka Farik. | ||
| Alumbal | 1 | 367 | Sheikh Ajak’s village. Country round isfairly open, scattered “kittr” and “naal” grass. Both thesevillages are under Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat. Track south-eastto Akorwen, 22 miles. | ||
| ([Illustrations]) | |||||
| Meshra Zeraf | 1 | 368 | Meshra on left bank also | The meshra extends for about 2 miles, theroad skirts the river and crosses a wide shallow khor called a“farlegh” or “rigl” by the Arabs. It is said to come from nearAturuk. | |
| Rom or Um Gursan | 4 | 372 | Dinka village named Rom, under SheikhJok. The district for the next 8 miles is known by the Arabs as UmGursan. The track from Renk to here is, as a rule, excellent, butfrom here to Kaka bad; passing over hard-baked, badly crackedcotton soil. Splendid game district on both banks. | ||
| Ardeib El Miriam | 6 | 378 | Ardeib El Miriam district on westbank | District of Tereiti begins. | |
| Meshra Rom or Tereiti | 2 | 380 | Telegraph line passes here. Ageirdistrict. | ||
| Fil and Ajak Kwa El Mango. | 3 | 383 | Ageir Dinka villages. Track about 1 milefrom river. Country open with patches of bush here and there. Trackgoes further from river; at knoll called Debba Shagerab road bendswestwards and crosses a marshy (in rains) plain to Debeik, SheikhAkol’s village, about 1 mile from river opposite Kaka. | ||
| Kaka and Debeik | 11 | 391 634 | Kaka is one of a collection of Shillukvillages spread along several miles on the left bank, 400 yardsfrom the river. From this point southward, the villages on thewestern bank of the river are continuous. They cluster along theridge and behind the forest. In front of them extends a broad beltof swamp, mostly dry at low Nile, varying in width from a fewhundred yards to over a mile. Landing at any point along this reachis impossible except at low Nile. The marsh is very deep, and covered with thick grassand reeds, through which nothing but hippopotami can force theirway | Many grass islands block the riverchannel, which averages from 300 to 400 yards in width. Near Kodokthese grass islands occur in constant succession, and on the westbank a double line of Shilluk villages is to be seen—the one on theedge of the swamp, and the other further inland. Landing can onlyoccasionally be effected on either bank of the river | On the eastern bank the swamp is perhaps500 yards wide behind it the eternal belt of forest. Outside ofthis again stretches an endless plain of high grass dotted withclumps of trees. This side of the river is quite uninhabited,except by a few Shilluks who cross the river for the purpose ofhunting or fishing. Occasional big khors run into the Nile on theeastern bank. These depressions run for many miles inland, andtheir banks are covered with a thick growth of thorny trees. |
| Ajok | 8 | 397 | Skirting an open marshy (in rains) plainon right and following line of trees on left Ajok (Dinka village)is reached. Tracks now become numerous and ill-defined; the onefollowed led across an open marshy (in rains) plain to the Nile, 2miles north of Kaka Wood station. | ||
| Kurwa district | 5 | 402 | Road starts from here to Fungor (MekBosh-Nubawi) (41), and J. Gedir (71 miles). No landing place. | ||
| Kaka Old Wood Station (1902) | 2 | 404 | The river now curves to the west and thento the east | Known as Hellet El Nyam-Nyam, close toriver bank; wood station. Much game here—waterbuck, lion, cobusleucotis, &c. | |
| El Gerab | 7 | 411 | Village. Marshy banks; a few trees | The country in the bend the river formsis called Gerab El Aish (bread-bag?). | |
| Melut | 2 | 413 | Telegraph station, Government buildings,and residence of police officer. Line crosses river to west bank.Track leads from here to Kirin, on the Abyssinian frontier. | ||
| Demtemma | 3 | 416 | Shilluk village left. Sheikhs Kodak andTak | Demtemma. Small village 700 yards frombank. Headquarters of district officer. | |
| Sheikh Delal | 2 | 418 | Unapproachable by steamers at high Nile;a string of villages now extends, 1 to 2 miles inland, along thewest bank for many miles. | Sheikh Lowir (D) village two hours inlandeast. | |
| Sheikh Nyekeia | 31 | 449 | His villages extend for the next 10miles. | Floating islands frequent. Westernchannel 200 yards | Dinka villages right bank; but not sonumerous as Shilluks on left bank. |
| Kodok[34] | 10 | 669 459 738 | Up narrow backwater on leftbank. Position 9° 53′ longitude, 32° 8′ latitude. Height, accordingto Austin, 1,360 feet. Date palms. At low Nile a steamer cannot getup the backwater, and has to discharge on the east bank of thepeninsula forming the backwater. The latter has then to be crossedin boats. Headquarters of the Province. Telegraph station and postoffice. Government buildings, brick stores, zincroofed. Nativevillage 600 yards to west, with a few shops, where smallrequirements, such as sardines, cigarettes, etc., can be purchased.Trade goods popular in these parts can be procured here. Garrisonof two companies. Marchand’s garden, etc., kept up. His expeditionarrived here June, 1898; attacked twice by Dervishes. Anglo-Egyptian expedition arrived 10.9.98. French evacuated December,1898. Was in the old days a considerable trading station. Climateunhealthy July to October. Millions of mosquitos. | Country on each bank open grassy plain,with bunches of big trees, resembling a park | A track leads south from opposite Kodokto Uryong on the Sobat, about 40 miles. Three wells at Dunjol, 13miles south. Open grassy country most of the way, up to within 7miles of Uryong, when thick thorn bush continues to the river. |
| Scattered Dinka villages atintervals. | |||||
| Lul | 18 | 477 | Austrian Roman Catholic Mission Station.Flourishing garden on bank. Station 600 yards inland. Staff ofabout five fathers and three sisters. | ||
| Taufikia | 34 | 511 822 | Station second in importance in U.N.Province. Headquarters of a Sudanese battalion; 300 inhabitants;Mamur; deleib and dom palms, also acacias; Old Government postunder Ismail. Sir S. Baker’s headquarters in 1865, etc.; “Baker’sTree” still remains. Fairly healthy site, but little trade. Countryin rear marshy, but never flooded. White ants bad. Good landingplace. Proposed site for a dockyard (1904). | ||
| Sobat River [The river between the Sobat mouth and Lake No has not yet beenaccurately surveyed. The figures given in this portion must,therefore, be accepted with caution.] | 5 | 516 830 | Village left opposite junction. SheikhLuong | River channel bends gradually due west.Average breadth at Low Nile 150 to 300 yards. Numerous islands andbackwaters in places | Mouth of River Sobator Bahr El Asfar. Yellow river, 80 to 150 yards wide; well definedbanks; current of cream-coloured water three miles per hour. Almostat the junction, on the left bank of the Sobat, is the (deserted)fort built in 1898. This point was reached from Abyssinia by Colonel Artomonoff andMessrs. Faivre and Potter ten days before the Marchand missionpassed (vide [p. 141]). Seven miles up theSobat on its north bank, and six miles across southwards fromTaufikia, is the American Protestant Mission Station of Tatûg orDeleib (amid a grove of deleib palms “tuga”). Flourishing. Shillukneighbourhood. |
| Finidawi | — | — | The left bank is still studded with achain of Shilluk villages standing about a mile from the river. Theintervening space is covered with long grass, but open in places,with stunted solitary trees. Much game. | ||
| ([Illustrations]) | |||||
| Khor Attar | 1 | 517 | Wooding station; good landing place;swampy inland. Khor running in from due south. Trees and grass,ambach, &c. | ||
| Tonga | 4 | 521 | East end of Tonga Island begins. Verylow; annually covered by the flood. Width from one to two anda-half miles. At low Nile the channel separating it from themainland is dry at the western end. The eastern part of thischannel is termed the River Lolle or Fanakama. At its eastern endit is 80 yards broad and about three feet deep (in April); it isdoubtful whether it is a river at all; but it has been reported tocome from the Nuba hills. It was explored by Marno in 1880 forabout 32 miles, and by Colonel Sparkes in 1899 for about 28 miles(stopped by sudd). A branch from the Lolle forms the western partof the channel referred to. | ||
| Gabt El Megahid | 5 | 526 | Formerly a base camp for sudd cuttingparties. | ||
| Shakwa El Shilkawi | 5 | 531 | Shilluk villages—group. | ||
| Bahr El Zeraf | 16 | 547 880 | Western end of Tonga Island | Mouth of the Bahr El Zeraf; 38 yardsbroad; little or no current; 19 feet deep (low Nile). | |
| Maya Signora | 53 | 600 | A large lagoon (explored by M’lle. Tinné(Dutch) in 1863), over 500 yards wide, extending for some distancealongside the river. Likely place for sudd to collect. Connectswith Bahr El Jebel, 13 miles up stream of Lake No. | ||
| Lake No | 12 | 612 985 | Entrance to Lake No. Mouth of the Bahr ElJebel. For description of Lake No vide [p. 165.] | ||
RECAPITULATORY TABLE OF DISTANCES.
| Intermediate. | From Omdurman. | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Miles. | Kilometres. | Miles. | Kilometres. | |
| J. Auli | 28 | 45 | 28 | 45 |
| Geteina | 55 | 88 | 55 | 88 |
| J. Arashkol | 54 | 86 | 109 | 175 |
| Dueim | 16 | 26 | 125 | 201 |
| Aba Island | 38 | 61 | 163 | 262 |
| Fachi Shoya | 13 | 21 | 176 | 283 |
| Goz Abu Guma | 16 | 26 | 192 | 309 |
| Abu Zeid | 16 | 26 | 208 | 333 |
| Jebelein | 30 | 48 | 238 | 383 |
| Renk | 60 | 96 | 298 | 479 |
| J. Ahmed Agha | 55 | 89 | 353 | 568 |
| Kaka | 41 | 66 | 394 | 634 |
| Demtemma | 22 | 35 | 416 | 669 |
| Kodok | 43 | 69 | 459 | 738 |
| Taufikia | 52 | 84 | 511 | 822 |
| Sobat River | 5 | 8 | 516 | 830 |
| Bahr El Zeraf | 31 | 50 | 547 | 880 |
| Lake No | 65 | 105 | 612 | 985 |