Inhabitants.The village of Um Dibban and all the country as far as Wad Abu Saleh used to be under El Taib Abd El Salem, the Sheikh of El Soba. Owing to their having joined the Mahdi, the Sheikh of El Obeid family have risen in importance and acquired a certain jurisdiction over the country east of Um Dibban.

A few Batahin were met with as far as El Giseima, after that practically all were Shukria or those living with that tribe, as far as the left bank of the Atbara.

Grazing.There is excellent tree grazing as far as El Giseima, and after that the supply of grass is so great that one can understand how the enormous flocks and herds subsisted, that the Shukria claim to have possessed in their palmy days.

The grass seen was never more than 3 feet high. It is not burnt.

Cultivation.An immense area is capable of growing good crops of dura if the rains are favourable.

Game.There is practically nothing to shoot at this season (January) between the Blue Nile and a few miles of the Atbara.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum North——Starting E. from theArtillery Lines at Khartoum N., a well marked track is soon struck,which continues up the Blue Nile cutting off corners where itbends. It passes the village of Kuku (whence a track leads toSheikh El Amin and afterwards rejoins this route), the two villagesof Gereif, where there is some cultivation, and at about 12 milesthe village of Um Dom. At about 19 miles, after passing some lowmounds covered with frequent fragments of stone and brick, said tobe the remains of Old Soba, the road bifurcates and the branch tothe left is taken, a clearly marked track. For the first few milesthe path passes through thinly scattered trees, which gradually getthicker, till at 23 miles they restrict the view in any directionto 200 or 300 yards. At 25½ miles a well is passed on the right ofthe road, and at 27 miles Um Dibban is reached. This is a scatteredbut well-built mud village on perfectly flat ground, from which allvegetation has been removed for a radius of 1,000 to 1,500yards.
Old Soba1919
Um Dibban827
It was formed by a holy man named SheikhEl Obeid, who established a school and caused a tank to be dug. Hisdescendants still live there and keep up the school, but they nowhave hankerings after temporal power.
The Sheikh El Obeid family and followerswere early and fanatical adherents of the Mahdi, and it was inattempting to surprise them that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his forceswere cut to pieces in 1884.
There are two wells about 112 feet deep,one inside, and the other 200 yards W. of the S.W. corner ofvillage.
The inhabitants belong to various tribes;many have land on the Blue Nile, and some cultivate land to theE.
Wad Badrub (Wad Agid)4¼31¼The road starts slightly N. of E., andgenerally traverses a thin forest of thorny trees, not thick enoughreally to impede troops, but necessitating a little dodging hereand there. At 4¼ miles it passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to be 140feet deep, belonging to Um Dibban. About 200 yards further on, andagain after 4 more miles, dry tanks were passed.
The track maintains a general directionof a little N. of E., but constantly makes considerable changes forshort distances.
Wad Hedeibab7¾39Well.
Um Sideira746Well.
450A dry tank in the Elwan district ispassed. There is said to be a well of the same name 2 miles to theS.E. This district originally belonged to the Shukria, but is nowoccupied by the Batahin.
The country soon becomes more open and aconsiderable extent, perhaps 600 or more feddans of dura,cultivated by the Batahin was passed.
El Ereigib555There are some wells (which were out ofrepair; January 1901) and several dry tanks, and one with waterabout 1 mile N.E. Plenty of fair sized trees.
A small number of Mesellemia Arabs,Sheikh Mahi, were there. They were originally under the Shukria,but during the Mahdia came under Sheikh El Obeid.
Another rather shorter route is fromKhartoum N. to El Ereigib, viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well,thence passing two lots of salt works to the village of ElMelaha (13 miles), large tank, plenty of water (January,1901), thence to a second village of El Melaha (2½ miles),salt well, thence to a deep but good well at Elwan (22½miles), and total distance to El Ereigib (4 miles) is 53½miles.
Wadi Sereria6½6½The country soon becomes more open,several tanks are passed. At 3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well 250feet deep, marked by some small but well built mud houses in goodpreservation, said to belong to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾ mileto the left is a tank, said to hold the largest supply of water inthe neighbourhood. The country now becomes more and more bare oftrees, and more ground fit for cultivation is seen. At 6½ milessome Batahin crops are passed, and the Wadi Sereria flowing S. iscrossed. A well belonging to the Mesellemia is said to be close athand on left. At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ Wad Hassuna toRufaa is crossed. No water along it except tanks.
El Giseima[10]4½66A tank about 100 feet in diameter onrather high ground surrounded by a few trees, 2 feet of water init, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on, no trees are seen till Rera isreached, except where belts of “kittr” bushes mark the lines ofWadis or a small clump of thorn trees shows the position of a tank;firewood should be provided for.
Wadi Abu Sueid470The absence of treesenables one to see far over the wide plains, mostly of arable soiland covered at this season with dry “Mahareib” and “Hamra” grass.At 4 miles, an unusually pronounced drainage line said to come fromAbu Deleig is crossed. The upper part is called Wadi Abu Sueid andthe lower Wadi Hasit, said to be much cultivation along it, butnone was seen. Thence across a gravelly plateau from which 4 milesfurther on Geili hill can be seen. At 76th mile road descends shortslope to Astaneit tank, dry, no wood, water, nor good grazing.
Astaneit676
Khor Dengalia480From here on toGeili, the road generally makes for the hill. The main trackprobably avoids Astaneit tank, leaving it to the right. At 80thmile the Khor Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi Nail, and half milefurther on the Wadi Ankia are crossed, all flowing south. 5½ milesfurther on the N. end of the Geili hill was reached. The best placeto halt is ½ mile further on at the S.E. end, where a huge fallenboulder affords good shade for two or three persons. It has anancient carving in Egyptian style on the side nearest thehill.
Wadi Nail484
Wadi Ankia½84½
Geili690½
J. Geili is a granite outcrop about 250feet high, rising out of a gentle elevation in the plain. On E. andS. are some low knolls enclosing a small open space, in which thewells now most used are situated. There are said to be about thirtywells round the hill, varying in depth from 50 to 100 feet,yielding an unfailing supply of water; some grass near but nofirewood. The only path up the hill is from the N., and even therenailed boots must be taken off.
From the summit a good view is obtained.Near the top on some level ground is a place shown as the tomb ofthe “Bint El Mek,” the daughter of one of the Fung Kings, whomarried Sheikh El Din one of the early Shukria Sheikhs.
From Geili there are two roads to UmRueishid, one of which viâ J. El Daein makes a considerable detour.It starts on a bearing of about 66° from true N. straight for J. ElDaein, passing over good soil nearly all the way, several hundredfeddans of which appear to have been cultivated (1901). The groundis much cracked and off the path, the going is bad.
J. El Daein22112½Two small hills of which the southern isthe higher. There is a tank, now dry, at its foot on W. side, Hamlatook 8 hours, going well.
Um Ukheita14½127The track now turns slightly S. of E. andcontinues over good soil rather bare of grass to Um Ukheita, a tanknow dry, on a slight stony rise. Hamla about 5 hours. From here onto Um Rueishid the ground is covered with angular stones, and thegoing very bad. Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles J. Rera is seen tothe S.E., and the track makes fairly straight for it, leaving onthe right the group of small hills known as El Nawasla. At 6¼ milesthe track descends a gentle slope, and bends up to the N. to thewell of Um Rueishid.
The more direct road, which would appearto be the best in every way, runs nearly due E. over a “Nal” grasscovered plain devoid of bush, therefore also of shade and firewood,to Sofeiya El Wata (23 miles) a large tank (dry January, 1901),where there is excellent shade for a small party. From here to UmRueishid (20 miles), track traverses similar country, though it isoccasionally stony. J. Um Betikh is passed to the S. of thetrack.
Um Rueishid8¼135¼This well is said to be 30 or 35 feetdeep. It is situated on bare stony ground. A dry tank lies ½ mileto the S. There are a few small thorn bushes S. of well, but thereis very little shade and little grazing, and it is altogetherrather an unpleasant halting place.
From Um Rueishid there is a track viâ ElSofeiya and Dimiat to Asubri. It seems the most direct linepossible, vide description below.
The route followed after about 1 mile of stonyplain strikes a well marked track on good cultivable soil, andmakes straight for J. Rera.
At 1½ miles it crosses the Wadi Jerrabaflowing S., and 6 miles W. Rahad, and at 11 miles the W. Kananflowing N. All are flat depressions with cracked soil and marked bylines of “kittr” bushes. Parts of their courses are cultivated. At18 miles, track enters ground strewn with quartz pebbles, andcovered with grass which continues as far as Rera.
Rera22¼157½Hamla 9½ hours. The Rera hills consist ofthree rocky ridges almost in line, running E. and W. and some lowsubsidiary elevation; S. of the centre ridge is a well and a drywater hole. Immediately to the S. of the W. end of the eastern andhighest ridge are more wells now in use. On the N. side of theshort and low pass that leads to these wells from the N. is a deepdry tank. Before the Mahdia immense flocks and herds used to waterhere. In the eastern and highest ridge are several rock tankscontaining water.
From Rera a road goes viâ Dimiat toAsubri. It is more direct and better marked than the one followed,but was not taken as the rock tanks at Dimiat were said to be dry(January, 1900). The eastern ridge is not difficult to ascend andcommands a good view. The natives say J. Kassala can be seen fromit on a fine day during the rains. Variation of prismatic compassabout 3½° W.
There is no marked track for the first 5miles towards El Sadda, and the going is bad over pebbles andthrough long grass.
After that a well marked track isreached, which continues the rest of the way.
Wadi Atiam7154½At 7 miles, the Wadi Atiam is passedflowing N. It goes to El Sofeiya, and as far again beyond it diesaway. Much cultivation along it. From 7 to 9½ miles the road israther bad and stony till it has passed the Atash hills by a shortand easy gap, and enters an open plain which extends to ElSadda.
Several tanks are passed on the right,known as El Farsh. Hamla 9½ hours.
El Sadda25½180There are several wells here about ½ mileW. of S. end of J. El Sadda, a low ridge running N. and S. The onewell visited was said to be 70 to 80 feet deep. Plenty of grass,but no trees nor firewood. On the N. and W. of the hill and closeto its foot are a number of circular stone mounds neatly built,which appear to be tumuli, and probably date from a time anteriorto the present inhabitants. The two biggest are immediately underthe highest point. From here to the Atbara there is no track and nowater. Bushes mark the drainage lines, otherwise the plains arebare of all but grass. Much of the ground is cracked andconsequently bad going. The route followed eventually struck thewell marked track made by the Dervishes from Dimiat, and kept alongit to Asubri. At 2½ miles from Asubri the main road along the leftbank of the Atbara is crossed. Soon after, the track descends intothe broken ground which fringes both banks of the Atbara to a widthof 2 or more miles. The actual banks at Asubri are 15 to 20 feethigh and 300 yards apart. Crocodiles are plentiful. The ford inJanuary, 1901 was 120 yards long and 2½ feet deep.
Asubri (R. Atbara)57237Hamla took 19 hours from El Sadda. A niceshady camp on right bank for a very small party. Mosquitos few, butparticularly poisonous.
Asubri is the name of a strip of landextending for some miles along both banks of the Atbara. On theleft bank, near the ford, is an old cemetery, and ½ mile S. is abuilding formerly occupied by Abdel Rahim Wad Abu Dugal, theDervish Emir in command of their post here in 1897 and early in1898.
On leaving camp, the track winds in andout of khors and up gentle slopes through bushes, till at 2 or 3miles it emerges on to the plain, which is of good soil coveredwith scattered bush. The general direction is straight for J.Kassala.
At about 6 miles the track from Suweihiljoins in on the right, and from this on, the road is well marked.Many ariel and gazelle, and a few ostriches seen.
Um Siteiba21258At 21 miles, Um Siteiba, commonly calledhalf way is passed. Here is a large natural pond for about 4 monthsin the rains, but now dry. Serut fly bad when there is waterhere.
About 6 miles from Kassala, the trackturns N.E. and traverses more thickly wooded country, till itreaches the bed of the Gash, now dry, some 700 yards wide,immediately beyond which lies the old town of Kassala.
Kassala17275The old name, Taka, may now be regardedas obsolete. The former town is a complete ruin, of which nothingremains except the circular bastions. The new town has been builtclose by the S.E. and consists largely of Tukls. The Fort, built bythe Italians, is just E. of the N. end of the old town.
Telegraph lines from Suakin, Massawa, andKhartoum viâ Gedaref meet here.
UM RUEISHIDviâ SOFEIYA to ASUBRI.
Khartoum, N.——
Um Rueishid—135¼From Um Rueishid where the ground is verystony, the track which is well defined, starts at a bearing of 112°from true N., and very soon K. Abu Jerraba is crossed flowing N.,it is said to eventually unite with the Wadi Khasa.
Wadi Khasa7½142¾There are signs of a good deal ofcultivation along this wadi.
J. Um El Gurud1½144¼J. Um El Gurud, a low rocky hill about ¼mile long is passed about 1¾ miles to S. and 3 miles further onSheikh
Sh. Naim’s Tomb1½145¾Naim’s tomb,conspicuous on top of a gentle slope, is passed on N. side of theroad. Open bushless grass country continued until nearing ElSofeiya, where scattered bush and granite rocks appear. There aresome forty wells here, though water supply decreases considerablyin the dry season, they vary from 50 to 100 feet in depth.
El Sofeiya9½155¼
15½170¾The people here, who are Shukria underSh. Ahmed Mohamed Abu Sin, live in tents made of matting; there areno permanent buildings of any sort, and the encampments are smalland scattered. The direct road to Kassala, which is difficult totrace for the first mile or so after leaving the wells, soonbecomes well defined, having been much used during the Mahdia, andleads over open flat grassy land from J. Gurun, which it leavesabout 2½ miles to the S. Khors Royan (7 miles) and Atshan (11½miles) being crossed en route, flowing N.
Wadi Giref6½177¼J. Giref is passed about 3 miles N. oftrack and Wadi Giref is crossed about a mile further on.
From here to J. Dimiat is about 15 miles,Wadi Girgoja being crossed at about half way.
J. Dimiat15192¼A granite hill about 100 feet high. Thereis a natural tank about half way up, inaccessible for camels, whichafter a good rainy season contains water till the end of January,but is not to be relied on. There is a certain amount of laot busharound the base of the Jebel, which serves as firewood, and somedetached boulders give shade for a small party.
Ogba El Bagar18210¼From here to the Atbara valley about 33miles there is no bush, with the exception of two thin belts calledOgba El Bagar about 5 miles apart.
7½217¾The road bifurcates, one to Gandaua, Sh.Omara Abu Sin’s village on the Atbara, the other is the Dervishtrack to Asubri. The route taken (January, 1901) was neither, butdirection lay for 3 miles S.E., and then due E. through scatteredbush to edge of plateau.
Edge of Plateau8½226¼From this point Jebels Kassala, AbuGamel, &c., are plainly visible. Also are several small hillssome 10 miles to the S. and S.W. named Bereirob and El Gatar,whilst J. Leinun is visible a similar distance to the N.
Asubri2¼228½The road now descends a khor by easygradients to the bed of the Atbara at the well known Meshra ofAsubri.

15.—GOZ REGEB to SHENDI viâ ABU DELEIG.

By Captain W. A. Boulnois, April, 1900.

General Remarks. Road.From Goz Regeb, a ruined town of mud houses almost entirely deserted to Sheg el Walia, there is no track, and the country is bare till within 30 miles of Sheg. Hence to Geleita there is a badly defined track and none from Geleita to Abu Deleig. From the latter to Shendi the track is well defined most of the way, and there seems to be a considerable amount of traffic; parties bringing dura from Rufaa to Shendi, and one party from Metemma with goods to sell in Abu Deleig market were met.