67.—RUMBEK across NAAM to AWODI.

By Captain E. H. Armstrong, February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Rumbek——
66First 1½ hoursE.S.E., same as Shambe road, then ¾ mile S.E. through burnt villageof Adole, and along N. of M’Bure Makwoj, then S.W. through scrubbytrees and low marshy ground to khor with pool and twowells, 1¼ hours more. From there road S. along E. of khor,which has bamboo in it, for 1½ hours; cross khor, and after ½ hourreach Malit, whichis close to khor, and has wells and pools in rains. Malit occupiesa large extent of country, but very few houses in it. Apparentlydifferent portions of the village have their own names, such asMabei and Mading.
28
412
Malit (wells)820
Well222From there road to Iyen, S.E., cross khoragain, distance 2 miles; plenty of water both in khor and one well.Iyen joins villages of Ateru and Damadar, which extend from it inS.S.E. direction. The cattle mera of all these villages is calledTenit, and much difficulty is experienced in making enquiries aboutdistrict, as any of the above names may be used for the district.The Jurs are close to Malit, on S.W. side. Beyond Mading arefollowing villages, or parts of villages, in S. direction,viz.:—Feniar, M’Bure-atit, Lair-achetit, Fanagir, Makur, Panicho,and Rumbel (?). I have not been to them, but the above is the orderof position from N. to S.
426From Ateru road toRiver Naam direction slightly N.E., passing through, after 1 hour,villages of Paniol and Matiang, both burnt to the ground. NaamRiver reached after 3 hours, the forest approaching within 1½ hoursof river. From there road E., across valley to forest on E. side.River here winds very much, and is close to trees on E. bank. Trackacross plain, rough, and in summer is entirely under water.
River Naam632
436
541From here southerlyroad was taken along edge of forest for ½ hour, then through forestextending out W. towards river; road good. After another ½ hourpass through burnt village of Awog. Here road turns slightlywestward on to old Fort Ayak, another 1½ hours. Fort in goodposition, overlooking river, which then passes quite closeunderneath; level of fort about 20 feet above river. Site seemsvery good, but natives say a great deal more rain falls than atRumbek. Ditch and parapet still in good order; fort square shaped,sides about 300 by 400 yards. Road from here starts S.E., after ½hour S., over red sandstone, with steep descent to river, and alongedge of forest S. (river here bends away to W.) to cattle mera atedge of forest, which here again juts out in point and is close toriver; distance from Ayak, 2½ hours. Half an hour further back, atre-entering angle of forest, is road, E. and then S.E., to villageof Awao, 1 hour from river valley. From Billing, in anotherdirection, S.E. then S., along edge of forest and close to river,with steep rocky banks, very similar to road ½ hour S. of Ayak.After 1 hour from village is road to left, to village of Awao, ¼hour distant. Large village with cattle and sheep mera at S. end.(Road S., along river, continues close to edge of forest for 13more miles, to khor where cattle were captured by late MajorHunter.)
Fort Ayak445
853
356
157
Lam966From Awao road dueE., over steep rocky hill, and onward over high ground, in placesboggy, to village Lam, 3 hours. Valley S. of road and of Awao growsmuch bamboo. Lam is a small village; rain-water pools along road insummer. Village of Awodi 1 hour further on; large village extendingE. and N. from above road. At N. end zeriba and tobacco plantation;about ten deep wells, 3 miles more.
369
Awodi372
577From here party wassent out N.E., and found so-called River Laik, then dry; no waterfound even by digging, but I fancy the natives know where to findwater. This is the same watercourse as the M’Buri of Feniar, onShambe road; it is about 5 miles N.E. of Awodi, and 6 miles furtherE. is village of Rumbel; no water found there. Probably theinhabitants during dry season migrate with their cattle to RiverDok or Lau.
683

68.—RUMBEK to MANGI’S VILLAGE.

By Col.-Sergeant Boardman, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Rumbek——Marched from Rumbekon 11th February, through Runga (Jurs) S.W., then W.S.W. to wells,across Khor Abeir. Pretty spot under high trees, several largemongoose at well. Halted ½ mile further on, country open andpark-like. General direction S.W., country open forest and wasteground, then up steep hill into forest. Halted for ten minutes atwell.
Khor Abeir77
Sheikh Kali’s1118On to Sheikh Kali’s,a neat village, 13 houses round a tree, Gemmeiza el Beit. Bamboogrowing all around. Water obtained from wells. Road continues S.W.and S. for one hour, and S.E. for half an hour, ground sloping S.across successive belts of bamboo, open ground, and somewhat openforest; then S. and S.W. over ridge to village of Sheikh Gol, ThenS.W. 1 mile across low ground. At 8 miles, road to Chums, S.W. Roadcontinues S. along deleib valley for about 11 miles—many deleibpalms, open forest, some large trees—across two small khors. Pastburnt zeriba, Gol; merchant named Kayali on river, after 10 miles.Ground in deleib plain slopes W. to Khor Gulma. Moved on S. andS.E., skirting Khor Gulma, then smaller khor on W. of it, andhalted at Sheikh Ding. Then S.W. 2 miles through thin forest andvillage, and on slightly S. to village of Sheikh Ri; halted justbeyond in forest. Water about a mile N.E. From here marched S.through forest, villages, and across three khors; after one hourdura of Sheikh Marain (Wakil of Ri), and his village (from herevillage of Moinyeng about 20 miles N.E.). At first ground slopingto E., but after village crossed low ridge.
Khor Gulma1331
Sheikh Ding (Wakil of Gol)132
Sheikh Ri537
Sheikh Marain4½41½
Sheikh Dogbei13½55Continued S. 1 mile,then W. and S.W. along low ground for one and a half hours, then S.and S.E. for another one and a half hours; road continues S. for 2½miles more, crossing low ground. Halted E. of water. Inthree places on march low ground must be marshy in rains. ContinuedE. for 2 miles, then E. and N.E. for 1 mile along N. of khor,ground sloping from S. to N. through forest and village, then E.for 1 mile to dura of Sheikh Dogbei; water found on N. near road,then S.E. to more dura and few houses, on through village S. towells; halted under tree on rising ground. Then S.W. for 1 milealong edge of forest, and W. for 1½ miles, round N. of kopje, thenS. across low ground; here road continues S, W. and W. for 1½ milesround rocky hills, along side of forest, and close to (W. of)another khor, then strikes S., across khor to wells, called villageof Sheikh Kolli, but village deserted long ago. Indifferent water,but near the surface, and frequented by game.
Sheikh Kolli (deserted village)560
Village of Sheikh Abui565Continued S.W. for 1mile, and 2 miles W. and S.W., over high open ground at first, thento left through forest, on S.W. for ½ mile, passing rocky hill,right-handed, then W. for 1 mile, passing other rocky hills,left-handed, which overlook valley to W., S. and E., the highest is80 to 100 feet above ridge itself; high ground N., and on R. slopesin wooded ridges to W. and sheer S. Village of Abui N. and W.,raided by Nyam Nyams. Halted at tobacco plantation. Water in holesin rocks, plentiful and excellent. From rocky ridge excellent viewto W., showing successive banks of trees running S.E. to N.W., thenS. and N.,. representing lines of khors and rivers, or theirtributaries. Then back to two tukls of Sheikh Abui, and continuedW. and S.W., passing through belt of fine trees on to village(Khartan) and across khor. From here S. and S.E., passing a patchof flat rocks through forest, then S. and S.W., up rising ground,through open forest, and S.W. for 1 mile; W. for 1 mile, and thenS.W. again. Continued W. and S.W.,. over high ground, at first openforest, then clump of fine trees, gradually to S., scrubby forestand much burnt. Then S. down to dry khor with high grass, whichapparently runs W. into River Roa or Gell. Water in pools to E. andW.
R. Roa or Gell1378
583Crossed khor S. and then S.W. After 2miles of burnt and open forest, crossed khor running S.E. and N.W,and after 4 miles came to belt of high trees, some of the large leaf kind,here the ground becomes low and covered with high grass on R. Guidetook us round N. side of it, and brought us to river more than twohours earlier than was expected. Here we found there was no road.Guide had taken wrong road, had to find way back, S.E. and E.,through high grass, then along path through forest to S., and thenhalted for information. Could get none, went on without hamla andfound spot by river and sent for hamla.
Continued S.W. and then S., along edge offorest; on the left hand river several times came close, rockybanks and pretty, plain on R. varying in breadth, according towhether spurs of high ground and forest run out into it, or whetherjoined by flat grassy khors; crossed several small ones on riverbank, and came to a pool in khor; halted for 15 minutes.Continued across similar ridge of forest burnt in places, then cameto another big pond in khor; direction of march still S.
1194Moved along E. ofpond and found the khor which runs from E. to W.; deep channel ofwater with broken muddy banks, crossed it a little higher up byfilling in with grass and branches; mules and all crossed easily.From there road slightly W. of S., across similar ridges, crossingone broad dry khor, halted on ridge 300 yards fromriver; crossed Khor-el-Said and continued across spur of hillcovered with burnt forest for 3 miles; direction S. and slightly W.of S., then came on khor running S. and S.E.; turned left along itand came on bend of river; rocky bed with cataract, rocks cut intolong channels by flow of water, banks steep, high grass on farside. Had to unload animals and pass over everything by hand, rivernearly bridged by rocks, but very uneven. Marched on again, goingW., through high grass till meeting track after ½ mile, then S.along side of ridge with spurs running down to river, sometimessmall open plain near river. After another mile passed over oldzeriba of Abu Samat (1½ miles after crossing river). On in samedirection, and struck river again near khor, pretty spot; then onacross open low ground to another spur on which we halted. Riverruns S.E. from here. Continued S.W.W. into dense forest, partlyburnt, no track; crossed spurs of two ridges with small sandy khorsin valleys.
599
5104
8½112½Then marched S.W. along a ridge for onehour and a quarter; ground here slopes down E., with thick belt oftress on a hill about 3 miles E., then over deep sandy khor uprocky hill. Continued S. up steep hill, view all round; high ridgescovered with large trees; after 1 mile went down to valley, crosseddeep rocky khor, little water in pool. Khor going W. to N.E.Continuing S., crossed valley and camped on high tableland;water in khor below.
Marched again S., and after quarter of anhour reached a deep narrow khor; halted and cut away banks to crossanimals; water in pool to E. (left). Continued S., crossed widegrassy khor after 1 mile going W. to E., then one hour over highrocky ground with tall grass; thin forest; crossed small khor (W.to E.), then low ground with tall grass and thick shrubs. Strikingold track of Nyam Nyams, very indistinct, marched S. of W. for 1mile over rising ground and through thick forest, then S.W.,passing end of deep gorge which runs E.; lost track and marchedS.W. over rocky ridge, crossed two small sandy khors about 50 yardsapart, running parallel S.W. to N.E. Continued S.W.S., crossedgorge after 1 mile, then fairly level ground, rocky. Again strucktrack and followed it; ground drops to the E. Continued S.W., andafter half hour crossed a wide khor, tall grass, running W. to E.Two mountains, Angaliri, in Bongo country, can be seen about 40miles E. of here.
Mount Yara, Khor Mugei16½129Continued S.W. alongrocky ridge, went down to Khor Mugei, water running N.E. to S.W.This khor is about 12 yards wide with tall grassy plain each side,and apparently drains hills over which I passed during the day andruns into River Leizi. Thick forest nearly the whole way. MountYara, a large hump-shaped mountain, covered with trees, about 2miles across khor S.W.W. Halted here for the night. Marched in themorning S., along E. side of khor, for half hour through tall grassand few bushes, then S.S.E. for half hour, ridges to left (E.).After 4 miles turned W. of S. over ridge, thickly covered withlarge trees,undergrowth burnt, 5½ miles; then down to valley, very open groundcovered with burnt grass and large ant hills, with dry khor incentre; valley about 1½ miles wide, several large trees. Mts.Angaliri can be seen from here N.E. Carriers say they are near (60miles N.E. of) Hmadi. Continuing S. struck path going S.W.,followed it along valley, crossed khor, dry, and marching throughtall grass came to River Leizi, narrow, high banks, overhung bytrees, dry at ford; crossed and entered village of Sheikh Sango(slaves of Nyam Nyams), wakil of Sheikh Agadamba, who is underSultan Mangi. Here natives bolted; village stands on rise andfairly open ground. Tribe Homr from Babikr.
River Leizi, Sheikh Sango11140
Sheikh Agadamba10½150½Marched again and crossed khor, then overslight rise; burnt forest of young trees. Met party from SheikhAgadamba; crossed khor running W. to E., little water, ground dropsto E., large ridge in distance S. of E., then over slight rise,small forest, and crossed small khor (W. to E.); then over spur ofhill and came to wells, open ground with young lulu trees.Continued S.S.W. over steep hill covered with thick forest intovalley, fairly open; crossed khor, little water, over small rise,another small khor (W. to E.), then through dense forest S.,crossing rocky khor and, turning E., entered village of SheikhAgadamba, tribe Geate, from near Yambio, slaves of Mangi (son ofYambio); passed through village and camped on Khor Reishindabeyond, 10½ miles, running S.W. to N.E. into River Leizi (nativesinform me that River Leizi runs into River Merridi (Gell or Roa.))Sheikh Bangi, son of Mangi, from Kawa village Reisha, two days S.E.from here, tribe Abakas, came in here and does not seem verywilling to give information. Continued W. through village, housesscattered in the thick of forest, and one house cannot be seen fromanother.
B’bonga Khor Zaza11161½Turning S. crossed Khor Reishinda (S.W.to N.E.), then over rise, young forest, dense undergrowth, slopesW. towards khor; ridges in distance (W.). Forest thickens as weadvance, several small open spaces. Continuing S.W., passed oldvillage of Sheikh Agadamba, M’bagi; met party sent from Mangi;reached Khor M’bagi, water running from W. and bends S.E. MountM’bagi 3 miles E. from here, cone-shaped and rocky mountain, fewtrees, about 100-150 feet above ridge. Continuing S., passed footW. of Mt. Umbumbamba, oval-shaped and few large trees on crest,about 150 feet high; then over ridge W. of S. past dura fields,crossed rocky (granite) ridge W. of E. named Parkpe, and halted onoutskirts of village B’bonga near Khor Zaza, rocky khor runningN.E. to S.W. into River Ibba, little water in rocky pools;inhabitants of village recently moved E.; ridges of trees to E. andW.
River Ibba4165½Continued S. and crossed Khor Zaza, on toridge, thick forest continuing W. of S.; after half hour groundslopes E. to khor about 200 yards wide, thick weeds. Path runsparallel with khor, high ridges the far side(E.). Continued S.W.over high rocky ridge down to bend of River Ibba, 40 yards widehere, sandy bottom, winding in S.S.W. direction.
Marched S.W. over ridge and came uponriver again, after crossing open ground in valley. River here bendsN.W.W., banks very steep, about 3 feet deep, and 12 yards wide; aswing bridge crosses river here from N. bank to a tree on S. bank.Unloaded and cut away banks to cross, as bridge does not appearvery secure. Crossed and camped on S. side in hollow open plain,with cliffs about 40 feet high running parallel with and about 300yards from river. Tall grass which I burnt before camping. Climbedcliff and obtained following view:—i.e., Mts. M’bagi andUmbumbamba stand out very clearly N.E., with ridges of treesrunning W. to E. and N. to S. River winds towards N.W., with grassyplain on either bank, skirted on N. bank by forest, S. bank bycliff and forest. View S.E. obstructed by trees.
Khor Mungongo, Sheikh Tum7½173Marched on E. along foot of cliff for 1mile, then unloaded and climbed cliffs. Continued S.W. over ridge,young forest; after 15 minutes an old deserted village of SheikhAgadamba. Path to Yango (E.) from here; for half an hour throughvillage, then down to Khor Bendawari, very marshy, about 200 yardswide, tall weeds; then along edge of khor S.S.W. for half hour,ground rising on far side of khor (E.). Khor then bends S.W., andpath turns S. across it and enters forest of largetrees, lulu type,undergrowth burnt; marched through forest S.W., several openspaces; then through thin forest and down to W. over fairly openground, and crossed Khor Mungongo and camped on far side at 8.45a.m. near village of Sheikh Tum, Wakil of Mangi tribe Agbea. Wenton alone to village named after Sheikh, found very little water inwell, houses scattered and very thickly populated, so decided tocamp at khor and await messenger. Sheikh Zumio, son of Mangi,village Mazura between Khors Korsi and Mukongo, near village(deserted) Penio—tribes Baminda and Abunangi—came in; his districtruns from River Ibba, below Penio, and W. along Benza’s district;seems very intelligent, and says he is anxious to be friendly togovernment.
Marched S.W. up slope of hill, then E.round E. side of Mts. Bandilia, high rocky mountains covered withshort grass, then down W. of S. and crossed Khor Wure Mangonga;this khor flows into Khor Yur; fairly open ground at first throughvillage, then young burnt forest. Continuing S.W. crossed KhorTozo, open ground, marshy, then over ridge, bushy country; groundslopes E. to plain, with thick belt of trees on ridge in distance(N. to S.).
Village Umbeyur8181Going S. over rising ground, passed KhorMapeko with village Byuvo, Headman named Zaniwe, on N. bank.Continuing S. over rise, crossed Khor Magone, then thin trees forten minutes, then through telibun fields to village of Umbeyur,Headman Bgumbo. A good many banana plants here, and several patchesof date palms en route. Camped in village. Tribes Bagmondaand Abondu, slaves of Mangi.
Marched on S. through village, overrising ground fairly open, drops E. and rises to forest. After halfhour crossed small Khor Wureyim. N. of this khor all Nyam Nyamstribes are called Abakas, also to E. and S.E. of here. ContinuingS.S.W., passed deserted village of Abubunda.
Harimat of Mangi7188Turning S., path runsparallel with Khor Yur—tribes S. of Khor Yur Abowis—which bendssharply to W. Crossed and continued S. over rise, bushy, passed olddeserted village of Badigo. Then very marshy ground, crossing KhorUmbondingani, continues marshy for some distance E., with largepools of water. Going S. over marsh, crossed Khor Mungani, groundthen rises, valley to W., far bank dotted with houses; harimat ofMangi. Then passing few houses, then E., S.E., and S. through thinforest, houses on either side. Ground drops W. Bananas plentifulen route. Continuing S.S.E. over rise, through thin forestdown steep incline; crossed Khor Mabondi, dry at present, but about10 feet deep during rains, and 100 yards wide, it ends about 1½miles to E.; then up incline on far side; passed few tukls, throughthin forest, young trees. Progress slow, having to cut road fortransport, down slope and crossed Khor Mufeu, splendid large poolof water, excellent quality, houses close by. Then S. for fiveminutes and crossed bend of Khor Mufeu, over rise through thickforest, young trees; then S.E., S., and S.W., through thick belt oftrees, so thick that sun did not penetrate, and was in semidarkness, down to Khor Masagissa (runs N.W. to Mufeu), and haltednear pool of water. Very open ground near khor to E. and W. Cutpath through belt of trees for hamla, &c. Trees of the lulutype the whole way. Crossed khor, very marshy ground for ½ milebeyond, then S.W. over rise, ground drops E., with thick forest indistance on high ground; passed old village of Abiama, SheikhLeguar, this has been a large compact village, some time deserted;banana, manyok, cloth, and cotton plants growing in wildconfusion.
Khor Masagissa5193
Khor Makatapu runs parallel with and toE. of path bending W., path crossing it near batch of tukls ofMangi.
Mangi’s Village4197Continuing S.S.W. through thin forest,trees close on path; cut way for hamla, reach more tukls(deserted); camped beyond at pools of water, on open ground.Progress slow owing to thickness of trees on path. A large numberof date palms in Khor Makatapu, and acacia all along banks.

[27]This does not apply now (1904).

CHAPTER VIII.

(KORDOFAN).