101.—EL OBEID to DAR EL JANGE.

By Major E. B. Wilkinson, January and February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid——Leaving the Mudiria, the road runs in aS.S.W. direction, and at 1½ miles distance further on reaches thesouthern edge of the El Obeid basin, and low acacia bush and anoccasional baobab tree take the place of dukhn cultivation.
Track to El Atshan Wells55At 5 miles distance from El Obeid, abroad track runs in a S.W. direction to El Atshan wells, which aresituated in Khor Fertangul, 22 miles from El Obeid.
The road to El Merekib continues in thesame direction, viz., S.S.W., and one passes through the same kindof bush with sandy soil until the village is reached. Theinhabitants consist of Bederia and Ghodiat Arabs.
El Merekib510There is a well here, but the supply ofwater is very small. Dukhn is cultivated around the village.
J. Fertangul6½16½The road continues ina S.W. by S. direction until J. Fertangul is reached. There are twosmall hills of the same name; one E. of the road, and 6½ milesdistant from Merekib, and the other on the W. of the road, and 8miles distant from Merekib. The crest of latter is crowned withwhite limestone.
1½18
Khor Fertangul119One mile from the hill, Khor Fertangulwith wells in its bed is reached.
524Khor.
Khor Kashgil1½25½Khor Kashgil with good shade andgrazing.
El Edeidat9¾35½Here road changes direction to S.S.E.,and runs through thick bush for 9¾ miles until khor crosses road;this place is known as El Edeidat. There are two wells in khor.(Plenty of water March, 1904.)
Hella Abdel Samad540¼Road runs S. from here, and 5 miles on atrack runs S.E. to Hella Abdel Samad, which is about 1 mile off themain road.
El Birket2¾43One and three-quarter miles on road turnsdue W., and 1 mile on brings one to El Birket; there are twovillages here consisting of Bederia Arabs who have a good deal ofland under cultivation. Here there is a large lake or reservoir,which I am informed contains much water for eight months in theyear, but owing to this year being exceptionally dry there was nowater (February, 1902), and wells sunk in the centre 24 feet deepwere also dry. The area of this reservoir is probably 2 squaremiles. Good timber and shade on the southern edge of the lake.
From here the road runs S.W. throughthick bush, and the soil changes to black cotton soil.
El Edaiya Faki Yasin750The district known as El Edaiyacommences, and Hella Beni Fadl is reached.
Um Seneina2¾52¾Hella Um Seneina.
Abu Habl3¼56Khor Abu Habl isreached at Sessaban. This district is inhabited by Bederia Arabs;each village has a certain amount of land cleared and undercultivation (dukhn). Khor Abu Habl is here about 15 to 20 yardsbroad, with high banks varying from 15 to 20 feet with good timbergrowing along them. A few wells are sunk at Sessaban, but thesupply of water was not sufficient to allow of animals beingwatered (8.1.02).
Um Sessaban
H. El Daruta3½59½H. El Daruta (Bederia), J. Belgulti andFainar visible from here.
261½Track runs W., and
H. Balamat162½Hella Balamat is reached.
Kururra2½65Khor Abu Habl is again struck at Kururrawell, which is situated under a very fine gemmeiza tree, and givesa large quantity of water.
Well, 80 feet to water, and there was 20feet of water in it. Kururra village ½ mile E. of well, Bederia,also water at this well. Hawazma Arabs.
Sungikai368Wells of Sungikai—four in number, 72 feetdeep in khor; banks of khor 10 to 15 feet high. Large population ofHawazma Arabs.
Sungikai village 1½ miles N.W.
From Sungikai village a much used roadruns N.N.W. to El Obeid, passing through El Atshan wells in KhorFertangul, distance 48 miles.
Zeriba El Aguz or H. El Birgid2½70½Leaving Sungukai wells, one enters a veryrich district. Road runs S.W., and 2½ miles H. El Birgid (Bederia)is reached, and villages occur almost every mile till El Nila isreached. There is much cultivation in this district; theinhabitants (Hawazma) possess many cattle, and N. of Nila there isexcellent timber.
El Nila5½76At El Nila there are six wells,average 42 feet deep, giving excellent supply of water, and manyhundreds of cattle, sheep and goats water there daily. Finegemmeiza, sunt, haraz, and heglig trees. Four to five Arab(Ferikgs) or settlements. Khor 20 yards between banks, which inplaces are 22 to 25 feet broad. All along bank there is very goodtimber.
Leaving El Nila wells in a S.S.E.direction, there is an excellent and much used road to J. Watta,distant 30 miles, first 10 miles good shade, after that none.
J. Dilling[32]1591Leaving El Nila, road runs S.W. and after13 miles through forest of heglig and talh, and over cotton soilsbring one to J. Dilling, consisting of a group of hills; thicklypopulated by Nubas who build their little conical huts in groups insuitable recesses among the boulders high up in the hills.
½91½Half a mile S.W. wells in khor; khor 25to 30 yards broad; good shade and grazing; good camp ground.
J. Abu Sebah495½Four miles S.W. is J. Abu Sebah, a smallrocky hill ½ mile from khor along which there is a small populationof Hawazma Arabs, who have dug wells, four in number, in khor,depth 21 feet to water. Deleib palms were first seen betweenDilling and this, and the country intervening is cleared andcultivated.
From J. Abu Sebah road to Gulfan runsS.E. over cotton soil for first four miles. Open bush and thentalh, heglig bush, &c.
J. Samasen15110½J. Samasen is passed, and
4114½Four miles on, onereaches the foot of hills where soil becomes more gravelly, andcontains a lot of detritus and broken rock, which makes goingharder for camels. The road trends S. and then W., winding overspurs from the main hills and passing over large areas which arecultivated with dura, eventually entering between the hills crownedwith many Nuba villages and Gulfan is reached.
J. Gulfan3117½
Here there was very little water. Wellsmere holes 6 feet to 8 feet, and having a very slow yield. Hillsare here terraced to the top, and dura grown in large quantities.The terraces are most carefully made and walls of stone arebuilt.
From Gulfan the road runs W. over rock,and going is bad, as one is continually ascending and descendingspurs.
2119½Two miles afterleaving, wells (mere holes in the ground, about 6 feet deep) arepassed, the road now running between two ranges of hills, and thereis an Arab settlement. J. Tarda is left on the N. and J. Watta 4miles N.E., and road turns S. and S.W., following the contour ofthe southern range of hills, and ½ mile on a road branches, runningN.E. to J. Watta, which is inhabited by Nubas and Arabs.
J. Tarda1120½
½121
The road to J. Watta runs N.E. throughthick bush for 4½ miles, and crosses a khor close to the hill.There are many wells, but most give very little water which,however, is of good quality. The road to Kadaro and El Obeid fromS. passes through here; and also there is an excellent road toNila, running N.N.W. through talh and jungle. This road is greatlyused by Hawazma Arabs, who migrate N. annually. Six miles afterleaving J. Watta, J. Tungul is left on E., 3 miles off road, and at16 miles J. Dilling el Khulla is passed, 1 mile W. of road. Noshade for 20 miles, then good shade and grazing; total distance toNila 30 miles.
Katta2½123½Nuba village Katta is passed, and thereis an Arab settlement close by. Much dura is cultivated. J. Sheibunand Um Heitan is visible.
2125½A large rocky hillwith jagged crest; low bush, no shade. Here road runs S.S.W., and2¼ miles on khor is passed which had water in a hole under S. bankon 21.2.02. Road continues in same direction and the country isvery much the same as before, talh and heglig, only the soil ismore gravelly until Khor Debri and Debri wells, 6 feet deep, arereached. Leaving Debri wells, where there is a small hill, roadruns S.W. for 2 miles, and ¾ mile further S.
2¼127¾
9½137¼
J. Debri2¾140J. Debri, with village (Nuba) of the samename is passed. Here much land is cleared and dura cultivated atthe foot of hills.
J. Kega2142Two miles south of Debri road bends toW., skirting the foot of the hills, and J. Kega Tummero is reached.This is a large conical hill, part of W. chain of other features,and up the sides of which the Nubas have built their huts, somesituated right on the top, at the foot of which and in there-enterants are also many huts belonging to them and also Arabs.There is a well here but the water is very bad.
Khor Kega2144Two miles on KhorKega is reached, which flows from J. Kega el Abiad and Kega Libu.There are six wells in bed of khor, which is 20 yards wide, 6 to 8feet deep; water good and abundant, good shade and grazing. Muchdura is cultivated in the plain, and there is an Arab (Hawazma)settlement. Crossing Khor Kega road runs roughly S. over cottonsoil with talh and heglig forest, and at 3½ miles Khor El Kuek iscrossed.
Khor El Kuek3½147½
Hella Daud12159½Eleven miles on Hella Daud, 35 to 40 hutsbelonging to Hawazmas, who cultivate dura and have much groundcleared. From here to S.W. the Miri range and J. Demik and Kega HegEl Kheil are visible. Water is transported from wells in a khor E.of village at the foot of J. Tesein Dhanat.
J. Kadugli7166½After continuing S. through the same kindof forest and crossing many small watercourses which flow W. fromthe hills, the road skirts the foot of J. Musta, and Kadugli isreached. Here there is a population of Nubas and Hawazma Arabs. TheMek of the Nubas is named Rehal, and he exercises power over allthe surrounding hills. The whole of this range of high hillscontaining J. Tesem Dhanab, J. Musta and J. Kadugli, is known bythe name of El Goghub. J. Sabori, to the W., is alsoinhabited.
From KADUGLI toKEILAK.
Khor Kadugli½167Leaving the camp at the foot of J.Kadugli one proceeds W. and ½ mile on brings one to the khor of thesame name. Here there are three groups of wells. (1) ¾ mile W. ofArab village there are a group of some half a dozen wells,principally used by Arabs. (2) Central group, live wells 6 feetdeep, used by Nubas. (3) 1 mile down stream and S., two wells 6feet deep, used by the Mek’s immediate household; all give a goodsupply of water. There is very good grazing all along the khor.Much dura cultivated.
J. Kaffari2169J. Kaffari is passedS. of road which runs W. through much dura cultivation and alongthe banks of Khor Kadugli, which rises in Miri range. Road passesnow between low range of hills, and continues W. by S. for 5 milesthrough level plain covered with heglig, talh, and haraz forest,with clearings for dura cultivation, with the hills close in oneither side forming a narrow gorge scarcely 200 yards wide, downwhich runs a khor some 10 to 15 yards broad. The ground being rockyit is very bad going for camels and bulls.
1170
5175
¾175¾
Gorge turns abruptly S., and roadcontinues on through pretty scenery in a W. direction over a rockysaddle-back, and then one gradually descends into a valley in whicha large and important khor rises which feeds Lake Keilak, andenters the Bahr El Arab. Water here obtained by digging in the sandin bed of khor.
Plain surrounded by green vegetation; goodtimber, and there is much land cleared for dura cultivation. Thehills are terraced to the tops and dura grown on them.
Tuluk5180Tuluk, the abode of Mek Hamed Abu Sekin,is reached, and there are many groups of villages in thesurrounding hills; some low down near the foot, others perched highup near the crests. Here, surrounded on all sides by hills, is alarge open area of ground with water within 2 feet of the surface,probably 1½ square miles of rich soil, which, if only tilled, wouldgrow almost everything. The Nubas only require dura, however.
J. Kufa3183Leaving Tuluk the track runs along sideof khor, which now runs S.W., and 3 miles on J. Kufa, with severallarge villages, is passed. Here roads divide; one, following khor,passes through plain much cultivated with dura by the Nubas of J.Kufa, Lima, and Kania. The khor here is walled across at intervalswith large stones to hold back the water in the rains. Khor emergesfrom the hills at J. Kania.
J. Abu Sinun2185The second road runs S.S.W. to J. AbuSinun, where there are two Nuba villages under Mek Zakharia, and aHomr (Felaita) village. Water obtained from khor.
J. Kanga3188Three miles W. is J. Kanga, the southernside of which hill is fortified by a 6-feet stone wall, crowned bya zeriba to guard the Nubas from raids by the Homr Arabs. The hutsare high up the hill. Khor emerges here between two hills, and isnow 20 to 25 yards broad; well 4 to 6 feet in khor; water good.Looking S. about 20 miles off are two hills, and beyond as far asthe eye can reach to the S. and W. is a dead level plain coveredwith forest. From J. Kanga, road runs W. and S.W., and for 1½ milesthere is dura cultivation.
1189Khor crosses road, and cotton soil takesthe place of rocky decomposed gravel. The forest is of largergrowth—talh and heglig, and the tracks of animals which havestruggled through the deep mud that exists in the rains becomevisible.
3½192½Road again crosses khor, and long grasshinders any view.
2½195Road crosses outlet from Lake Keilak,which now becomes visible, and then goes due W. for two miles whenKeilak is reached.
Keilak2197Keilak is a series of groups of tuklsbadly built and inhabited by Homr Arabs who possess few flocks, afew horses, and appear to live on the Nubas.
The limits of the lake are very difficultto determine, as for 2 miles on N.E. and N. sides long grass 8 feethigh hides all view, but from what can be observed by riding roundthe length was computed to be 4 miles and the breadth 2 miles. On22.1.02, there was a very large expanse of open water, and thenatives reported it to be considerably over a man’s height indepth. In order to reach the open water one has to wade through abroad fringe of green grass and lilies. Soil surrounding lakeexcellent, rich soil and water could be found a mile from edge, 6feet below surface. The forest on S. and W. sides very good, andthere are some really fine timber trees.
2199Leaving Keilak road runs N. for 2miles then S.S.E., and numerous Arab settlements are passedsituated along the outlet of the lake.
El Geref4½203½4½ miles El Geref; Homr settlement; herethere is water in any quantity, 8 paces broad with grass andwater-lilies covering the surface. Water 1 to 2 feet deep inplaces. Current very slight; Arabs clear spaces and fence themround for fish to collect in.
1¼204¾Road then goes S.W.for 1¼ miles, then S.S.E. for 2½ miles over a broad swamp, dry atdate of crossing (25.1.02), but covered with long grass and pittedwith elephant tracks, which were terrible pitfalls for the baggageanimals. After crossing this bit of country, track runs S.W., alongedge of bed of river, which was dry, and going became better, andwhen track ran on the slightly elevated edge of forest; the soilwas sandy and going good until El Yoi was reached. Along immediateedge of river, forest very good. To the E. and W. away from river,talh and heglig forest and cotton soil.
2½207¼
El Yoi20¾228
At El Yoi two pools were found, containinggood water sufficient for our wants, but likely only to last for afew days. Ground here much cut up and intersected by small waterchannels, while soil was baked hard and cracked in all directions,making it most difficult for bulls and donkeys to travel. At El Yoiitself, good shade and fine trees; forest in neighbourhood and toS. consists of talh, and ground covered with long grass.
El Dirkoei7¾235¾Road continues S.W., and after 7¾ miles,El Dirkoei is reached; this place merely a reach of the river,which at the time contained a little water.
El Debekir3½239¼Three and a-half miles S.W., El Debekirwas reached. Here there was an Arab (Homr) settlement; water in bedof river, 8 feet deep in places and covered with grass (27.1.02),but dry on 11.2.02.
13¾253From Debekir roadruns over black cotton soil very much fissured. W. by S. for 13¾miles, then S.S.W. for 3 miles when heglig forest is entered and ElAnga on river is reached. Here there is an Arab settlement, andthere was a little water (28.1.02).
El Anga3256
Kuek5½261½Road now runs 1¾ miles S.W., and S. for3¾ miles when Kuek is reached. Here the river is 50 yards broad,and the water was from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet deep, but coveredwith grass. Large Arab settlement and many cattle.
H. Debib6267½Road runs S.W. for 6 miles, when H. Debibis passed; a few Homr Arabs living here; but in the rains there aremany wells; one well 6 feet deep, water good.
General run of road now S.S.W. to S.
Fula Hamadai3½271Fula Hamadai with a little watersufficient to water animals on 30.1.02; but dry on 9.2.02. Smallvillages—mere collection of three or four huts passed at El Jaartand Um Geren.
Fut11¾282¾Eleven and three quarter miles from FulaHamadai, village named Fut was passed. Country here more open andlower bush; going better, and road crosses river bed; dry and longgrass.
Fauwel4286¾Fauwel is reached. Large Arab settlement;much water in river, and an open expanse 1¾ miles surrounded byreeds. Geese and waterfowl. Homr Arabs here very wild, but possessmany cattle, goats and sheep.
8¾295½Road now runs 1 mile S.W. and 5¾ milesS.S.E. and strikes the river, then continues to run alongside of itfor 2 miles, when the river takes a bend N.E. The river here isvery broad, 300 yards in places and the water is 3 feet 6 inchesdeep, generally the surface is covered with grass and weeds, andvery little open water is seen. The trees on bank are also muchbigger.
Bahr El Arab5300½The Bahr El Arab here has to be crossed,and this was done at a point where it was 120 yards broad, withwater 3 to 3 feet 6 inches deep, the baggage bulls being unloadedand the baggage being carried across by hand. Bed of river verymuddy.
From this point, which is known to theArabs, as the district of Bara, the river flows S.S.E. as far ascould be judged.
Track now runs S., and at 5 miles dividesone running S.S.W. to the country of a Dinka chief called Rueng,the other S.S.W. leads over a wide plain covered with long grassand a few bushes; surface of ground much fissured and soil much cutup.
Country changes to forest after somemiles.
Bongo14¾315¼The first Dinkavillage of Bombo is reached. This district is now known as Bongo,and 3 miles on, S.W., is one of the villages of Tehak, another ofthe same name being met 2½ miles on.
3318¼
Tehak2½320¾
These villages, neatly built, are used bythe Dinkas in the rains and as long as the water lasts. At thepresent date, 2.2.02., all the inhabitants had left and weregrazing their herds of cattle where grass and water were to befound.
Etai2322¾Reached Etai, where the first Dinkas weremet. Here there were large settlements, and the people were mostfriendly. A chief named Lor has his headquarters here. A largewatercourse flows in from N.E. and meets another watercourse, theRegabet El Lau, which comes from N.W., and then joining runs intothe Kir, or Bahr El Jange, in a southerly direction.
Kir, or Bahr El Jange5½328¼Road continues for 3 miles through forestS.W., then runs W. for 2½, miles, and the Kir River, or Bahr ElJange, is struck, as one reaches the settlements of SultanRob.
The river here is a most pleasant sightafter the monotonous red talh forest and long grass, and is 80yards broad now, 3.2.02., 12 to 15 feet deep, current 1½ miles anhour. Banks low but firm, with green rushes and grass along theedges. In the rains the banks are flooded and the river widens to200 to 400 yards. There are a few dugouts here; the natives saythat canoes can go in open water to the Bahr El Ghazal. Fish areplentiful, as are also crocodiles and hippos.
The district on N. bank is called Mareg.The district on S. bank is called Masian, and the Sultan Rob livesin the latter. Much dura is cultivated.

102.—RIVER KIR to FAUWEL.

By Major E. B. Wilkinson, January and February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
2¼—Leaving Sultan Rob’s settlement the roadruns N.W., and the river is left on the left, but is struck again2¼ miles on, and the path keeps along the left bank. The countryhere is all open, and much dura cultivated. Dinka dwellings aredotted about, and the country presents a most prosperousaspect.
Gohea2¾5Village of Gohea onriver bank, which here has become overgrown with reeds, grass,&c. River here turns to N.W., and road now runs N.E. for 2¾miles, then E. by N.
2¾7¾
18¾One mile on Regabet El Lau, coming infrom N. and running S.
El Niat1¼10The commencement of a large swamp, nowdry, called El Niat, but covered with long grass, and going is verybad.
4½14½End of El Niat.
1½16Direction of road changes to N.
Gulmaia9¼25¼Gulmaia, a pool containing very badwater; almost dried up.
Abu Kareit429¼Abu Kareit, on Bahr El Arab. Homrsettlement. River here 100 yards broad, with water 2 feet 6 inchesdeep covered with grass; river here flows E. and W.
Mellum4¾34Track follows river bank.
Mellum, an Arab settlement, with KhorFamai running in from N.
Regabet El Shaib6½40½River now flows W. by N., and 6½ miles onRegabet El Shaib; flows in the N. from river; now bends S.W., andenters district called Bara. Immediately at this point flows inKeilak El Yoi; and Fauwel flows in from N.E.
Fauwel3¼43¾From Regabet El Shaib road runs N.E., andanother 3¼ miles N. brings one to Fauwel.

General Description of BAHR EL ARAB and DAR EL HOMR.

Immediately one emerges from the hilly country of the Nubas a vast level plain meets the eye, absolutely devoid of landmarks: the soil changes abruptly to rich black cotton soil with fissures, some so broad and deep that it is dangerous for bulls and donkeys, owing to their getting their legs jammed in the cracks. The surface of the land is uniformly covered with talh and heglig trees; occasionally tamarind and kau trees are met. Only two india-rubber trees were seen. The natives do not appear to know the use of these. The Bahr El Arab in section is very shallow, with no defined banks, and at this time of year water is more or less in pools. All the confluents are the same shallow watercourses, and the country appears to be one vast swamp in the rains. Only in a few places, Fauwel, Keilak, and Kuek, do the Homr Arabs remain throughout the year, as they say that the flies and mosquitoes torment men and beasts to such an extent as to make life unbearable.

103.—EL OBEID to SUNGIKAI, viâ EL ATSHAN and EL HAMADI.

By Deputy Inspector C. E. Lyall.