The second route, viâ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is bad about Sinkat.
(α) NORTHERLY ROUTE.[2]
Major W. S. Sparkes, October, 1897, and December and January, 1897-98.
| Place. | Miles. | Description. | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inter-mediate. | Total. | ||
| Suakin | — | — | Road runs in north-westerly directionalongside formation level of old Suakin-Berber railway. Good road,and easy going through scrub, with mimosa and acacia trees. Plaincovered with camels and flocks of goats grazing. Gentle rise allway to Handub. |
| Handub Well | 10 | 10 | Water here practically unlimited,slightly brackish; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing for camels.Water about 20 feet down. |
| 3 | 13 | Track enters hills, which gradually closein on either side, going still good and gentle rise. | |
| Otao Well | 6 | 19 | Two wells here, giving good water, holesin ground, could be easily developed, at present sufficient for twocompanies infantry and their transport. Formation level of oldrailway ends here. |
| Tambuk Well | 5 | 24 | Good water, supply practically unlimited,now three wells, would be easily increased. Good camp ground, fueland grazing. Gazelle, hares, partridges, and doves along road,Handub and Tambuk. Water in wells about 15 feet down. |
| 2 | 26 | To here going stony and rough, thenthrough a short defile, and somewhat better; trees and shrubs allalong. | |
| Khor Ossaud | 5 | 31 | A sudden, short,sharp ascent, a ½-mile level, stony ground, without a shrub, anddown to Khor Ossaud broad khor, full of trees, &c.; excellentgoing. |
| Olip | 1 | 32 | |
| Khor Adit | 1 | 33 | Khor Adit, the main khor from Sinkat,which is about 20 miles distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some gazelles,many doves in this khor, also numerous herds, goats and camelsgrazing. Junction of khor, called Olip. |
| 3 | 36 | Track bends suddenly to right, andcrosses a short and easy “agaba,” or pass. This is a short cut,main khor could be followed, and pass avoided, if necessary. Thiswould make good halting place for infantry. It is 15 miles fromTambuk; plenty fuel and grazing. No water, but probably could befound if sunk for. | |
| Dissibil (well) | 7 | 43 | One large well, which is merely holescooped in ground, gives plentiful supply good water; similar waterholes could be dug without difficulty, and supply water practicallyunlimited; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing. |
| Dissibil khor full of trees and shrubs;many gazelle and rock grouse and doves. | |||
| 4 | 47 | Track crosses small pass or agaba, thenceruns under high mountains on left hand, called Jebel Tamei. Chainof low stone hills on right, going fair all time. | |
| Odrus | 7 | 54 | Track debouches onwide open plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10, called Wadi Odrus; iscovered with coarse grass and stunted mimosa. Gradual rise up tohere, now gentle descent to centre of Wadi Odrus, where a narrowkhor known as Tekarti. In good rain season considerable quantity ofdura is grown along edge of this khor, but on Dissibil side and toeastwards only. Several well-grown trees along edge of khor. Thisis 15 miles from Dissibil, and would make suitable halting placefor infantry. No water, except after rains; good camp ground, fuel,and grazing. A gradual rise from here. |
| Tekarti | 6 | 60 | |
| 3¼ | 63¼ | On right of track, under low hill,several stone huts of Hamdab tribe. | |
| 2 | 65¼ | Wadi Odrus ends and track crossesoutlying stony ridges of Amud range. | |
| 2 | 67¼ | A sharp gradient andhighest point of whole route is reached 2,870 feet above sea level.A sharp descent by about ¾ mile of rocky agaba or pass, which,however, presents but little difficulty to passage of all arms,leads to Khor Hareitri, a rather narrow defile between high stonehills. Stony, baddish going, full of sunt or mimosa trees, andpatches of coarse grass. Three-quarters mile up khor is well, knownas Bir Tamai by some, by others as simply Hareitri, a stonerevetted well, giving good water about 12 feet down, rough woodhuts on other side of well. | |
| Khor Hareitri (well) (Tamai) | ¾ | 68 | |
| ¾ | 68¾ | ||
| Adel Aweb[3] | 3¼ | 72 | Rain pools found all along edges of khor,and 3 miles from Tamai a very large deep pool, giving any quantitygood water. Natives say pools all disappear in winter a few monthsafter rain ceases, but wells could be sunk with success anywhere inkhor. The big pool above called by natives Adel Aweb. Good grazingand fuel here, indifferent camp ground on account of stones. Rockgrouse and doves in khor, which is about 5 miles long. |
| 1 | 73 | Hareitri defile ends, and wide open plaincalled Wadi Tisartem is reached. Here dura is cultivated. | |
| 1½ | 74½ | A few huts on right, and some dura grownin good rain season, a good camp ground near here, fuel andgrazing, but no water, though not impossible, might be found. | |
| 4 | 78½ | Track crosses low rough ridges for ½mile. | |
| Salalat (well) | ½ | 79 | Khor Haab thick with fair-sized trees, asandy plain. Two and a-half miles off track, to left or south, isBir Salalat, two wells, partially revetted wood, water good, about40 feet down. Supply limited, each well could, perhaps, supply 600gallons, and would then require three hours to refill, more wellscould easily be sunk. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing, and somefair-sized trees near wells. These wells cannot be relied on aspermanent. In 1903 they had been dry for 2 years. |
| 3½ | 82½ | A slight rise brings track to levelplateau of gravelly trap, smooth and firm, no vegetation, leadingdown to Khor Furd. | |
| 2½ | 85 | A very large patch cultivation dependenton rainfall, nothing could be grown this year. | |
| 5½ | 90½ | Across a neck, high irregular-shapedrocky hill few hundred yards to right, large black boulder to left.Quarter mile further is level, open, gravelly piece of ground,suitable for camp, with fuel and grazing, but no water. From herevegetation gradually ceases. | |
| 2 | 92½ | Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying ridgewith high mass of rock on left. From here hills close in and trackalong base of outlying spurs and ridges. | |
| Khor Kokreb | 3½ | 96 | Agaba or pass leadingto Khor Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight rise, then a steep androcky, but not difficult, piece, in all about ½ mile, and khor isentered; ½ mile on and well called Hayaba, a hole in ground, watera few feet down and good, only one hole at present, but otherscould be dug in very short time, giving a practically unlimitedsupply. Rough wooden hut and Arab grave, and on left of well goodcamp ground, water, fuel, and grazing. |
| Hayaba (well) | 1 | 97 | |
| Sarbit (well) | 1½ | 98½ | Revetted stone well, good water about 10feet down, sufficient for battalion, good ground, fuel, andgrazing. |
| 4 | 102½ | Track, now well to right of khor, runsover a neck between small rocky hills for short way, then sand,then rocks, with graveyards on each side; ½ mile on and low rockychain hides main khor from track, hills gradually close in. | |
| 1½ | 104 | Hills now come in from north at rightangles to track, and appear to entirely block up khor; under thesehills was situated the Dervish post of Osman Digna. A collection oftukuls, sufficient for about 200 men, and surrounded by a thickthorn zariba; clear, level space, some 700 yards to front andflanks, within 200 yards of hills at back; a well enough chosenposition as regards covering road from Suakin. A narrow and shortdefile on extreme left affords an exit, and khor again widenssomewhat. | |
| El Matar (well) | 1½ | 105½ | A hole scooped in ground, good water afew feet down, enough for half battalion at present, but could bequickly increased by digging other holes. Camp ground, grazing, andfuel here. Track now bends to left and crosses neck between two oldgraveyards. |
| Abd El Haabit (well) | 1½ | 107 | Two wells here, about ½ mile apart, oneon track, other ½ mile to left. The one on track a hole in khor,good water, limited supply, enough for about 100 camels, beforerefilling in two hours. Other revetted stone, now dry, but couldeasily be reopened. |
| All these four last wells in Khor Kokreb,which is wide, full of trees and shrubs, with stony hills here andthere, many gazelle, doves and rock grouse. Track follows khor inall about 10 miles, when it branches to right. | |||
| Track now enters wide open plain of blackstone, but good going, bare but for few stunted mimosa, and coarsepatches of grass. | |||
| 5 | 112 | Stone ceases, and firm sand takes itsplace. | |
| 2½ | 114½ | Track bends to right among patches ofhuge boulders. | |
| Directly after entering Agortitweb Plain,a black hill, surmounted by what appears to be two tower-likemasses of rock, makes an excellent landmark, as tracks leadsstraight on to it. | |||
| Lagag Aweb[4] (called by natives half wayto Berber) | 1½ | 116 | Above-mentioned landmark is passed, itlies to left of road, and on close inspection becomes a smooth,oval base of rock, with irregular mass at approach end, while otherblock dissolves into two huge boulders, one with a considerablelean to east. Pass between this, which is called Lagag Aweb, onleft, and a smaller rocky hill on right, is considered by nativesas half way to Berber. |
| Wadi Yungul or K. Yomga | 2½ | 118½ | Track now winds for 2 miles round base of lowstony hills, crosses a neck, then on left a strip of coarse grassand stunted mimosa, bearing away to left, while hills on left alsospread away. For some way further, track winds along base of hillson right, when they also spread away, and the stony plain calledWadi Yungul is reached, going good. Good camp grounds, butindifferent grazing, and no water or fuel in Wadi Yungul. YungulPlain ceases, track winds to right between low stony hills. Alittle over 1 mile and narrow khor, with few trees and coarsegrass, is crossed, then again winds through low hills. Twoconnected hillocks of white marble being a prominent featureimmediately to left of track. |
| 6½ | 125 | ||
| 3 | 128 | The Ariab valley is entered, it is thickwith scrub and fair-sized trees, with numerous herds, goats,&c. The hills stretch away on either side. Natives report thereis a well called Makardi off track to left under the hills, butthat it gives but little water. | |
| Ariab[5] (well) | 3 | 131 | Three miles up valley are Ariab wells.One large stone-revetted in centre of khor, giving practicallyunlimited supply, excellent water. Water about 20 feet down. 150yards from this well are two others, also revetted, stone one givesplentiful supply, other partially choked for want of use. Good campground, grazing, water and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves, and rockgrouse in valley. Track now leaves Khor Ariab on right, and goessouth-west through black stone hills, low on right, high on left,somewhat bad going. |
| Level plain, covered tufts coarse grass,half stony, half sandy, good going. | |||
| Through low hills, rather bad going. | |||
| Wadi Barud | — | — | Wide level plain, covered coarse grass,good going. |
| Wadi O’Duruk | — | — | Level plain, good going, some coarsescrub, stunted trees. |
| Track leaves O’Duruk on right and passesto left of, and immediately below, a high stone hill, across asmall khor, and then winds among low stone hills. | |||
| Wadi Temartua | — | — | Good going, partly firm sand, partlystony. |
| Khor Laiameb | 44 | 175 | A broad khor running about east and west,almost at right angles to track. Said to contain pools after rain,about 4 miles to west of track. Small mimosa trees and coarsegrass; water might be found if sunk for. Track after crossing KhorLaiameb again goes over hilly stony ground. |
| Jebel O’Fik | 2½ | 177½ | On right of track country open and levelagain, a few trees and some grass here. |
| Wadi Tatua | — | — | After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi Tatuais entered; sandhills, &c., in khor; Obak can be seen indistance; good going. |
| 5½ | 183 | Across a low ridge, going stillgood. | |
| Plain becomes covered with small mimosabushes; 1½ miles through these bushes and Obak sandhills and driftsare entered. | |||
| Obak (well) | 9 | 192 | Large new well, gives 2,000 gallons whenfull; takes 10 hours to refill. Water slightly brackish. Nativessay that there were formerly 50 or 60 of these wells, but havefallen in from want of use. Wells, revetted wood; water about 40feet down. Indifferent camp ground, some grazing and fuel. |
| For 3 miles after Obak track lies throughheavy sand over hills and drifts, then good level going, onlyoccasional sand. | |||
| 14 | 206 | Some trees and grass here; suitable campground; water might possibly be found. Site of proposed well. | |
| Jebel Eremit | 2 | 208 | A low granite hill on left of track. |
| Abu Odfa | 5 | 213 | Curious-shaped mass of rock on right oftrack. |
| Wadi Abu Selim | 21 | 234 | Some trees and grass; water couldprobably be found. Site of proposed well. |
| Maho Bey (well) | 11 | 245 | Good revetted well, 40 feet down, coveredby mud brick fort; excellent water, practically unlimited supply,good camping ground, fuel and grazing. |
| Berber | 6 | 251 | Except for first 3 miles all going fromObak to Berber excellent. |
SUMMARY of WELLS on NORTHERLY ROUTE.
| Name of well. | Distance apart. | Description. |
|---|---|---|
| Miles. | ||
| Handub | 10[6] | Slightly brackish, unlimited supply. |
| Otao | 9 | One well, hole in khor; good water could be developed. |
| Tambuk | 5 | Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited supply. |
| Dissibil | 19 | One well, good water hole in khor, at present (1898) sufficient half battalion and transport; could be increased at will. |
| Tamai | 25 | In Khor Hareitri; well also by some called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about 12 feet deep, good water; well itself sufficient for half battalion and transport, but supply easily increased. Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3 miles from Tamai. |
| Salalat | 11 | One and a-half miles to left of road, two wells, revetted stone, one practically choked. Good water about 40 feet down, limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and takes 2 hours to refill. |
| Hayaba | 18 | Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good water, supply practically unlimited, as similar holes can be dug in very short time. |
| Sarbit | 1½ | In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet down, revetted stone. |
| Matar | 7 | Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water, supply half battalion, but could be developed. Former watering place of Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off. |
| Id El Haabit | 1½ | Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half battalion, could be developed. |
| Ariab | 24 | One very large well, revetted stone, good water about 20 feet down; two smaller, also revetted stone, one now choked. Water sufficient at present for one battalion and transport, and could be developed. |
| Obak | 61 | One large stone revetted well, giving excellent supply of good water. |
| Maho Bey | 52 | Large stone revetted well, good water, large supply. |
(β)—BERBER to SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE).
The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.
Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road.
A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would be required at each well.