The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2)

by Sudan. Wizarat al-Naql wa-al-Muwasalat

N.B. This is not the direct road, but water is obtainable more frequently. Distances only roughly approximate.

Place.	Miles.		Description.
	Inter-mediate.	Total.
Debba	—	—
Um Belila	35	35	Water plentiful. Three wells, 12 feetdeep (James, 1902).
El Amri	43	78	Water plentiful (native informationonly).
Abu Tawagia	25	103	One well, 8 feet deep; good water (James,1902).
Elai	18	121	Water, scarce in dry season, from twostone-lined wells (Currie, 1903). From here, shortest way is toGambar, but road stony and bad, and merchants generally go to Gumr(25 miles). Vide [Route 110.]
Gambar	37	158	Wells, water (?) (native informationonly).
Gabra	24	182	Water plentiful, from many wells.
Omdurman	56	238

112.—AMBUGOL or KORTI to METEMMA.

From Reports by Mr. Fowler, 1871, and numerous Officers of the Nile Expedition, 1885.

Place.	Miles.		Description.
	Inter-mediate.	Total.
Ambugol	—	—	Possesses abundant indications, in theremains of an ancient masonry pier and in the considerable ruins inthe town, of having been formerly of much greater importance. Itwas selected as the point at which the projected Sudan railwayshould leave the Nile, and strike across the Bayuda Desert.
Korti	—	4	From Ambugol the caravan route followsthe bank of the river for a few miles to Korti, and then branchesoff into the desert in a westerly direction.
			After about 25 miles, it strikes the WadiAbu Gir and continues along it for many miles. Mr. Fowler statesthat the water is to be procured by sinking wells along the courseof this wadi, and that its bed for its entire length is filled withall the vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—shrubs and grass, which areinvaluable both as fuel, and as food for flocks.
			Water reservoirs, in tins, wereestablished in March, 1885, at hills 12 and 30 miles respectivelyfrom Korti, as the wells at Hambok and Haweiyat showed signs ofgiving out.
Hambok	47	51	Wells.
El Haweiyat	8	59	Wells. Yielding in February, 1885, 310gallons daily, but decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet deep, open inFebruary, 1897.
			Near the mountain of El Mesalima,situated a little to the right of the track, there is an abundanceof small timber.
			In December, 1871, and January, 1872,water in pools was found in many of the ravines issuing from theJebel Gilif range. The plain S. of this range has a good deal ofscrub upon it, and is said to be flooded occasionaly during therains to a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.
Miljik	—	—	Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat and 1½miles from the track; reported to have a good supply of rainwaterlike Jakdul. Found to be dry, February, 1885.
Abu Alik	—	—	Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik. Good supplyof water in wells 6 to 8 feet deep. Too far from track forpractical use.
Zobrik El Kelb (Miglig)	14	73	A plainly defined hill of curious shape.One mile N. of it are the wells of Miglig (Megaga, or El Kelb).Natural reservoirs of rainwater. These are two pools situated up anarrow ravine. The lowest, containing 5,000 gallons, is fit forcamels and horses. The upper pool, 100 yards beyond, contains over100,000 gallons of pure clear water. Tanks full, February, 1897,but water unclean; tastes stagnant.
			These estimates (14th February, 1885, byColonel Todd, R.E.) were taken when the upper pool was 4 feet, andthe lower 7 feet, below its high water level.
Abu Halfa	17	90	The wells of Abu Halfa, situated about 3½miles N. of the camel track, consist of holes made in dry riverbed. They vary in depth from 5 feet to 10 feet, and in diameterfrom 3 feet to 4 feet.
			Some distance further up the Wadi AbuHalfa there is a large pool surrounded by dom palms, which is saidnever to be dry. Close by this pool is a conical black hill,surmounted by a natural breastwork; excellent landmark.
			Water is to be found nearly everywhere inthis wadi, a foot or two below the surface, and is visible inseveral places at the foot of rocks.
			To a breadth of ½ mile on each side ofriver bed, acacia trees abound, and there is beautiful tabas grass;this, with the trees, forms the principal food of the flocks andherds—goats, camels, and cattle—belonging to the desert Arabs.
			For about 6 miles after leaving AbuHalfa, the ground falls slightly, about half this distance beingover a sandy desert, with sandstone rocks cropping up allround.
			The ground then rises gently, and enterscountry wooded thickly with acacia, and covered with coarsegrass.
			On the W. stand isolated rocks ofsandstone, and on the E. is seen the extension of the range fromAbu Halfa, which vanishes with an abrupt turn eastward.
Jakdul	10	100	The wells of Jakdul, situated in one ofthe torrent gorges of Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from the cameltrack, consist of three large water-worn cavities, each at adifferent level, and shut in by precipitous cliffs. The lowest ofthe pools forms an irregular oval in plan, about 120 feet long by60 feet broad, and for three-fourths of its length it is enclosedbetween perpendicular rocks. Whether any labour has been expendedin making these excavations it is impossible to say, but it isevident that the cavities have been mainly produced by the torrentsrushing through a small passage about 8 feet above the highestwater level, and thus wearing away the softer portions of the rockto a considerable depth below the ground level.
			These reservoirs contain always sufficientwater for two years’ supply of the existing demand, and are neverdry. The lowest well is daily visited by large numbers of animals,and the water is consequently unfit for any other use. The secondpool, about 10 feet above the first one, lies in the bottom of analmost inaccessible channel, the sides of the gorge rising in someplaces nearly perpendicularly to a height of about 80 feet from thewater.
			The approximate length of this pool is200 feet, and its width is 40 feet. The quality of the water isexcellent, and from this and the upper pool the skins used to carrydrinking water are filled, a cord and bucket being employed toraise the water. The third pool is about 5 feet higher than thesecond, and lies in a direction at right angles to it. Its size isabout 80 feet by 15 feet.
			A very tortuous and contracted channel,about 20 feet long, and 3 feet wide at the bottom, forms theconnection between the second and the lowest pool. Above this thegorge widens out, and by the construction of a dam, a finereservoir and ample water supply might be obtained.
			These wells, forming the chief watersupply on the Korti—Metemma route, were found ample for therequirements of the Desert Column, 2nd January to 15th March, 1885,but would not have lasted another fortnight.
			About 1 mile up the ravine, above thewells, are two more reservoirs, each holding (January, 1885) aboutthe same as the middle Jakdul reservoir. They were not used in1885. Numerous gazelle.
			After leaving Jakdul, the country for afew miles is entirely devoid of vegetation, but further on it isfor the most part covered with a sandy deposit, producing tabasgrass and acacia.
El Fura	—	—	Eight or nine miles east of the wells ofJakdul, and some miles from the caravan track, are the wells ElFura. They consist of a number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in diameter,and a few feet in depth, and are sunk in the usual manner in thechannel of a large river bed—Fura. They are rudely excavated andare unlined, their falling in, therefore, is a matter of frequentoccurrence, and these accidents are repaired by the excavation ofnew holes. A basin with puddled sides is formed on the surface forthe use of animals. During the rainy season the holes are rapidlyfilled with deposit, and they have then to be re-made. On the otherhand, in the dry season, the wells are gradually deepened, as thewater level falls through use, absorption, and evaporation. Cattle,sheep, and goats are driven here in large numbers. It is the customduring the hot season to water the sheep and goats once every fourdays, and the cattle every other day. In the winter season they aredriven to the wells every sixth and fourth day respectively. Thewater at these wells is good, and the supply generally plentiful.Only once within the 30 years preceding 1872[34]had they dried up, and then only after a continued drought of twoyears.
			These wells, being off the track, werenot used by the Desert Column, 1885.
			Before reaching Jebel-el-Nus, a tractwhere much drift sand prevails is reached. This drift sand usuallytravels from the E. to the W., under the influence of theprevailing winds, in the form of low mounds, in plan somewhat of acrescent form, with the convex side turned towards the wind. Thisslope of the mound is about 6 in 1, up which the sand constantlytravels to the summit of the ridge, and then rolls down thesheltered side where the slope is 1 in 1, every sandhill having inwindy weather a slow but constantly progressive action. As alltraces of the beaten camel tracks are often obliterated, theJebel-el-Nus is an invaluable landmark. Bad, soft going here.
Jebel el-Nus	22	122	It is a remarkable conical rock ofsandstone, and stands out prominently in the landscape.
			After this a valley is approached inwhich the drift sand becomes heavier, but where trees and grassgrow abundantly.
			On either side, however, the aspect of theground is most forbidding, the rocks surrounding the valley, seenfrom an elevation, having the appearance of a troubled stormysea.
			The drift sand continues in the valleyonly for a distance of about 3 miles.
Jebel-el-Sergein	10	132	After crossing a grass-grown wady thatpartially drains a range of hills on the W., Jebel-el-Sergein (orSaddle Hill), another remarkable desert beacon, is passed.
			The valley round Jebel-el-Sergein isfertile and contains much grass, and many groups of trees. As itaffords good pasturage for camels, it is always selected for aresting-place when the traveller cannot reach the nearestwells.
			Beyond this another wadi is crossed. Itis about a mile in width, and well covered with trees andgrass.
			For the next 12 or 13 miles the routeruns through the district of Ummat Handal.
			The first part of it is covered with muchbroken sandstone and loose rock. This is followed for 3 or 4 milesby a stretch of sand, which further on gives way to a moreagreeable country in which grass and trees are plentiful.
	15½	147½	The scene of the battle (17th January’85) was 2½ miles further on, ½ mile S. of the usual track.
Abu Klea (Abu Tleh)	4½	152	Some more wadis and low intervening hillsare crossed till the wells of Abu Tleh are reached.
			These wells are sunk in the same manneras those of El Fura, but, as the soil does not stand so well, theyare constantly falling in, and have, therefore, very frequently tobe reconstructed. The water is excellent for drinking, and thesupply is good, having failed only once within the 30 yearspreceding 1872. These wells are directly on the camel track toMetemma and are constantly visited by caravans. They also form afavourite watering place for the flocks and herds of theArabs.
			The route now enters a valley with grassand trees, and after following it for some distance across a plaincovered with sand and black boulders, succeeded by a morefavourable district, capable of cultivation during the rains.
Shebakat	16	168	A little further on occurs the well ofShebakat.
			This well is also directly on the caravanroute. It is 12 feet in diameter and 50 feet in depth, excavatedthrough the sandstone rock to a bed of sandy shingle. It is situateon an extensive plain amongst thick scrub and coarse grass, and asthere is no water channel in its vicinity, the supply must beobtained from low-level springs. The water being brackish, it isunfit for drinking purposes, and it is thick and clouded. Thesupply is abundant and never failing in the driest seasons. Smallpuddled basins are formed, as at other wells, on the ground surfacefor the use of cattle.
			An acacia forest, traversed by the DesertColumn on the night of 18th January, 1885, lies a mile or two S. ofthe ordinary track hereabouts.
			The track to Metemma now leads over lightscrub and tussocky gravel; that to Abu Khru or Khrug and Gubat issimilar, but with less scrub.
			The caravan route ends at Metemma, whichis situated near the W. bank of the Nile, and is separated from thedesert by a low line of hills.
Metemma	8	176	A considerable tract of fertile land,about 1,200 yards broad, dividing the town from the river, isoccasionally inundated during the season of the floods.
			Metemma contained (1885) about 3,000inhabitants, and was in 1897 and 1898 the headquarters of Mahmudand his men. It now (1903) contains 2,500 inhabitants who arechiefly women.
			This town in 1885 consisted of mud houseswith straw roofs, with one or two earthworks W. of the town; two ormore mosques. Bombardment with small 7-lb. guns produced no effecton the houses, the shells passing through without damaging them.Setting roofs on fire of no use, as it did not destroy the houses.It is now (1903) only just beginning to recover from the effects ofMahmud’s occupation and massacre.
Summary of WaterSupply.
Ambukol	—	—	On the Nile.
Korti	—	—	On the Nile.
Hambok	47	—	Wells.
El Haweiyat	8	59	Wells.
Magaga	14	73	Two good reservoirs 1 mile N. oftrack.
Abu Halfa	17	90	Wells, 3½ miles from the cameltrack.
Jakdul	10	100	Three miles N. of the caravan track.Abundant supply of water good for a large force.
El Fura	—	—	About 8 or 9 miles from Jakdul, and somemiles from the caravan track. Wells—water good, supply generallyplentiful.
Abu Tleh	52	152	Wells—water excellent, supply fairlyplentiful.
Shebakat	16	168	One large well. Supply abundant and neverfailing, but the water is brackish, and only fit for animals.
Metemma	8	176	On the Nile.
Shendi	—	—	On the Nile 3 miles below Metemma.

113.—KORTI to BAYUDA and SEDEIRI.

By Captain V. Bunbury and Viscount Sudley, March, 1897.

Place.	Miles.		Description.
	Inter-mediate.	Total.
Korti	—	—	Road indifferent going for infantry;suitable for cavalry.
Um Tub	35	35	One permanent well here, 10 feet indiameter, sides faced with stone. Water, 125 feet below groundlevel, good; constant supply. Fourteen hods at the well’s mouth ingood order. Country open, good grazing. Well in the middle of agravelly rise, easy for defence. It took 5 hours to water 115camels.
			For the first 3½ hours (10 miles) afterleaving this the route is very bad going, especially for cavalry,and lies along a broken wadi and many stony bits. Ground on eitherside rocky, hilly; efficient scouting impossible. After the brokenground the route lies over open country, and is good forcavalry.
Um Sunt Bayuda	30	65	The wells here are in a khor which runsfrom S. to N. at this point. Only two wells were open to any depth(about 10 feet), but were quite dry. Dug in both of them, but hadto desist in one after a short time, as it was too narrow for a manto work in. In the other, reached water after 3 hours’ digging at adepth of 23 feet below the ground level. Water flowed freely, andwas good.
			The wells are commanded from E. and W. byhigh ground immediately above the river bed, and from N. and S. byhills from 100 to 150 feet high at a distance of 200 yards, andfrom N.E. by a range of hills about 800 feet high at a distance of1 mile.
			Ten days later this well was revisitedand found to be dry.
			The next 4 miles are through the WadiBayuda defile. Road very bad here; flanked on either side by rockyhills, which appear to run far inland on both flanks. All scoutingon flanks impossible. After heavy rains a flood of 9 feet deep issaid to pour northwards through this defile.
			Two miles further on lies
Monasieb	6	71	or Um-el-Nasaib. Two wide-mouthed wells;water in one of them 8 feet down. A few hods. Trees and bushesgrowing close around; unsuitable place for watering beasts, andunfavourable for defence.
			Road good to
Um Sedeiri	3	74	Many wells here, mostly unused. Threewide-mouthed wells and one narrow well, newly opened in the sand,had water in them about 6 feet below ground level. The water in theformer was unfit for human consumption, but the camels drank itfreely; the water in the latter was good. After clearing away someof the mud and slime from the large wells water came fairly freely.Also obtained a constant supply of very good clear water by digging2 feet in one of the unused wells; the hods at these wells are notnumerous, and require repairing. I consider that any amount ofwater can be obtained here by a little digging; it is of goodquality, and appears to be about 6 feet below ground level. I wasinformed that there is water here all the year round.
			A great quantity of long coarse grassgrows round the wells and on each side of the river bed. The wellsare commanded from N. to S.E. by high ground from 60 to 30 feethigh, at distances of 500 to 150 yards from N. to S.E.; also fromW. by ground about 30 feet high, at distances from 80 to 100 yardsfrom S. to N. Some large trees and the long grass above-mentionedwould afford cover near to the wells.
			The road back to Um Tub (35 miles) isgood and open, with the exception of the 10 miles mentionedabove.
			The direct road Um Sedeiri to Korti (70miles) is good going, but no water.

114.—MEROWE to JAKDUL.

By Major Hon. M. G. Talbot, August, 1898.