What to eat and when

by Susanna Cocroft

The object of the direct application of the heat is to enable it to quickly penetrate to the center of the chop or steak so as to coagulate the albumin and prevent the escape of the water. Meat intended for broiling should be cut at least an inch thick, as otherwise it becomes too hard and dry in the process of broiling.

Meat containing much connective tissue, such as the neck, chuck, and rump, is not adapted to broiling, because it takes too long for this tissue to become gelatinized. It may be pan broiled, a little water added, and cooked slowly until done. Prepared in this way it is cheap, nourishing, and palatable.

Steak broiled in a skillet, especially round steak which has been pounded to assist in breaking the connective tissue, is often first dipped in seasoned flour, which is well worked into it. The flour absorbs the meat juices so that none of them are lost.

When broiling meats in a skillet the skillet must be very hot before the meat is placed on it, and as soon as one surface of the meat is seared, it should be turned to sear the other side. The skillet should be kept covered so as to retain the moisture.

Boiling. One important fact, too frequently overlooked, or, perhaps, not known by many cooks, is that when water has reached the boiling point its temperature cannot be further raised by increasing the heat applied. The addition of heat only increases the production of steam and causes the water to “boil away.” Therefore as soon as the water has begun to boil the gas may be turned down or the fire kept at just the level necessary to maintain the boiling. The food cooks just as soon and the fuel bills are lowered. Hard boiling has no greater effect on any food than moderate boiling.

When boiled meat is intended to be eaten—not merely boiled for soup—the water should be boiling when the meat is placed in it in order that the albumin on the surface may be immediately coagulated and prevent the escape of the nutrients into the water. It is impossible to make a rich broth and to have a juicy, highly flavored piece of boiled meat at the same time.

Meats used for boiling contain more connective tissue, therefore they require much longer cooking in order to gelatinize this tissue. They are not as rich in protein as are steaks.

Meat “shrinks” in boiling because of the escape of the water in the tissues into the water in which it is boiled. Meat may thus lose one-fourth to one-third of its weight and bulk.

Stewing. This differs from boiling in that the temperature is lower and the meat or vegetables are cut in pieces so that the water may come in contact with more of the surface thus aiding in the extraction of the juices.

The scum, which appears on the surface of a stew, is usually skimmed off and, as in the case of soups, much nutrition is lost. It should be retained, as it will disappear when the stew is thickened. It is usually removed from beef tea in order that it may not offend the eye or the capricious appetite of an invalid.