We may now return to a closer study of the largest of these formations, the great Kevir in Persia. This mud-lake, with a dry surface, measures 500 km. (310 miles) in length and 200 km. (124 miles) in width over its largest dimensions. Hedin estimates its area at 55,000 sq. km. (21,142 sq. miles) or the same as that of the great Lake Michigan on the boundary between the United States and Canada. Due to the continuous growth of the salt proportion through the inflow of Kevirs and through superficial evaporation a salt crust of varying thickness is formed near the surface of the lake. Hedin caused a hole to be cut with an iron bar. He first encountered a 10 cm. (3.9 in.) deep covering of clayey paste, and then the salt crust about 7 cm. (2.8 in.) thick resting on a semi-dry layer of clay with a depth of 15 cm. (5.9 in.). Farther below, softer strata of clay followed, becoming more watery the deeper he went. The iron bar carelessly wielded would have disappeared in the mire. Another investigator, Buhse, examined a piece of the crust, which when dry is fairly solid and of a yellowish-grey colour. One half consisted of sand (probably quartz-sand), one sixth of limestone, 6.1 per cent. oxide of iron (causing the yellow colour), 5.3 per cent. common salt, 2.5 per cent. sulphate of sodium, and 2.1 per cent. clay. Rain converts this surface layer into a plastic mass, which persistently sticks to the clothes of the traveller or to the bodies of the camels if they should slip and fall into the mud. Not the slightest trace of vegetation or of any life exists. On the shore of the mud-lake small flat elevations and depressions may be found; otherwise, the surface is as level as that of an ordinary lake.

The Kevir battles with the drifting sand as does the water in East Turkestan. The sand appears to gain in the contest. After storms, vast portions of the Kevir are covered with yellow desert sand. “If the climatic change in Persia continues in the present direction,” says Hedin, who, however, is dealing with large spans of time inasmuch as in his opinion no appreciable alterations have taken place since the invasions of Alexander the Great, “then it may be taken for granted that the slough of the Kevir will lose in moisture and afflux of water and in time will become more solid and that the drift sand with greater ease will gain foothold and territory. The final outcome of the physico-geographical transformation now in progress will no doubt be to convert the entire Kevir into a sand desert of the kind predominating in East Turkestan. And conversely we may infer that East Turkestan, once a part of the central Asiatic Mediterranean sea, in the course of time was filled with the finely divided products of disintegration, such as we now find in the Kevir, and further that its expanse of watery mud and clay finally dried and hardened to such an extent that it could support the load of the encroaching sand. That the extension of the sand formerly was smaller, is also borne out by the archæological discoveries in East Turkestan which several travellers besides myself have made. The hardpan laid bare in the ‘Bayirs’ of the Cherchen desert strongly reminds of the Kevir-ground. In both cases the same dark, fine powder forming a nearly plane surface. In both cases this material when mixed with water is transformed into a slough in which one hopelessly sinks, but in East Turkestan the water has receded to a greater depth and as rains are extremely rare travel all over the smooth ‘Bayir’-ground may be undertaken with impunity.”

These formations are of the greatest interest because they picture the changes taking place on a slowly desiccating planet. In 1858 the Geographical Society in Petrograd despatched an expedition under the command of Khanikoff to visit these regions. From Hedin’s work, Overland to India, from which the preceding quotation is taken, we borrow the following vivid description by Khanikoff: “At last, in the morning of April fourth, and during the most oppressive heat, we reached Bala-haus. At this place remnants of a ruined reservoir, long since bereft of its water, could be seen. The desert had here assumed the perfect character of the ‘the accursed land,’ which name it bears among the natives. Not the smallest tuft of grass, not a sign of animal life gladdened the eye, not a sound interrupted the deathlike, awful silence but that of the marching caravan.

“Because of the slow procession of the camels and the delay suffered when we lost our way, we only covered 25 km. (15.5 miles) in the night stage. After four hours’ rest we resumed our march and directed our steps toward the hills, called Kellehper and situated 20 km. (12.5 miles) from Bala-haus; they were plainly visible but positively seemed to take flight on our approach. I was somewhat ahead of the caravan and sat down at the foot of this sand-elevation; and never can I describe the feeling of weariness and of depression that I was unable to ward off as I looked into the ghastly solitude that engulfed me. Scattered clouds intercepted the rays of the sun, but the air was hot and heavy; the diffused light lent a monotonous and disconsolating hue to the greyish, burning surface of the desert; hardly a single variation of colour gave relief to the immense expanses that the vision embraced. The absolute immobility of every point in this mournful landscape, combined with the complete absence of any sound, produced an overwhelming depression of the spirit; one felt as set upon a place that had been struck inanimate for ever, a place to which organic life would never return safe through some terrible catastrophe of nature. One witnessed the beginning, so to speak, of the death-agony of our planet.”

If a drying out has taken place in these regions,—which seems probable from Hedin’s observation that the water in a Tibet lake, Lakker-tso, formerly reached a 133 m. (435 ft.) higher level than at present,—such a process is nevertheless not so obvious here as in the salt inland lakes, for instance the Great Salt Lake in Utah, the Dead Sea, and the Caspian Sea, where the saltness has greatly increased due to evaporation. Concerning the Great Salt Lake we know that even at a comparatively late time it had a much wider extension than now. Its water contains 22 per cent. common salt besides other compounds. The Dead Sea holds 25 per cent. salt. A very variable percentage is to be found in the Caspian Sea. Near the mouth of the Volga it is of course low, only 0.15, and increases southward to 1.32 at the peninsula Apsheron and to 5.63 in the bay of Kaidak. In the gulf of Karaboghaz on the Asiatic side it reaches 28.5 per cent. It has been computed that this gulf receives annually from the inrushing waters of the Caspian Sea 350,000 tons of salt which is partly deposited on its shores and bottom.

This desiccation, however, is a mere trifle when contrasted with the process by which the mighty salt deposits in Germany were formed. It took place, we believe, in a shallow bay extending southward from the Arctic Sea. As the salts, first gypsum, then common salt, and lastly more soluble potassium and magnesium compounds, crystallized by degrees new water masses entered from the sea. At the same time, the bottom of the gulf slowly receded, giving room for fresh evaporating floods. The salt layers deposited in this manner sometimes reach a depth of more than 1000 m. (about one half a mile). We can thus gain a conception of the immense quantities of water evaporated and the enormous time required therefor. The deposits would long ago have been carried away from their original place were it not for the fact that they finally were covered with a layer of slime nearly impervious to water. The most soluble salts, such as chloride of magnesium, have nevertheless been extracted to a great extent.

The extremes of aridity or humidity have of course not occurred during the brief time known to history. Of a special interest is the question in what direction the climate at present is tending. In this connection, Huntington has aroused great attention by propounding the theory that the earth is now in a period of rapid desiccation.

Judging by the testimony of geology, it seems beyond doubt that an age of humidity prevailed simultaneously with the ice-period in northern Europe, over several parts of the globe, in fact everywhere as far as we know except in Australia. This is clearly borne out by the higher levels of the lakes and their consequent greater extension in earlier days. So far as Tibet and Central Asia are concerned we have already mentioned this fact. But in America and Africa the humid period was even more patent. The Great Salt Lake has covered an area many times greater than at present as testify the picturesque terraces in its surroundings (compare [Fig. 10]). According to the researches by Passage, this period was also strongly pronounced in Africa. A large fresh-water body occupied the Congo basin, the Tsad lake had a far greater expansion than now, and mighty rivers traversed Sahara.

Fig. 10. Extension of the great Lake Bonneville in Utah, of which the Great Salt Lake is a remnant.