CHAPTER I
PAGE
Simla [1]
CHAPTER II
Departure from Srinagar [21]
CHAPTER III
The Road to Leh [35]
CHAPTER IV
The Last Preparations [46]
CHAPTER V
The Start for Tibet [60]
CHAPTER VI
To the Edge of the Tibetan Tableland [72]
CHAPTER VII
Over the Crest of the Karakorum [84]
CHAPTER VIII
To Lake Lighten [97]
CHAPTER IX
On the Lake in a Storm [106]
CHAPTER X
Death in the Jaws of Wolves—or Shipwreck [119]
CHAPTER XI
Great Losses [132]
CHAPTER XII
In Unknown Country [146]
CHAPTER XIII
Unfortunate Days [158]
CHAPTER XIV
In the Land of the Wild Yak [171]
CHAPTER XV
The First Nomads [181]
CHAPTER XVI
Our Fortunes on the Way to the Bogtsang-tsangpo [196]
CHAPTER XVII
Christmas in the Wilds [211]
CHAPTER XVIII
Ten Days on the Ice of Ngangtse-tso [223]
CHAPTER XIX
Driven Back [236]
CHAPTER XX
Onwards through the Forbidden Land [249]
CHAPTER XXI
Over the Trans-Himalaya [264]
CHAPTER XXII
To the Bank of the Brahmaputra [276]
CHAPTER XXIII
Down the Tsangpo by Boat—Entry into Shigatse [288]
CHAPTER XXIV
The New Year Festival [301]
CHAPTER XXV
The Tashi Lama [317]
CHAPTER XXVI
The Graves of the Pontiffs [329]
CHAPTER XXVII
Popular Amusements of the Tibetans [340]
CHAPTER XXVIII
Monks and Pilgrims [347]
CHAPTER XXIX
Walks in Tashi-lunpo—The Disposal of the Dead [361]
CHAPTER XXX
Our Life in Shigatse [374]
CHAPTER XXXI
Political Complications [388]
CHAPTER XXXII
Tarting-gompa and Tashi-gembe [402]
CHAPTER XXXIII
The Raga-tsangpo and the My-chu [415]
CHAPTER XXXIV
To Linga-gompa [427]

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
 1. Lord Minto, Viceroy of IndiaFrontispiece
 2. Colonel Sir Francis Younghusband, Commander of the English Expedition to Tibet, Resident in Kashmir[10]
 3. Colonel J. R. Dunlop Smith, Private Secretary to the Viceroy[10]
 4. Viceregal Lodge in Simla[12]
 5. Lady Minto and the Author on the Terrace of the Viceregal Lodge[14]
 6. Herbert, Viscount Kitchener of Khartum, Late Commander-in-Chief of the Indian Army[18]
 7. The Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir[22]
 8. Palace of H.H. the Maharaja of Kashmir in Srinagar[26]
 9. The Jhelam in Srinagar[28]
 10. The Start from Ganderbal[30]
 11. My Escort[30]
 12. My Three Puppies[32]
 13. Robert, the Eurasian[32]
 14. Ganpat Sing, the Rajput[32]
 15. Manuel, the Cook[32]
 16. In Front of Nedou’s Hotel in Srinagar[34]
 17. Some of our Mules[34]
 18. An Amateur Photographer photographed[34]
 19. The Road to Baltal[38]
 20. Kargil[40]
 21. Chhorten in Lamayuru[40]
 22. Church Music in Lamayuru[42]
 23. Portrait of a Lama[42]
 24. Portrait of a Lama[42]
 25. The Sumto Valley[44]
 26. Bridge of Alchi[44]
 27. Girl in Niemo[44]
 28, 29. Palace of the Kings of Ladak in Leh[44]
 30. Muhamed Isa[46]
 31. Guffaru[52]
 32. The Raja of Stok[56]
 33. Portal of the Palace in Leh[56]
 34. View over the Indus Valley from the Roof of the Palace in Leh[56]
 35. Lama of High Rank in Leh[56]
 36. Monuments to Stoliczka and Dalgleish, Leh[58]
 37. Religious Objects from Sanskar[60]
 38. Images of Gods. A miniature Chhorten on the right. Holy Books, Temple Vessels. On either side of the small Altar-table wooden blocks with which the Holy Books are printed[60]
 39. Tikze-gompa, Monastery in Ladak[62]
 40. Masked Lamas in the Court of Ceremonies in Hemis-gompa (Ladak)[64]
 41. Group of Masked Lamas in Hemis-gompa[64]
 42. From Singrul, looking towards the Pass, Chang-la[66]
 43. View from Sultak, August 17, 1906[66]
 44. Drugub[66]
 45. My old friend Hiraman from Ladak[70]
 46. Chiefs of Tankse and Pobrang; Muhamed Isa, the Caravan Leader, in the Background[70]
 47. The Way to the Marsimik-la[74]
 48. Spanglung[74]
 49. Spanglung[78]
 50. Camp near Pamzal[78]
 51. The Chang-chenmo and the Way to Gogra[78]
 52. Muhamed Isa in the River Chang-chenmo near Pamzal[80]
 53. Rabsang, Adul, Tsering, and Muhamed Isa[82]
 54. Our Horses at the Karakorum[82]
 55. In the Snow, N.E. of Chang-lung-yogma[86]
 56. My Tent[86]
 57. Lake Lighten[86]
 58a, 58b. Pantholops Antelope[90]
 59, 60. Ovis Ammon[90]
 61. A Gully at Camp 8 (Aksai-chin)[94]
 62. The hired Ladakis and the Provision Sacks in North-West Chang-tang[98]
 63. Namgyal with a Sack of Yak-dung[98]
 64. Shelter of Provision Sacks[100]
 65. Camp in a narrow Valley, Camp 41[100]
 66. Robert, Muhamed Isa, and two Servants by a Fire[100]
 67. The large piebald Yarkand Horse[104]
 68, 69. The Slain Yaks; Tundup Sonam, the Hunter on the left in 68[104]
 70. Rehim Ali, one of my Ladakis on the First Crossing of Tibet[108]
 71. Starting on a Voyage[110]
 72. In Peril on Lake Lighten[112]
 73. The Author and Rehim Ali pull the Boat out of the Waves up on to the Shore[116]
 74. Camp at the Yeshil-kul[118]
 75. The Pul-tso, looking East[118]
 76. Horses and Mules in open Country[118]
 77. Death in the Jaws of Wolves—or Shipwreck[122]
 78. A Dangerous Situation on the Yeshil-kul. In Moonshine[126]
 79. At Deasy’s Camp[132]
 80. Afternoon Tea in the open Air[132]
 81. Melting Snow for Drinking-Water[132]
 82. Preparations for Dinner at Camp 41[152]
 83. The Author, Robert, and Rehim Ali attacked by a wounded Yak[170]
 84. Rehim Ali falls to the Ground and thus rescues us from the furious Yak[174]
 85, 86. The First Tibetans[180]
 87. Smoking Camp-fires in the Heart of Chang-tang[186]
 88. Our Yaks, bought from the First Tibetans[186]
 89. “Where are you going?” they asked me[200]
 90. Near the Dangra-yum-tso[216]
 91, 92, 93. On the Ngangtse-tso[226]
 94. In a Snowstorm on the Ice of the Ngangtse-tso[234]
 95. Hlaje Tsering and his Travelling Companion, a Lama, at my Tent on the Ngangtse-tso[242]
 96. Servants of Hlaje Tsering[252]
 97. Messenger with Letters from Home, and his Travelling Companion[252]
 98. Hlaje Tsering setting out[252]
 99. Three Tibetans saluting[264]
100. Pass of La-rock. Mani Heap with Fluttering Prayer-Streamers[274]
101. On the Bank of the Tsangpo (Brahmaputra)[274]
102. The Tsangpo with Floating Ice[282]
103. The Valley of the Tsangpo above Shigatse[282]
104. House in the Village of Rungma[286]
105. Garden of the Tashi Lama in the Village of Tanak[286]
106. Ferry-Boats[290]
107. Pilgrims on the Way to Tashi-lunpo[290]
108. Court of Religious Ceremonies in Tashi-lunpo[296]
109. Religious Decorations on the Roofs of Tashi-lunpo to exorcise Evil Spirits[296]
110. The Upper Balcony of the Court of Ceremonies in Tashi-lunpo[300]
111, 112. The Profanum Vulgus at the New Year Festival in Shigatse[304]
113. Lama with Shell-Trumpet[306]
114. Lama with Flute used in Religious Services[306]
115, 116, 117. Lamas in Dancing Masks[308]
118. View of Tashi-lunpo[310]
119. Street in Tashi-lunpo, with Lamas[312]
120. Street in Tashi-lunpo[314]
121. The Labrang, the Palace of the Tashi Lama[316]
122. Interior of the Palace of the Tashi Lama[322]
123. View of a Part of Tashi-lunpo, with the Façade of a Mausoleum of a Grand Lama[324]
124. Façade of the Mausoleum of the First Tashi Lama. The Court of Ceremonies in the Foreground[326]
125, 126. Interiors of two Mausoleums of Grand Lamas in Tashi-lunpo[328]
127. The Kanjur-lhakang in Tashi-lunpo[330]
128. Portal of the Mausoleum of the Third Tashi Lama in Tashi-lunpo[332]
129. The Namgyal-lhakang with the Figure of Tsong Kapa, in Tashi-lunpo Coloured[334]
130. Reading Lama with Dorche (Thunderbolt) and Drilbu (Prayer-Bell)[336]
131. Lama with Prayer-Drum[336]
132. Entrance to the Tomb of the Fifth Tashi Lama in Tashi-lunpo Coloured[338]
133. Staircase to the Mausoleum of the Fifth Tashi Lama in Tashi-lunpo[340]
134. Shigatse-dzong (the Fortress)[342]
135. Shigatse, Capital of the Province of Chang (11,880 feet)[344]
136. Chinese New Year Festival in my Garden[346]
137. Some of the Members in the Shooting Competition at the New Year Festival[346]
138. Popular Diversion in Shigatse[348]
139. Nepalese performing Symbolical Dances at the New Year Festival[350]
140. Dancing Nepalese at the New Year Festival, Tashi-lunpo[352]
141. The Kitchen in Tashi-lunpo[354]
142. Colonnade in Tashi-lunpo[354]
143. Lamas drinking Tea in the Court of Ceremonies in Tashi-lunpo[358]
144. Part of Shigatse[362]
145. The Tashi Lama returning to the Labrang after a Ceremony[362]
146. The Panchen Rinpoche, or Tashi Lama[366]
147. Portrait of the Tashi Lama[370]
148. Lamas with Copper Tea-pots[374]
149. Female Pilgrim from Nam-tso and Mendicant Lama[374]
150. The Great Red Gallery of Tashi-lunpo[376]
151. Chhorten in Tashi-lunpo[378]
152. Portal in Tashi-lunpo[380]
153. Group of Lamas in Tashi-lunpo[380]
154. Lecture in Tashi-lunpo[382]
155. Female Pilgrims from the Nam-tso[384]
156. Tibetans in Shigatse[384]
157, 158, 159. Tibetan Girl and Women in Shigatse[386]
160. A Chinaman in Shigatse[388]
161. A Tibetan in Shigatse[388]
162. A Lama in Tashi-lunpo[388]
163. Door-keeper in Tsong Kapa’s Temple[388]
164. Dancing Boys with Drums[390]
165. Wandering Nun with a Tanka depicting a Religious Legend and singing the Explanation. (In our Garden at Shigatse.)[394]
166. Gandän-chöding-gompa, a Nunnery in Ye[394]
167. Duke Kung Gushuk, Brother of the Tashi Lama[398]
168. The little Brother of the Tashi Lama, the Wife of Kung Gushuk, and her five Servants[402]
169. The little Brother of His Holiness with a Servant[404]
170. The Author drawing the Duchess Kung Gushuk[406]
171. Major W. F. O’Connor, British Trade Agent in Gyangtse, now Consul in Seistan[408]
172. Captain C. G. Rawling[408]
173, 174. Tarting-gompa[410]
175. Linga-gompa[410]
176. Lung-Ganden-gompa near Tong[410]
177. Inscription and Figure of Buddha carved in Granite near the Village of Lingö[410]
178. Tarting-gompa[412]
179. Sego-chummo Lhakang in Tarting-gompa[412]
180. Bridge to the Monastery Pinzoling (on the right)[414]
181. Group of Tibetans in the Village of Tong[418]
182. Inhabitants of the Village of Govo[418]
183. Lama in Tong[422]
184. Old Tibetan[422]
185. Strolling Musicians[424]
186. The Handsome Woman, Putön[426]
187. On the My-chu near Linga[430]
188. Village and Monastery of Linga[430]

MAPS

1. The Latest Map of Tibet.
2. Carte Générale du Thibet ou Bout-tan.
3. Map of Southern Tibet (Hodgson).
4. The Source-Region of the Brahmaputra (Nain Sing).
5. Sketch-Map of Webber’s Route in 1866.
6. Saunders’ Map of South Tibet.
7. The Source-Region of the Brahmaputra (Ryder).
(At end of Volume.)

CHAPTER I