WITH 388 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS, WATER-
COLOUR SKETCHES, AND DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR
AND 10 MAPS

IN TWO VOLUMES
VOL. II

MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED
ST. MARTIN’S STREET, LONDON
1910

First Edition 1909
Reprinted 1910

CONTENTS

CHAPTER XXXV
PAGE

Immured Monks

 [1]
CHAPTER XXXVI

Over the Chang-la-Pod-la

 [12]
CHAPTER XXXVII

Targo-gangri and the Shuru-tso

 [25]
CHAPTER XXXVIII

To the Outlet of the Chaktak-tsangpo in the Brahmaputra

 [38]
CHAPTER XXXIX

Muhamed Isa’s Death

 [52]
CHAPTER XL

Along Byways to Tradum

 [64]
CHAPTER XLI

A Peep into Nepal

 [77]
CHAPTER XLII

In Search of the Source of the Brahmaputra

 [89]
CHAPTER XLIII

The Source of the Sacred River—A Departure

 [99]
CHAPTER XLIV

A Night on Manasarowar

 [110]
CHAPTER XLV

More Lake Voyages

 [122]
CHAPTER XLVI

A Stormy Voyage over the Holy Lake

 [133]
CHAPTER XLVII

On the Roof of the Gossul Monastery

 [144]
CHAPTER XLVIII

Our Last Days on Tso-mavang

 [154]
CHAPTER XLIX

Adventures on Langak-tso

 [166]
CHAPTER L

The Source of the Sutlej

 [178]
CHAPTER LI

A Pilgrimage round Kang-rinpoche

 [189]
CHAPTER LII

Om Mani Padme Hum

 [200]
CHAPTER LIII

The Discovery of the Source of the Indus

 [207]
CHAPTER LIV

A Resolution

 [215]
CHAPTER LV

A New Chapter

 [226]
CHAPTER LVI

Up to the Heights of Dapsang

 [237]
CHAPTER LVII

On the Roof of the World

 [248]
CHAPTER LVIII

Forty Degrees below Zero

 [258]
CHAPTER LIX

In the Snow

 [267]
CHAPTER LX

Death of the Last Veteran

 [272]
CHAPTER LXI

Thirty Days of Storm

 [282]
CHAPTER LXII

Adventures of Ourselves and Puppy in Nagrong

 [292]
CHAPTER LXIII

Through the Highlands of Bongba

 [302]
CHAPTER LXIV

Tsongpun Tashi

 [313]
CHAPTER LXV

Buptsang-tsangpo, one of the Largest Rivers of theHeart of Tibet

 [321]
CHAPTER LXVI

In the Robbers’ Paradise

 [332]
CHAPTER LXVII

April 24

 [343]
CHAPTER LXVIII

His Excellency the Governor of Saka

 [353]
CHAPTER LXIX

Kamba Tsenam, Father of the Robbers

 [364]
CHAPTER LXX

The Seventh Crossing of the Trans-Himalaya—To theHeavenly Lake of the Throne Mountain

 [374]
CHAPTER LXXI

Another Journey across the White Patch

 [385]
CHAPTER LXXII

The Last Days in Unknown Country

 [395]
CHAPTER LXXIII

The Trans-Himalaya

 [401]
CHAPTER LXXIV

Simla

 [415]

INDEX

 [425]

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
189. Sven HedinFrontispiece
190. Hermit’s Grotto near the Chang-la-Pod-la[12]
191. Robert and Rabsang by the Ice on the Way to the Chang-la-Pod-la[18]
192. A Lhadse decked with Mani-Stones and Prayer-Streamers[18]
193, 194. Nomads south of Targo-gangri[24]
195. Mendicant Lama blowing on a Human Bone[24]
196. Tibetan Boy[24]
197. Kubi-gangri from Camp 201[26]
198. Targo-gangri from a Hill near Camp 150[26]
199. The Chomo-uchong Group from the Kinchen-la, May 23, 1907[26]
200. Lundup’s Squadron. To the left a part of Targo-gangri, Camp 150[28]
201. Lundup (on horseback to the left) and his Retinue prevent me from proceeding to the Dangra-yum-tso[30]
202, 203, 204. Targo-gangri from the South[32]
205. The Shuru-tso, with Targo-gangri in the Background[34]
206. On the Upper Raga-tsangpo[36]
207. Angden-la[36]
208. Chomo-uchong from the east[36]
209, 210. Angden-la, a Pass on the Trans-Himalaya[38]
211. Manis on the Way to the Angden-la[40]
212. Chomo-uchong from Lamlung-la[44]
213. Panorama from the Ta-la. The Brahmaputra Valley and the Himalayas in the Background[44]
214. Beggar at Tashi-gembe[50]
215. Young Tibetan at the Mouth of the Chaktak-tsangpo[50]
216. Wandering Lama with a Wooden Glove in his Hand, such as is used to protect the Hands in the Prostration Pilgrimage round the Holy Mountain Kailas[50]
217. The Corpse of Muhamed Isa[54]
218. Muhamed Isa’s Funeral Procession[56]
219, 220, 221. The Interment of Muhamed Isa[58]
222. Woman at the Mouth of the Chaktak-tsangpo in the Tsangpo[64]
223. Tibetan of Saka[64]
224. Lama in Saka-dzong[64]
225, 226, 227, 228. Tibetan Boys and Girls of Saka and Tradum[70]
229. Woman of Nyuku[74]
230. Two Tibetans[74]
231. The Gova of Tuksum[74]
232. Girl at Pasa-guk[74]
233. View from the Kore-la towards the south-west[78]
234. Gulam Razul’s Tents in Gartok[82]
235. Landscape in Upper Nepal[82]
236. A Chhorten in Nepal[84]
237. Group of Tibetan Women[84]
238. Women in the Village of Namla[88]
239. Inhabitants of the Village of Namla[88]
240. Lama in my Boat[92]
241. Loading the Boat with Boxes on crossing the Brahmaputra[92]
242. Panorama of Kubi-gangri and the Langta-chen Glacier, with the Source of the Brahmaputra (from a height of 16,453 feet, July 13, 1907)[102]
243, 244, 245. The Mountains at the Source of the Brahmaputra[106]
246. Tibetans on the Bank of the Soma-tsangpo[110]
247. Group of Natives of Langmar[110]
248. Robert in the Boat[118]
249. Sheep-shearing at Tugu-gompa on Manasarowar[124]
250. The God of the Lake rising from Tso-mavang[130]
251. Temple Hall of the Lake-God of Tso-mavang[134]
252. Chenresi’s Image in Tugu-gompa[134]
253. The Lhakang Hall in Tugu-gompa[138]
254. Lama with Prayer-Drum[140]
255. Lama before the Temple Door in Tugu-gompa[140]
256. Yanggo-gompa[146]
257. Interior of the Temple, Tugu[146]
258. A Dreamer. Lama in Yanggo-gompa on Manasarowar[148]
259. The old Nun in Yanggo-gompa[150]
260. The Holy Lake Manasarowar from Tugu-gompa, with Kailas in the BackgroundColoured [152]
261. Boy on the Upper Tsangpo[162]
262. The young Prior of Langbo-nan[162]
263. Temple Vessels in Chiu-gompa[166]
264. Two Children in Shigatse[166]
265. Kailas behind Nyandi-gompa[170]
266. My Pack-Sheep[170]
267. Part of Kailas[174]
268. Kailas from Diri-pu[182]
269. Confluence of the Two Arms of the Indus[182]
270. Tibetan Female Pilgrims at Kailas[188]
271. The Gova by whose help the Source of the Indus was discovered (seated) and Tibetans at Kailas[194]
272. Gulam Razul beside Bales of Chinese Brick-Tea[198]
273. Tibetan Tent[202]
274. Monastery of Gar-gunsa[202]
275. Images at Chushut[202]
276. The Policemen from Simla[206]
277. My Boat on the Indus[206]
278. Ladaki Women[206]
279, 280, 281. At the Monastery Door in Tashi-gang between Gartok and Ladak[210]
282. Dancing Women in Chushut, a Village on my Way back to Ladak[212]
283. Old Woman[216]
284. Lama in Chushut[216]
285. On the Way to Tankse[220]
286. In the Indus Valley on the Way to Ladak[220]
287. The new Horses and Mules at Drugub[220]
288. Robert in Winter Dress[224]
289. Abdul Kerim, the new Caravan Leader[226]
290, 291, 292. Lobsang, Gulam, Kutus—my last trusty Followers[228]
293. Beggars[230]
294. Abdul Kerim’s new Tent[230]
295. My Brown Puppy with my Cook, Tsering[234]
296, 297, 298. My White Ladaki Horse[234]
299. Panorama from Camp 422, Bongba[238]
300. Panorama from Camp 277, Shyok Valley[238]
301. View from Camp 307Coloured  [258]
302. The small salt Lake south of Camp 309Coloured  [258]
303. Horses going to drink at the Lake near Camp 310. Abdul Kerim on the leftColoured  [258]
304. Mountain north-east of Camp 310; the freshwater Lake in the ForegroundColoured  [258]
305. Storm Clouds over the Snowy Mountains south of Camp 312Coloured  [258]
306. Camp 307[262]
307. Camp 333. The Beginning of a Storm[262]
308. Camp 335. Lemchung-tso, looking east[262]
309. Camp 401. Kanchung-gangri from the north[262]
310. My Dying Pony[264]
311. Lost beyond Recovery[268]
312. “If this continues a few days longer, we are lost”[270]
313, 314, 315, 316, 317. Panoramas from the Camps 318, 333, 335, 359, 360; in the last two, Sha-kangsham[284]
318. The Author as a Shepherd[298]
319, 320, 321. The Summits of Lunpo-gangri from Camps 379, 381, and 383[326]
322. Wrestling[332]
323. Two Guides[332]
324. Boy with Hat[332]
325. Shepherd Boy[332]
326. Sonam Ngurbu, Chief of the Chokchu Province[334]
327. Dorche Tsuen, Governor of the Saka Province[334]
328. Man with a singular Cap, in Sonam Ngurbu’s Escort[334]
329. Tagla Tsering, the Chief who refused to let me go to the Dangra-yum-tso[334]
330. Travelling Ladaki Merchant in West Tibet[340]
331. Oang Gye, Son of the Governor of Saka[340]
332. Panchor, the Yak-slayer, my Guide on the Journey to the Teri-nam-tso[340]
333. Woman of Yumba-matsen[340]
334. Tibetans with Yaks[344]
335. Dorche Tsuen on the March[344]
336. Farewell Entertainment for the Tibetans on May 5, 1908[348]
337, 338, 339, 340. The Dancers at the Camp-fire: Tubges, Kunchuk, Suen[350]
341. Inner Court of Selipuk[354]
342. Dorche Tsuen and Ngavang on Horseback[354]
343. The Author in Tibetan Dress[358]
344, 345. Soldiers of the Garrison of Saka-dzong, belonging to our Escort[360]
346. Armed Tibetan from the Country between the Teri-nam-tso and the Dangra-yum-tso[360]
347. Boy with small Gun on the southern Shore of the Teri-nam-tso[360]
348. Trooper of the Escort[364]
349. Tibetan of Teri-nam-tso[364]
350. Young Shepherd of Bongba[364]
351. Guests at the Opening of my Tent on the Bank of the Teri-nam-tso[366]
352. The Yaks fording the River Soma-tsangpo[366]
353. Nima Tashi, Commander of the Government Escort on the way to the Teri-nam-tsoColoured [368]
354. Nuns of MendongColoured [368]
355. A High Lama of ChokchuColoured [368]
356. The Prior of SelipukColoured [368]
357. Two Lamas of Mendong[370]
358. My Sheep crossing the River Soma-tsangpo[370]
359. Village below Lunkar-gompa on the Tarok-tsoColoured [374]
360. Mendong Monastery west of the Teri-nam-tsoColoured [374]
361. Selipuk Monastery south-west of the Nganglaring-tso Coloured [374]
362. Holiday Costumes and Ornaments of Tibetan Women of Kyangrang in the Trans-HimalayaColoured [374]
363. Crossing the Kangsham River[376]
364. The Village of Lunkar[378]
365. Group of Tibetans at the Teri-nam-tso[378]
366. The Village of Lunkar from the Temple Hill[382]
367. The southern Shore of Manasarowar with grazing Yaks[382]
368. Lunkar-gompa[386]
369. Selipuk-gompa[386]
370. The Trans-Himalaya from Abuk-la[388]
371. Storm over the Trans-Himalaya[388]
372. Sonam Ngurbu and his Followers on Horseback[392]
373. Some of our Horses on the Way to Kamba Tsenam’s Tent[392]
374. Lama of Chokchu taking leave of the Prior of Selipuk[396]
375. Lama of Chokchu on Horseback[396]
376, 377. Boys sitting[398]
378. Young Lama[398]
379. Old Woman[398]
380. Colonel T. G. Montgomerie[404]
381. Abbé Huc[404]
382. Altar Table with Images of Gods in Mangnang-gompa Coloured [406]
383. The Author in Tibetan Costume at the Mission Station in Poo[408]
384. The last Members of the last Expedition in Poo[412]
385. My Puppy[416]
386. Takkar in his new Home with the Missionaries in Poo[416]
387. Simla[418]
388. The last Members of the Expedition at the Entrance of the Viceregal Lodge in Simla[420]