Our model now draws near to its completion. We had arrived at a stage ready for the roof, but stopped for the preparation of the chimneys, in order that when the roof was completed, they might be at once fixed in their respective places. The roof may be either scored, or gauged with paper strips overlapped. The groundwork for either method will be prepared in the same manner. First cut, as if for a lid or top to fit the inside of the model, a strong piece of cardboard; let it be just so that it will slip into its place between the walls, but be prevented slipping down by the strips or ledge on the level of the gutter, as described for Greenhouse, page [73].
DETAILS No. 4.
Fig. 1.
Fig. 2.
B Bottom piece. C Cornice. L Ledge. S S S Slates. T Top piece. W Wall.
The cross hatching shows the number of separate pieces the cornice is composed of.
Fig. 3.
ROOF PLAN.
Sections must now be taken in various parts, through the roof, to ascertain the length of the respective sides. Thus if the angle A B C (see fig. 1, page [85]) represents the rake of the roof, the length of the side will be found from A to B and B to C. The sides thus formed must be splayed to fit at the valleys, apex, &c., and at the base splayed and fixed to the top piece on which the roof plan has been drawn, observing to leave space enough all round for the gutter. If the pieces on which the sections have been drawn are cut out, they will answer for internal stays to the roof.
The roof plan is given upon page [85], fig. 3, as also an outline section for the finishing of the roof, fig. 2, page [85]; it will explain itself. The lead flat will be formed by the bottom piece, but it must be covered by a paper resembling in tint that of the lead itself. When the groundwork of the roof is completed, it must be covered in imitation of slates by one or other of the previously-mentioned methods. We will, however, describe both, leaving the reader to use his own judgment as to which he may adopt, our preference being for the strips of overlapping paper. In the simple scoring, proceed to cut out of the slate tinted paper pieces accurately fitting to the groundwork of the roof, then with the knife handle score these sides along, as you would ink in the roof lines in a drawing, closer at the ridge, becoming wider at the base, and parallel to each other. The latter by cutting layers of paper, gauged decreasing in size as before directed, fixing them to the groundwork of the roof beginning at the base, and overlapping them about 1⁄16th of an inch; after all, submitting to the press. The roof assumed to be finished, affix the chimneys, generally make good all imperfections, &c., and the model is ready for removal to its final destination; cut therefore the paper it was built upon from the board, and also tear from the bottom edges the paper that may have adhered to it, holding it by the wood stay.
Prepare a piece of dry wood about two or three inches wider all round than the building itself, cover it with cloth or velvet, the latter preferable, the best colour green, and cut a small groove out of the upper edge; this is to receive the glass shade, which construct thus: procure five pieces of glass, the sizes rendered necessary by your stand to form a square or oblong shade, and fasten all together by means of strips of thin paper and gum (the dull gold paper to be procured in sheets at any of the artists’ repositories will look best) at their edges. The model must now be secured to the stand, for which purpose the piece of wood mentioned at page [56] was inserted, a hole is drilled through the bottom of the stand, and a screw passed through it into the wood stay. Do not screw the model down too tightly upon the stand, or you may force away the stay from its fastenings and destroy your work.