When the whey draining from the curd has a decided sour-milk taste, the accumulation is removed, the curd mill is set on the end of the vat, and the large square pieces of curd thrown into the hopper and run through. The mill tears them into pieces varying in size from that of a kernel of corn to a butternut. When ground, two pounds and an eighth of salt are sprinkled over the curd and stirred in. (Considering the dry state of curd, this is really heavy salting—heavier than three pounds thrown on the dripping curd, in the usual manner.) The salting done, the curd is allowed to stand, with occasional stirring, as long as convenient—indeed, the longer the better. It will take no harm after being salted; and if a curd is at all tainted, or is made of sour-milk, and is rather soft, it should be allowed to stand as long as possible, and permit the hands to get it to press and ready to bandage the same afternoon or evening.
This is the simple process, as we saw it at Spring Creek factory. The pressing and curing are not essentially different from the common methods. Thorough pressing, however, is considered essential; and so is an equable temperature in the drying room—which, by the way, Mr. Macadam did not have the advantage of, as the building was erected on economical principles, with a very primitive but thorough system of ventilation—not under his direction or supervision, however.
With sour-milk, Mr. Macadam hastens every stage of the process, up to the time of salting. When the requisite degree of acid is developed, even though the heat may not have gone above 90°, and the curd is very soft, the whey is drawn off, and the curd repeatedly cut into small squares with a knife, to facilitate the separation of the whey. The curd is ground, and the salt thrown on—in less quantity—when the whey that drains off has the proper sour milk taste. It is then allowed to stand in the vat, and drain and harden, as long as the work of the factory will permit. If it can remain a couple of days in the press, it is an advantage.
The curds prepared in the manner we have been describing for good milk, does not have a very promising look to an American cheese-maker. It is tough and stringy, and quite elastic. At least, such was the appearance of the curd which we saw. It is proper to state, however, that it was made of tainted milk, and the taint was quite marked in the curd. This, Mr. Macadam told us, was the condition of most of the milk and curds for some weeks past in that factory; yet, the taint did not show in the cheese on the ranges, except in a few instances where the curd had been salted a little too sweet, as he thought.
The great secret of his success, he seemed to think, was in getting rid of the whey early, in allowing a good deal of acid to develop, especially in tainted curds, in airing the curds and allowing the gases to escape, and in salting well.
Mr. Macadam's cheese, as a general thing, tried splendidly. It was firm, flaky, buttery and fine-flavored. His opinion is, that American cheese is, as a general rule, salted too sweet and too low, for the purpose of having it cure quick for market; but it lacks good keeping qualities, and verifies the old adage, "Soon ripe, soon rotten." It is hard to overcome this desire for quick returns; but he would recommend those who wish to improve American cheese, to sour rather more, salt a little more, and color a little less—as little as the market will allow—as coloring is believed to be positively injurious to quality. The tendency should be in these directions, in order to make a slower curing, better keeping and better flavored article.
But, it must be borne in mind, that Mr. Macadam has in view his own process of manufacture, and that allowances must be made for different modes. Let each be ready to receive hints, make his own experiments, and abide by his own decisions.
FOOTNOTE:
[A] "A good cheese is rich, without being greasy, with a sweet, nutty flavor; clear, equal color throughout; of a compact, solid texture, without being waxy; firm, yet melting easily in the mouth, and leaving no rough flavor on the palate."