Fig. 154
The correct method of binding is shown in [Fig. 154], where it will be observed that the binding of two succeeding weft shots does not fall on the same warp thread, and that the binding dot will be covered by the floats of the preceding and succeeding weft shots when the weft is knocked up close. There are other squares on which the binding dots might be placed as well as those in [Fig. 154], one check to the left of where they are being frequently used. A stripe pattern, as [Fig. 152], can be put upon design paper with each line representing two cards, and be twilled to give the texture in [Fig. 154], as is shown in [Fig. 155].
When cutting this the cutter cuts the shaded squares and black dots for the first card, and for the second card he cuts white and crossed squares on the stripe B, and the solid black squares on the stripe A, which it will be seen is exactly the same as cutting the black for the first two lines of [Fig. 154].
Fig. 155
When painting the design the shaded squares may be red, the black ones black, the black dots yellow or white, and the crosses green; or any other convenient colours may be adopted. It will be observed that in Figs. 152 and 155, where the raised and sunk twills come together at the junction of the two stripes, there are no binding dots on the two threads lying beside each other. It is not necessary to have any binding for these threads, as the two wefts crossing bind them sufficiently. Any desired figure may be woven on cloth on this principle, which is a very convenient one, as the colours can be so readily changed, and three or more colours may be used as well as two; but in this case there is generally a right and a wrong side to the cloth, the body of the wefts being at the back and each colour brought through to the face to form the figure. Instead of the body of the weft, or that portion not required for the figure, being at the back of the cloth, it may be in the centre of the warp, and an equally good face made on both sides of the cloth; but this requires more wefting, makes a thicker and harder cloth, and is more expensive and more troublesome to weave. Warp figuring may be done in exactly the same way as described for weft figuring, and the pattern turned sideways shows how it would be for warp; the only difference in the work all through is to treat the warp as explained for weft. Of course, in the designing and card-cutting, cutting two cards, one the reverse of the other, from a design painted as if for a damask, would not fall in, but the designs that are wrought fully out on the design paper would be all right. A contraction of the work similar to cutting two cards from one line of the design paper would have to be sought for in the mounting in the first place, and in the card-cutting, to suit it.
Fig. 156