Jacquard Weaving and Designing

by T. F. Bell

Fig. 165

In this example the figure is so small as not to require binding dots over it, but for a large figure the ground weft threads would require to be bound up at the back of the figure in the same way that the figure threads are bound up at the back of the ground in the design given. The figure wefts might also require to be bound at both face and back. On the design these binding marks would be dotted over the figure in the same way as they are dotted over the ground on the design given, using any suitable texture that may be desired.

To make the cutting clear, five lines of the pattern ([Fig. 165]) are put upon design paper in [Fig. 165a], as they would be cut on the cards, beginning with the ground weft, olive and red following, in all making 15 lines or 15 cards. This cutting would make the upper side of the cloth in the loom the right side or face; but it may, in some cases, be desirable to weave the cloth with the face down to avoid heavy lifts in the harness. This pattern would suit for a warp of about 50 threads of warp per inch, and say 60 to 80 shots per inch of each colour.

Fig. 165a

For the convenience of the designer and card-cutter, a much better plan of working this class of fabric is to have an additional binding warp, which may be in heddles or in a front row of the harness. This warp can work plain twill or satin as required, and, being light and openly set, can bind the back weft up and the face weft down, or the face may be bound by the warp in the harness and the back bound by the binding weft; but in this case there should be a fine thread of weft thrown in every fourth pick, which should pass over the warp in the harness, or a portion of it, and under that in the heddles, so as to bind both warps together. In this case the twilling dots on the design are omitted, which simplifies the cutting and designing of the pattern. If the face is to be twilled with the harness warp, the dots for binding must, of course, be put on the design, or the figure only may be twilled on the design, and let the ground be bound by the binders. Shafts mounted in this way may be wrought from tappets if the loom is mounted with them, or may be wrought by strong hooks at each side of the jacquard and sunk with springs. The principle of working fabrics of this description has been given in detail, as from it many other varieties can be wrought out, and any number of shuttles used to suit the colours wanted.