Fig. 14a
Whether this machine was Jacquard’s invention or not, I have not been able to ascertain; but Gilroy states that Jacquard’s first machines were made with cords and trap boards, like Cross’s counterpoise machine. It is also recorded that William Jennings, of Bethnal Green, invented a machine, similar to the above, about 1830, as an improvement on the jacquard, on account of its simplicity, as the latter appears to have given the weavers some trouble, and notice was taken of his machine by the Society of Arts.
Fig. 15
Machines similar to the above are still in use for hand-loom work, and answer very well. They have also been used for power looms, but the cords do not stand the friction long. As at present made about Glasgow, the cylinders of these machines work on slide rods, and receive their motion from the rising of the trap board, same as the cylinders in jacquards are sometimes wrought by the rising of the griffe with what is known as the ‘swan neck’ motion. The spring board at the ends of the needles is held back by a spring and drawn in by the cylinder frame as it moves outwards, which brings all the needles forward, and the cords into the saw cuts in the trap board, or comb as it is frequently called. The knots on the cords for these machines are made as at B, [Fig. 15], which, when drawn tight, are as shown at A. The cord is a good twisted cord, such as whipcord, and the holes in the trapboard are about 3/16 in. in diameter, which the knots on the cords must pass freely through. The upper ends of the cords pass through a perforated board on the top of the machine, and another cord is drawn through loops on their ends, which prevents them from being drawn through the holes.
CHAPTER II
JACQUARD MACHINES
The jacquard machine was introduced into England about 1818 and came into general use from 1824 to 1832. It was introduced into Scotland about 1824. [Fig. 16] is a representation of the early form of jacquard, and of course intended for hand-loom work. Although the present machines for power-loom work are very different in make, nearly all the working parts as here used are to be found in different machines at present working, or still being made, though the best machine makers have adopted newer and better principles for fast working and withstanding wear and tear. Fig. 16a is a view of the interior of the machine. The working of the machine will be explained further on; only those parts that will not be given in the new machines will now be noticed. The griffe or frame for raising the hooks is lifted by the straps A, A, [Fig. 16], which are attached to the pulleys B, B, and a cord C over a pulley on the same shaft as B, B, is attached to a treadle beneath the loom. As the weaver presses down this treadle the griffe is raised, and when the treadle is released the griffe falls of its own weight. The cylinder is moved out and in by the pulley E, fastened on the bent iron bar, attached to the frame which carries the cylinder, when the griffe rises and falls. D, D is a frame which lies in the turned-up portion of the hooks; only a few hooks are shown, and the outer bars of the frame. There should be a bar in the frame for each row of hooks. This frame rises up and down with the hooks, the turn on the ends of which must be of such length that when the frame is raised by the hooks lifted by the griffe, it will not be raised out of the turns on those that are left down. This frame is for the purpose of preventing the hooks from turning round, so that the turns on the upper end of them, as shown at A, A, Fig. 16a, cannot get out of position to be caught by the blades or crossbars of the griffe. The lower ends of the hooks rest on a perforated board as shown in Fig. 16a, and tail cords are looped on them and pass through the perforated board as shown. To these cords is fastened the neck of the harness. Machines with these perforated boards and frames to keep the hooks in position are still (1890) being made in Yorkshire. In Fig. 16a is shown a section through the spring box B. This box contains a spiral spring for each of the horizontal needles, the ends of which press against the springs, which allow them to yield or move back as the cards press on their points; but recover them again when the card is moved away by the cylinder. Similar spring-boxes are now used.