| CHAPTER | PAGE | |
| I. | INTRODUCTION | [1] |
| II. | JACQUARD MACHINES | [27] |
| III. | FULL-HARNESS MOUNTINGS | [69] |
| IV. | DESIGNING AND DRAUGHTING | [110] |
| V. | CARD-CUTTING AND LACING | [139] |
| VI. | SPECIAL JACQUARDS AND HARNESSES | [155] |
| VII. | GAUZE | [196] |
| VIII. | DOUBLE CLOTH | [233] |
| IX. | TAPESTRY AND PILE WORK | [255] |
| X. | CARPETS | [264] |
| XI. | LAPPETS AND SWIVELS | [294] |
| INDEX | [301] |
JACQUARD WEAVING AND DESIGNING
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
Though the term ‘jacquard weaving’ is properly applied to work done by the jacquard machine, it will here be taken to apply to all harness weaving, or work that extends beyond the range of shafts, or leaves of heddles.
The question arises, When is the limit to the number of shafts that ought to be used reached? It apparently used to be when no more could be got into the loom, as up to ninety-six shafts were used; and this seems to be quite enough for any weaver to get the yarn through, or for any loom to hold, but it must be remembered that at present the appliances are much more suited to the work than they formerly were; and now, except in woollen or worsted goods, where it is desirable to use shafts on account of their firmness in comparison with that of a harness, from twelve to sixteen shafts are as many as it is generally thought desirable to have in a power loom. I have seen thirty-five shafts, all in one tier or set, working diaper very conveniently in a hand loom, and more than double that number of leaves working worsted in a power loom; but whether the latter was desirable, or not, I must leave to the judgment of the manufacturer who possessed it.
Many ingenious inventions have been made for the purpose of simplifying the working of a large number of shafts, but as a description of them would be out of place here, we may pass on to the draw loom, which appears to be the first form of harness of which we have an accurate description. How the cloths of Babylon were woven, in which
Men’s figured counterfeits so like have been