Number of cards—
This will not allow the loom to run for more than 20 shots after the cards get out of order.
Some other motions are in use, but these are simpler.
Before describing twilling machines or any special make of jacquards, it may perhaps be better to explain the mounting of ordinary machines, according to the usual methods adopted in some of the leading districts.
CHAPTER III
FULL-HARNESS MOUNTINGS
The mountings that will be alluded to in this section are all intended for ‘full harness’; that is, the ordinary method of jacquard weaving when applied to such fabrics as damask, dress goods, and, in many cases, to double cloths, handkerchiefs, &c.
Full harness, or, as it is termed in some hand-loom districts, shot and draft, to distinguish it from the ‘pressure harness’ system, holds the first place amongst mountings, as by it can be done what cannot be done by any other method, and everything can be done by it that can be done by any harness, or combination of harness or heddles; though it does not follow that it would be desirable to adopt it in every case. In a full harness each thread in any part of the tie can be lifted independently of the others; in wide fabrics, or in order to reduce expense in narrow ones, recourse is had to gathering or repeating the tie, and like threads in each repeat must be lifted together; but in a single tie any one thread can be lifted independently of any other. In full harness there is one thread of warp drawn into each mail or eye of the harness, and one shot is given to each change of card. Other descriptions of harnesses are known as ‘half harness,’ ‘split harness,’ ‘pressure harness,’ ‘gauze harness,’ double-cloth and quilt harnesses, &c.
Half harness is the term applied to that description of harness in which the half of the warp (every alternate thread) is drawn into the harness, and the other half passes through it loosely. This is mostly to be found in the manufacture of gauze or leno curtains, and is wrought with a shaft mounting in front of the harness.