Jacquard Weaving and Designing

by T. F. Bell

Sometimes the neck twines are all prepared in heads, and the following is a convenient method of doing so:—Fasten four flat pins of wood, as A, B, C, D, [Fig. 49], on a board as F, or on the edge of a bench or table. C and D are firmly fastened, but A and B can be turned round to the position shown by the dotted lines when the screws holding them are slackened. The distance from C to D must be the length required for the neck twines. E is the twine coming from a spool on a wire. The pin A is pushed round to the position shown by the dotted line, and the twine is warped round C, B, D, passing over B and under C, so as to form a lease. When a sufficient quantity is warped, the crossing of the lease is pushed up towards C, and the pin A turned round into the centre of the twines, taking the place of B, which is turned back. The use of the two pins is to allow room for warping, C and A being too close together. The distance from the outside of C to that of A should be the length the head is required to be (about 3-1/2 in. or 4 in.). The twines may now be cut at D, and a piece of cord looped round them and tied to D, so as to hold them steady, but allow them to be drawn out as required. The number of twines for each head can now be drawn out and tied round the two pins C and A, and when a number are done they can be slipped off the pins and put on cords or rods; the lease keeps the heads in order, and the bunch can be hung up at the loom, and each head be taken in rotation by the mounter. The number of twines for each head is regulated by the tie of the harness.

Fig. 49

Suppose a double-acting machine is to be mounted with the harness similar to that shown in No. 1, [Fig. 46]. The tail cords are usually put on the machine by the makers, but if they are worn out, or if new cords are required, putting them on is the first process. This can be done when the machine is on the ground, and the neck may also be tied to the tail cords before the machine is put on the loom. Some mounters prefer one method, and some the other, and the one which most conveniently suits the circumstances may be used. When the neck is attached to the machine before putting it on the loom, it is usual to turn it on its side on blocks or on a table. If the machine is on the loom, a board is tied up to make a seat for the mounter, and the bunch of neck twines is fixed convenient to his reach; or he may have a boy to draw them out for him, and hand him the number he requires. Beginning at the first hook, he takes a pair of tail cords, and having drawn them down straight and stretched them firmly, he loops the neck twines on them in the way shown in [Fig. 46], and draws the knot fast. The distance from the bottom of the hooks to the neck twines should be 11 in. or 12 in. The first of these in each row is measured, and the mounter can then regulate the others so as to have all the knots in a line.

The number of neck twines that are to be tied to each hook is regulated by the tie of the harness. For each time that any repeat or portion of a pattern is to be repeated on the cloth there must be a twine attached to those hooks of the machine that are to work this repeat. For instance, if a 400 machine is used, and the pattern consists of a simple repeat on these 400 hooks, and this has to be repeated six times on the cloth, then six neck twines must be tied to each hook of the machine. Again: The pattern might be made for a 400 machine, 200 hooks to be repeated six times, 100 four times, and 100 three times; then six twines would be tied to the first 200 hooks, four to the second set of hooks (100), and three to the third set (100), and any mounting would be regulated in a similar manner.

Full particulars of ties will be given further on.

If all the hooks in the machine are not required, any number of rows or portions of rows can be left idle at one end, or at both ends if desired, or even at the back or front.

When all the neck twines are tied up, the next process is to draw them through the heck, which should be fastened firmly 2 in. or 3 in. below the knots connecting the tail cords and neck.

The jacquard is supposed to have been levelled and set in its proper position on the loom, and firmly fastened there, and the same may now be done with the cumber board.