Fig. 69
Fig. 70
[Fig. 69] is a small sketch for a border with spot filling, which is shown on design or point paper in [Fig. 70]. The paper is 8 × 8; the first four checks are used for a selvage, and the pattern is on 12-1/2 designs or 100 threads of warp, and 22 designs or 176 cards would be required for the weft, the pattern being made about three times the size on the design paper that it is on the sketch. The design paper has 16 checks per inch, consequently the cloth would have about 48 threads to the inch to make the pattern appear as the sketch. If the cloth were finer, say with 72 threads per inch, then 150 checks on the design paper would be required for the pattern, which means that 150 hooks of the jacquard would be required for working it. Whatever width the sketch occupies (one repeat of the pattern), multiply this by the number of threads of warp per inch to be in the cloth required, and the product will be the number of hooks required for the jacquard, and the number of checks or spaces required on the design for the warp. The number of cards is found similarly from the weft of the cloth. If, on the other hand, a pattern is to be made for a jacquard, and it is required to find what size of pattern will work on it, divide the number of hooks in the jacquard by the number of threads per inch in the cloth required, and the quotient will be the size of the pattern warp-ways, in inches. The length or weft-way of the pattern can then be arranged to suit the number of cards, or the pattern can be made any length to suit the style of design. [Fig. 71] is a pattern of the same style as [Fig. 69], and it might be wanted to use it instead of Fig. 69 for cloth of the same make, say 40 to 45 threads per inch. This could not be done, as it could not be put on the design paper, but it would suit very well if intended for cloth with 80 to 100 threads per inch, which would admit of its being sufficiently enlarged (say four times the size of the sketch) to be correctly represented by the checks. [Fig. 69] would be better on cloth having 50 to 60 threads per inch, coarser sets requiring larger forms.
Fig. 71
In preparing a design for point paper, the sketch is usually first made out and selected by competent judges as suitable for the fabric required, as well as for the taste of the market in which the goods are to be sold. When selected it has to be enlarged to suit the size it is to cover on the point paper. Sometimes the enlargement is made on another piece of paper, and is then transferred to the point paper; this is perhaps one of the best methods of proceeding, but it is not so quick as if the enlargement were made upon the point paper direct. It is usual to rule squares on both the sketch and design paper, which bear to each other the same proportion that the size of the sketch does to the size of the design paper required to be covered. This guides the draughtsman, as everything in the small squares on the sketch should be put into the corresponding large squares on the enlarging paper or point paper.