[Fig. 75] is a sort of floral ornamental, or flatly and symmetrically treated floral pattern, somewhat after the Persian style, and though some would consider it stiff in comparison with the previous one, it has a very pleasing effect, and could be used the size indicated for dress goods, &c., or if enlarged to two or three times the size it would make a very good curtain pattern. Small sprigs of flowers, grasses, grain, &c., scattered about over the surface of the cloth make generally a favourite style of pattern.
So far the patterns given are such as would require the designer to have a good knowledge of drawing and of ornamental and floral forms, and many consider that a designer must be a draughtsman; but such is not the case.
Fig. 75
Large quantities of patterns are made that do not necessarily require the designer to have any knowledge of drawing; this is called ‘small pattern’ or ‘texture’ designing.
A designer of this class should have a thorough knowledge of weaving and of the effect which the patterns on design paper will produce on the cloth. He must, of course, have a taste for the arrangement of forms, and can produce considerable variety by a judicious arrangement of fancy threads through the cloth, particularly in worsted or woollen goods. The following examples will show how great a variety of patterns can be produced without any knowledge of drawing. But a knowledge of drawing will be a great assistance, as it trains the eye to correctness of form. [Fig. 76] is a pattern for dress goods; it may be made of cotton only, or with a cotton warp and worsted weft, and a good effect is produced by having the warp a different colour from the weft, say a gold cotton warp and a brown or giraffe worsted weft. Warp 60 to 80 threads per inch, and weft about the same. This is a pattern of the bird-eye class, and a very large range can be made in this style, both bold and effective, or fine and neat, as may be desired. The smaller patterns may, of course, be woven with shafts, but larger ones require a jacquard.
[Fig. 77] is another pattern, of the flushed stripe class, also suited for dress goods; this is a silk handkerchief pattern for 90 threads and 96 picks per inch; 60/2 China silk for warp, and 60’s single China silk for weft. If the small dots on the pattern are cut on the cards, a finer and closer pattern will be produced than if the black squares only are cut, but of course it would be less effective unless on a coarser fabric.
