Fig. 79
Another class of pattern by which a very good effect can be obtained by very simple means, is the hair line or tricot style. [Fig. 81] is a dice pattern on this principle. The texture is plain cloth throughout, and the effect of pattern is obtained by using two colours of warp and weft, say black and white, and by arranging the draught and treading so that the black weft will pass over the black warp and the white weft over the white warp on one dice, and the reverse of this for the next one, a horizontal and vertical lined effect will be produced, giving a subdued pattern. The dark checks on the design paper are the tricot or horizontal line effect; the grey checks the vertical lines or hair line effect. It will be seen at the edge of each dice how the colours are changed in both warp and weft by the two dots coming together. The crosses along the bottom and to the left side of the design show the dark threads and dark picks coming alternately with the white ones.
[Fig. 82] is a small figure pattern arranged in this manner, the reversing of the colours being done by the jacquard, as may be seen from the dots on the design. Almost any figure may be treated in this manner, but simple patterns, not too irregular or broken in outline, will perhaps be found most successful.
Fig. 80
These fabrics may be made in either woollen, worsted, or cotton for dress goods. About 36 threads of warp per inch of 2/30’s worsted, and 32 threads of weft per inch, is a good setting for them; and in any mild contrasts of yarns, such as two shades of grey, they are very pleasing.
Fig. 81