Fig. 140
Fig. 140a
To design a pattern for gauze: if it is to be a simple geometrical pattern it may be put direct on the design paper; but if to be a figured pattern, a sketch should be prepared for it in the same manner as for ordinary figured patterns, whether for dress goods, curtains, or any other material. Any desired figuring can be made, providing sufficient space be left between the figures to admit of the open work being made. The figuring should be treated as the ornamentation of a plain or short twill ground figure, which is woven on a gauze ground; the figure may be entirely plain or twill upon a gauze ground, in which case it must be sufficiently plain and solid to be effective, or it may be treated as damask figuring on ornamental patches of plain or twill on a gauze ground; or, again, the gauze may form the figure and the ground be plain or twill. Any variety may be made that ingenuity can suggest, and figuring with extra warp or weft may also be adopted if desired. When about to put the pattern on design paper, it may be observed that out of the 8 rows of needles in the machine only 6 are used for figuring, the other 2 being employed for gauzing; therefore, some means must be devised for getting the pattern on the paper so as to suit this. The simplest plan is that adopted in America—viz. instead of using two rows of hooks along the jacquard for the doup standards, to leave as many hooks at the first of the machine as will correspond with the number of doup standards required for one repeat of the pattern. Suppose for the same ties as those given—100 hooks for the doups and 300 for the figure—then the cords from the first or last 100 hooks would be taken down through the two front rows of the cumber board, and those from the 300 hooks would make up the body of the harness. When mounting in this way, the jacquard would be better turned with the cards hanging over the side of the loom, as for the ‘London tie.’ This method of mounting enables the pattern to be designed for 300 hooks and painted on the design paper independently of the gauze, which can be filled in afterwards.
Fig. 141