(*Footnote. See above.)
EXCURSION SOUTHWARD TO PORTLAND BAY.
I had now proceeded far enough to the eastward to be able to examine the coast about Portland Bay and extend my survey to the capes in its neighbourhood, the better to ascertain their longitude. I therefore determined to make an excursion in that direction and thus afford time not only for the extrication of the heavy carts still remaining in the mud but also for the repose of the cattle after their labours.
August 28.
By the survey proposed I hoped to extend my map of the country sufficiently in that direction to be at liberty, on my return to the party, to pursue a route directly homeward; not doubting that at a short distance to the northward of our camp we should again enter the beautiful open country which, when seen from the mouth of the Wannon, seemed to extend as far as could be seen to the eastward. In our ride to the south we reached, at four miles from the boggy ground, a fine green hill consisting of trap-rock and connected with a ridge of the same description which extended about two miles further to the southward.
MOUNT ECKERSLEY.
There we found it to terminate abruptly in a lofty brow, quite clear of timber and commanding an extensive view to the east and south over a much lower country. This hill had a very remarkable feature--a deep chasm separating it from the ridge behind, the sides being so steep as to present a section of the trap-rock which consisted principally of compact felspar. The hill which I named Mount Eckersley was covered, as well as the ridge to which it belonged, with a luxuriant crop of anthisterium, or kangaroo grass. Unfortunately the weather was squally but, by awaiting the intervals between clouds on the horizon, I obtained angles at length on nearly all the distant hills, the waters of Portland Bay just appearing in the south over an intervening woody ridge. From this hill I recognised a very conspicuous flat-topped hill to the northward which had been previously included in a series of angles observed on the 12th instant from the valley of the Wannon and which I now named Mount Napier. Portland Bay was distant about fifteen miles but the intervening country seemed so low, and swamps entirely clear of timber appeared in so many places, that I could scarcely hope to get through it: knowing it to contain all the water from those boggy valleys where our progress had been already so much impeded. Smoke arose from various parts of the lower country--a proof that at least some dry land was there. We were provided with horses only, and therefore desperately determined to flounder through or even to swim if necessary, we thrust them down the hill. On its side we met an emu which stood and stared, apparently fearless as if the strange quadrupeds had withdrawn its keen eye from the more familiar enemies who bestrode them. In the lower country we saw also a kangaroo, an animal that seldom frequents marshy lands. I was agreeably surprised to find also, on descending, that the rich grass extended among the trees across the lower country; and I was still more pleased on coming to a fine running stream at about three miles from the hill and after crossing a tract of land of the richest description. Reeds grew thickly amongst the long grass, and the ground appeared to be of a different character from any that I had previously seen. This seemed to be just such land as would produce wheat during the driest seasons and never become sour even in the wettest, such as this season undoubtedly was.
CROSS THE FITZROY.
The timber was thin and light and, with a fine deep stream flowing through it, the tract which at first sight from Mount Eckersley I had considered so sterile and wet proved to be one likely at no distant day to smile under luxuriant crops of grain. We found the river (which I named the Fitzroy) fordable, although deep at the place where we first came upon it. Shady trees of the mimosa kind grew along the banks and the earth was now good and firm on both sides. We heard the natives as we approached this stream and cooeyed to them; but our calls had only the effect, as appeared from the retiring sound of their voices, of making them run faster away. Continuing our ride southward we entered at two miles beyond the Fitzroy a forest of the stringybark eucalyptus; and although the anthisterium still grew in hollows I saw swampy open flats before us which I endeavoured to avoid, sometimes by passing between them and finally by turning to a woody range on the left. I ascended this range as night came on, in hopes of finding grass for our horses; but there the mimosa and xanthorrhoea alone prevailed--the latter being a sure indication of sterility and scanty vegetation. We found naked ground higher up consisting of deep lagoons and swamps amongst which I was satisfied with my success in passing through in such a direction as enabled me to regain, in a dark and stormy night, the shelter of the woods on the side of the range. But I sought in vain for the grass, so abundant elsewhere on this day's ride, and we were at length under the necessity of halting for the night where but little food could be found for our horses, and under lofty trees that creaked and groaned to the blast.
August 29.