cartridges out, as it is exceedingly unlikely that the tyro will be able to shoot all the beasts allowed him by his game licence.[1] Smooth-bore cartridges of fair quality can be bought in Srinagar, and I certainly do not consider it worth the trouble and expense to convey them out from England.
[1] See Appendix 1.
To the amateur artist I would say: Be well supplied with brushes and paper—the latter sealed in tin for passage through the Red Sea and India. Colours, and indeed all materials can he got from Treacher & Co., Bombay, and also from the branch of the Army and Navy Stores there.
Paper is, however, difficult to get in good condition, being frequently spoilt by mildew.
It is almost impossible to get anything satisfactory in the way of painting materials in Kashmir itself; therefore I say: Be well supplied before leaving home.
Finally, a small stock of medicines should certainly be taken, not omitting a copious supply of quinine (best in powder form for this purpose), and also of strong peppermint or something of the sort, to give to the native servants and others who are always falling sick of a fever or complaining of an internal pain, which is generally quite cured by a dose of peppermint.
Neither Jane nor I love guide-books; we found however, in Kashmir, the little book written by Dr. Neve an invaluable companion;[2] while Murray’s Guide to India afforded much useful information when wandering in that country.
[2] The Tourist’s Guide to Kashmir, Ladakh, Skardo, &c., edited by Arthur Neve, F.R.G.S.
The best book on Kashmir that I know is Sir Walter Lawrence’s Valley of Kashmir.
Any one going out as we did, absolutely ignorant of the language, should certainly take an elementary phrase-book or something of the sort to study on the voyage. We forgot to do this, and had infinite trouble afterwards in getting what we wanted, and lost much time in acquiring the rudimentary knowledge of Hindustani which enabled us to worry along with our native servants, &c. No mere “globe-trotter” need attempt to learn any Kashmiri, as Hindustani is “understanded of the people” as a rule, and the tradesmen in Srinagar know quite as much English as is good for them.