THE
LAND OF THE BEY.
BEING IMPRESSIONS OF
TUNIS UNDER THE FRENCH.
BY
T. WEMYSS REID,
AUTHOR OF “CHARLOTTE BRONTË: A MONOGRAPH,” ETC.
London:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1882.
[All rights reserved.]
LONDON:
PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED,
ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.
CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. | |
| HOW I ATE BOUILLABAISSE ATMARSEILLES. | |
| PAGE | |
| A mad holiday scheme — Prophecies of evil— Paris after rain — In the “Rapide” — Marseilles — A dish ofBouillabaisse, and a disillusionment | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| ON BOARD THE “CHARLES QUINT.” | |
| A noble ship — Fellow-passengers — Thevivandière — Husbands and wives — A defect in the ship’sarrangements — “Why is an Englishman never sea-sick?” — Bone —Hair-cutting made easy — Colonel Allegro — The vivandièredistinguishes herself — A sudden change | [18] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| A WHITE SQUALL. | |
| A crowded deck — Rough seas — La Calleand its boatmen — A sea-fight on a small scale — Dinner underdifficulties — Trying to sleep — The small miseries of life — TheGulf of Tunis — A beautiful prospect — Goletta — My friend Afrigan— Jewish women — French soldiers | [38] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| A FIRST GLIMPSE OF TUNIS. | |
| An African railway-station —Fellow-countrymen — Mr. Parnell’s arrest — The “Little Sea” —African scenery — Sketches by the road-side — Camels, Moors,Bedouins — Tunis — The Grand Hotel — The Bab el Bahr — Tunisiancostumes — The “Grande Rue de Tunis” — The bazaars — Theslave-market | [57] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| THE ENGLISH CONSULATE. | |
| Mr. Reade — His appointment asConsul-General — Changed circumstances — The Consul at home — Wallsof blue china — The Consul’s duties — An offensive globe-trotter —A drive round the city walls — The Spanish aqueduct — The forts ofTunis — An awkward dilemma — My vivandière in trouble — An Englishhome in Tunis — A sudden alarm | [78] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| A DAY AT CARTHAGE. | |
| The pious Æneas — A street scene — Anondescript vehicle — The road to Carthage — A wayside tragedy —Bedouin children — Delenda est Carthago — An Empire’s dust— Dido’s Palace — The cisterns of Carthage — A lovely situation —The College of St. Louis — English ladies in Tunis | [95] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| WALKS ABOUT TUNIS. | |
| The English burial-ground — A sad spot —The author of “Home, sweet Home” — An Arab fortune-teller — On thetop of a volcano — The “fanatical quarters” — More eastern than the East — Shoppingin the bazaars — Mohamed the shopkeeper — Driving a bargain — Timeversus money | [116] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| OUTSIDE TUNIS. | |
| Risks outside the walls — A tantalizingprospect — The gates of Tunis — The Belvedere hill — The Frenchcamp — Typhus — A fine prospect — A visit to the Marsa — Mr.Reade’s country-house — A country drive — Taib Bey — The fall ofKairwan — The Bardo — The suzerainty of the Caliph — A quaintcustom | [137] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| ON THE ROAD TO KAIRWAN. | |
| The story of a failure — Friendlywarnings — Uxorious Afrigan — A change of diet — I start for Susa —An African thunderstorm — Susa — Troublous times — A busy scene — Aminiature railway — The English Vice-Consul — Preparations forcamping-out — A new servant — Disappointed — A “Parisian Hotel” inthe Gulf of Hammamet — A risky expedition — A faithfulfollower | [159] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| A GALE OFF CAPE BON. | |
| A night of misery — No chance of seeingKairwan — The Great Mosque of Susa — The Vice-Consul’s house — AnEnglish captive in Susa — Arab revolvers — Old friends — On boardthe Ville de Naples — A disturbed meal — Running forshelter — Rounding Cape Bon — Glasgow for ever! | [178] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| LAST DAYS AT TUNIS. | |
| A retrospect — The captain of theAristides — A curious meeting — Tunis again — Farewell visits —Rich shopkeepers — A last tussle with Mohamed — A real Arabgentleman — The Jeweller’s Bazaar — A visit to the Jewish quarter —An Arabian Night’s Entertainment — Dining, drinking, dancing | [197] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| GOOD-BYE TO GOLETTA. | |
| An Arab holiday — A state reception — Alast look at the Bab el Bahr — The heir apparent — An Englishsailor’s courage — Italian greed — The Sicilia — Sea-sickArabs | [221] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| HOMEWARD BOUND. | |
| Malta — The Union Club — A delightfulchange — The harbour by moonlight — A thrilling scene — theElettrico — Etna — Messina — Between Scylla and Charybdis— Sunrise off Naples — Home again | [240] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| POLITICS IN TUNIS. | |
| A survey of the situation — M. Roustan’spolicy — The first campaign — The Treaty of the Bardo — Theinsurrection — Bombardment of Sfax — Occupation of Tunis — Marchupon Kairwan — Capture of Kairwan — Results of the French policy —English interests — Estrangement of Italy | [265] |