PAGE
[General Preface to the Series]xi
[Preface]xiv
[List of Plates]xxiii
[Introduction]33
[CHAPTER I]
[Prehistoric Dress—Female]40
[Prehistoric Dress—Male]41
[CHAPTER II]
[The Development of Costume to the Tenth Century—Female]45
[The Development of Costume to the Tenth Century—Male]49
[CHAPTER III]
[Tenth to the Fifteenth Century—Female]57
[Tenth to the Fifteenth Century—Male]71
[CHAPTER IV]
[Fifteenth Century—Female]84
[Fifteenth Century—Male]92
[CHAPTER V]
[Sixteenth Century. Character of Trimmings]109
[Sixteenth Century. Henry VIII—Female]113
[Sixteenth Century. Henry VIII—Male]118
[Sixteenth Century. The Reigns of Edward VI and Mary—Female]124
[Sixteenth Century. The Reigns of Edward VI and Mary—Male]129
[Sixteenth Century. Elizabeth—Female]133
[Sixteenth Century. Elizabeth—Male]139
[CHAPTER VI]
[The Character of Trimmings through the Seventeenth Century]142
[James I]142
[Charles I]143
[The Commonwealth]145
[Charles II]145
[James II and William and Mary]146
[Seventeenth Century. James I—Female]147
[Seventeenth Century. James I—Male]150
[Seventeenth Century. Charles I—Female]154
[Seventeenth Century. Charles I—Male]160
[Seventeenth Century. The Commonwealth—Male and Female]168
[Seventeenth Century. Charles II—Female]169
[Seventeenth Century. Charles II—Male]174
[Seventeenth Century. James II—Female]178
[Seventeenth Century. James II—Male]180
[Seventeenth Century. William and Mary—Female]184
[Seventeenth Century. William and Mary—Male]186
[CHAPTER VII]
[The Character of Decoration and Trimmings of the Eighteenth Century]190
[Eighteenth Century. Anne—Female]193
[Eighteenth Century. Anne—Male]198
[Eighteenth Century. George I—Female]201
[Eighteenth Century. George I—Male]207
[Eighteenth Century. George II—Female]211
[Eighteenth Century. George II—Male]214
[Eighteenth Century. George III to 1800—Female]217
[Eighteenth Century. George III to 1800—Male]231
[CHAPTER VIII]
[Character of Trimmings of the Nineteenth Century]237
[Nineteenth Century. George III—Female]241
[Nineteenth Century. George III—Male]246
[Nineteenth Century. George IV—Female]248
[Nineteenth Century. George IV, 1820-30—Male]254
[Nineteenth Century. William IV—Female]258
[Nineteenth Century. William IV—Male]263
[Nineteenth Century. Victoria—Female]264
[Nineteenth Century. Victoria—Male]273
[Patterns of Various Reigns from Antique Costume]276
[Patterns to Scale]283
[Patterns to Scale, Detailed List]353
[Index]359

LIST OF DESCRIPTIVE LINES TO THE PLATES

DRESS DESIGN

Plates originally printed in collotype are now produced in half-tone

INTRODUCTION

The subject of Historical Costume covers such a multitude of detail that a volume on each century could be written, with hundreds of illustrations. Thus it is, most works on costume are expensive and bewildering; but I hope this small practical handbook will be a useful addition to the many beautifully illustrated works which already exist.

I have divided the matter into centuries and reigns, as far as possible, in this small work, besides separating male and female attire, thus simplifying reference. A special feature has also been made, of supplying the maker or designer of dress with actual proportions and patterns, gleaned from antique dresses, as far back as they could be obtained; and I am much indebted to the authorities at the Victoria and Albert Museum for the permission given me to examine and measure their unique specimens; also to Mr. Wade, Mr. G. G. Kilburne, Mr. Duffield, Mr. Box Kingham, Mr. Hill, Mr. Breakespeare, and others, for their valuable assistance with interesting specimens. I have used outline drawings in the text, as being more clear for purposes of explanation. The dates given to the illustrations are to be taken as approximate to the time in which the style was worn. Many of the photographs have been arranged from my own costume collection, which has made so much of my research simple, reliable, and pleasant. I am also happy to state that before the final revision of this book I have heard that my collection of historical costumes and accessories will, after a preliminary exhibition at Messrs. Harrod's, be presented to the Victoria and Albert Museum as a gift to the nation by the Directors of that firm. Thus the actual dresses shown in these plates will find a permanent home in London, and become valuable examples to students of costume. The coiffures in the collotype plates are not to be judged as examples, for it would have consumed far too much time to set up these figures more perfectly, but all the bonnets, caps, and accessories given are genuine examples.

In a book of this size, one cannot go into the designs of materials, &c., which is a study any earnest student would not neglect, but in this connection I would draw attention to the comparative colour density and proportion of designs chosen for various effects.

It has been my endeavour to arrange a greater variety of the forms which make up the characters of each period, and also to give a wider knowledge into the footwear, or details of the footwear, than is usual in most costume books.