Fig. 114.—1828-1836.
The bodice began with a very pointed front and very low neck off the shoulders, tuck-ins of fine embroidery, and capes or fichus of the same, covered the shoulders, often three deep. The pointed bodice only lasted for a few years, when the waistband again became the favourite. The sleeves were very large at the shoulders, diminishing at the wrist, but soon took a big round form, sometimes tightly pleated into quarters before 1835. We then get the huge sleeve gathered at the wrist, and often falling below it; this again tightened on the forearm, and we note a tendency to tighter sleeves coming in before 1837, neatly gathered well down the shoulder. The evening-dress sleeve was a large puff, set out by stiffening to a flat wide effect. Very wide epaulet collars were seen on most dresses, meeting in a V shape at the waist, with a filling of lace in the front, and many bodices were elaborately gathered, and some of the sleeves were also gathered into puffs all down the arm.
Fig. 115.—1830-1840.
The skirts were set out very full over stiff flounced petticoats, and were worn rather short; as a rule they were trimmed with one or two flounces, which were handsomely decorated, and a short polonaise is occasionally seen. There were many interesting trimmings of gauze, flowers, and bows; while silk-flowered gauze over dresses made some charming effects.
Heavy mantles and capes or pelisses began to be braided, and rather strong colours were in general taste.
The hand-bags were of a curved form and generally bore heavy tassels. Very small fans and round fans were attractive, and bouquet-holders of gilt, with pearl handles, became the thing to carry.