Such then for some three hundred years was the great Fair of the Festival of St. Egidius. For many years it survived, even though trade in Winchester was falling off and doomed, but it could not survive indefinitely. In Henry VI.’s time a distinct falling off was apparent; since then it has dwindled gradually bit by bit, till now the only tangible memorial remaining is the name of the Bishop’s court, the Pavilionis Aula, the ghostly footfall of which seems still to be re-echoed in the name “Palm Hall,” a well-known residence standing on the brow of the hill where ‘all the fun of the Fair’ sparkled and bubbled so many hundreds of years before.
Side by side with the Fair was the Pilgrim stream, which too reached its height about this period. We have seen how early in Edward the Elder’s reign the shrine of St. Josse in Newan Mynstre attracted pilgrims to Winchester and gave it a reputation—a reputation which the enshrinement in Edgar’s reign of Swithun’s bones enormously added to. Tales of miracle were circulated, widespread and equally widely credited, cripples were healed, the lame walked, and St. Swithun’s became the most popular pilgrimage centre in all Southern England. From Henry II.’s reign, though the shrine of Becket rose into importance, St. Swithun’s did not abate in popularity, and the stream of pious, dust-laden feet still flowed just the same to and from it, save that many going on pilgrimage would visit the shrines of both St. Thomas and St. Swithun on their way. Rich and poor, a-foot or in the saddle, they streamed into Winchester as soon as the pilgrim season—the early spring, that is,—arrived. As Chaucer tells us:
Whan that Aprille with his showrès swoote
The drought of Marche hath percèd to the roote,
. . . . . .
Thanne longen folk to gon on pilgrimages.
The wealthier lodged in hostelries and inns, the poorer found shelter and hospitality within the walls of convent or nunnery. From south and west they came—over the Roman road from Sarum and along the Itchen valley from Southampton, turning aside to visit St. Cross and receive the wayfarer’s dole of bread and beer, till they reached the gates of St. Swithun’s or of Hyde. St. Swithun’s was the chief place of resort.
Here within the Pilgrim’s or Guesten Hall, the greater part of which still stands, a rough but welcome bed awaited them, while at the buttery a plentiful meal of broken victuals and beer was to be had for the asking. Then next morning after mass they would be admitted to the shrine, to say their prayers, make their humble offering, and depart.
An unwholesome and unsavoury enough crowd, doubtless, in the main—travel-stained, footsore, and unwashed, disease accompanied them, frequently enough, from centre to centre, just as plague follows nowadays the eastern lines of pilgrimage in India and Arabia—and not even all their piety and devotion could sufficiently endear them to the monks of St. Swithun as to make them personally acceptable, and secure unrestricted welcome for them within their church and monastery.
Accordingly, though allowed to enter the Cathedral freely, their liberty within it was circumscribed. Admitted to the north transept by a special door—the Pilgrim’s door, now walled up—they could make their way into Godfrey de Lucy’s retro-choir, the great extension east of the high altar, where the shrine of the saint was placed. So much and no more of the Cathedral was open to them, for at the head of the presbytery steps, leading down to the south transept and nave, massive iron-work gates barred the way; the gates are to be seen still, though long since removed to near the western entrance of the Cathedral. And so their devotions ended, they would journey on—on
MIDDLE GATE, WINCHESTER COLLEGE
Middle Gate gives access to Middle or Chamber Court—so called from ‘Election Chamber,’ the large room over the gateway where ‘elections’ to college were formerly held. The three statues over the gateway represent the Virgin, the Archangel Gabriel, and the Founder. The quaint old custom of college boys crossing the Quad bareheaded, in honour of the Virgin, is followed at Winchester College still.