There is still another distinction, which ought not to be omitted,—the fact, that many of the odoriferous plants never[1980] enter into the composition of garlands, the iris[1981] and the saliunca, for example, although, both of them, of a most exquisite odour. In the iris, it is the root[1982] only that is held in esteem, it being extensively employed in perfumery and medicine. The iris of the finest quality is that found in Illyricum,[1983] and in that country, even, not in the maritime parts of it, but in the forests on the banks of the river Drilon[1984] and near Narona. The next best is that of Macedonia,[1985] the plant being extremely elongated, white, and thin. The iris of Africa[1986] occupies the third rank, being the largest of them all, and of an extremely bitter taste.
The iris of Illyricum comprehends two varieties—one of which is the raphanitis, so called from its resemblance to the radish,[1987] of a somewhat red colour, and superior[1988] in quality to the other, which is known as the “rhizotomus.” The best kind of iris is that which produces sneezing[1989] when handled. The stem of this plant is a cubit in length, and erect, the flower being of various colours, like the rainbow, to which circumstance it is indebted for its name. The iris, too, of Pisidia[1990] is far from being held in disesteem. Persons[1991] who intend taking up the iris, drench the ground about it some three months before with hydromel, as though a sort of atonement offered to appease the earth; with the point of a sword, too, they trace three circles round it, and the moment they gather it, they lift it up towards the heavens.
The iris is a plant of a caustic nature, and when handled, it causes blisters like burns to rise. It is a point particularly recommended, that those who gather it should be in a state of chastity. The root, not only when dried,[1992] but while still in the ground, is very quickly attacked by worms. In former times, it was Leucas and Elis that supplied us with the best oil[1993] of iris, for there it has long been cultivated; at the present day, however, the best comes from Pamphylia, though that of Cilicia and the northern climates is held in high esteem.
CHAP. 20.—THE SALIUNCA.
The saliunca[1994] has a rather short leaf, which does not admit of its being plaited for garlands, and numerous roots, by which it is held together; being more of a herb than a flower, and so closely matted and tangled that it would almost appear to have been pressed together with the hand—in short, it is a turf[1995] of a peculiar nature. This plant grows in Pannonia and the sunny regions of Noricum and the Alps, as also the vicinity of the city of Eporedia;[1996] the smell being so remarkably sweet that the crops of it have been of late quite as profitable as the working of a mine. This plant is particularly valued for the pleasant smell it imparts to clothes among which it is kept.
CHAP. 21.—THE POLIUM, OR TEUTHRION.
It is the same, too, with the polium,[1997] a herb employed for a similar purpose among the Greeks, and highly extolled by Musæus and Hesiod, who assert that it is useful for every purpose, and more particularly for the acquisition of fame and honour;[1998] indeed, it is a truly marvellous production, if it is the fact, as they state, that its leaves are white in the morning, a purple at midday, and azure[1999] at sunset. There are two varieties of it, the field polium, which is larger, and the wild,[2000] which is more diminutive. Some persons give it the name of “teuthrion.”[2001] The leaves resemble the white hairs of a human being; they take their rise immediately from the root, and never exceed a palm in height.
CHAP. 22. (8.)—FABRICS WHICH RIVAL THE COLOURS OF FLOWERS.
We have now said enough on the subject of the odoriferous flowers; in relation to which, luxury not only glories in having vanquished Nature in the composition of unguents, but has even gone so far as to challenge, in her fabrics, those flowers which are more particularly recommended by the beauty of their tints. I remark that the following are the three principal[2002] colours; the red, that of the kermes[2003] for instance, which, beginning in the tints of the rose, reflects, when viewed[2004] sideways and held up to the light, the shades that are found in the Tyrian purple,[2005] and the colours of the dibapha[2006] and Laconian cloths: the amethystine colour, which is borrowed from the violet, and to which, bordering as it does on the purple, we have given the name of “ianthinum”[2007]—it must, however, be remembered, that we here give a general name to a colour which is subdivided into numerous tints[2008]—and a third, properly known as the “conchyliated” colour, but which comprehends a variety of shades, such, for instance, as the tints of the heliotropium, and others of a deeper colour, the hues of the mallow, inclining to a full purple, and the colours of the late[2009] violet; this last being the most vivid, in fact, of all the conchyliated tints. The rival colours being now set side by side, Nature and luxury may enter the lists, to vie for the mastery.
I find it stated that, in the most ancient times, yellow was held in the highest esteem, but was reserved exclusively for the nuptial veils[2010] of females; for which reason it is perhaps that we do not find it included among the principal colours, those being used in common by males and females: indeed, it is the circumstance of their being used by both sexes in common that gives them their rank as principal colours.