Wanderings in Spain

by Théophile Gautier

We had now been at Valencia some nine or ten days, waiting for another steamer, for the weather had disorganized the regular departure of the boats, and had greatly interfered with all correspondence. Our curiosity was satisfied; and all we now thought of was returning to Paris, to again behold our parents, our friends, the dear boulevards, and the dear gutters; I even think—may Heaven forgive me!—that I cherished the secret desire of seeing a vaudeville; in a word, civilized life, which had been forgotten for the last six months, called imperiously for our return. We longed to read the daily papers, to sleep in our own beds, and had, besides, a thousand other Bœotian fancies. At length, a packet arrived from Gibraltar, and took us to Porte Vendres, after allowing us to visit Barcelona, where it stopped for a few hours. The aspect of Barcelona resembles that of Marseilles, and there is hardly any trace of the Spanish type about it; the edifices are large and regular, and, were it not for the immense blue velvet trousers and the ample red caps of the Catalonians, you would fancy yourself in a town of France. In spite of its Rambla, planted with trees, and its handsome straight streets, Barcelona appears somewhat cramped and stiff, like all towns which are too tightly laced in a doublet of fortifications.

The cathedral is very handsome, especially the interior, which is sombre, mysterious, and almost inspires you with fear.

The organ is of Gothic structure, and shuts with two large panels covered with paintings; a Saracen's head is making a frightful grimace beneath the pendentive which supports the organ. Beautiful lustres of the fifteenth century, full of open-worked figures like reliquaries, hang from the nervures of the roof. On leaving the church, you enter a fine cloister of the same epoch; its silence incites to reverie, and its half-ruined arcades are characterized by the greyish tints of the old buildings of the north. The calle of La Plateria (the goldsmith's art) dazzles the eyes by its shop-fronts and glass-cases, which sparkle with jewellery, especially with enormous ear-rings as large as small bunches of grapes, of a heavy and massive richness; and, though rather barbarously made, productive of a very majestic effect: they are principally bought by peasant-women in easy circumstances.

The next day we entered, at ten o'clock in the morning, the little bay at the end of which Porte Vendres rises. We were in France. And—must I own it?—on setting foot on the soil of my country, I felt my eyes fill with tears, not of joy, however, but of regret. The Vermilion Towers, the silvery tops of the Sierra Neveda, the rose-bays of the Generalife, the long, soft, limpid looks, the pink-blossom lips, the little feet and the little hands of the daughters of Spain, all came back to my mind so vividly, that it appeared to me that France, where, however, I was about to see my mother again, was a land of exile for me. My dream was over.

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INDEX.

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Abencerrages, Hall of the, Alhambra, [189], [190]
Accident to the Correo Real, near Burgos, [47]
Aceite, Puerta del, at Seville, [264]
Adventure with robbers, [209]
Aguadores and Aguadoras of Madrid, [79]
Alameda, the, of Granada, [171], [172]
Alcala de los Panaderos, [257]
Alcantara, bridge of, at Toledo, [119]
Alcazar, the, at Toledo, [119];
at Seville, [270], [271]
Algives, Plaza de los, [179]
Alhama, [212], [213]
Alhambra, the, [177], [178];
the Zacatin and Plaza Nueva, [177];
the Gate of Justice, [178];
the Plaza de los Algives, [179];
the Patin de las Arrayanes of Alberca, or Mezouar, [180];
Hall of Ambassadors, [181-183];
the Tocador, [183];
Garden of Lindaraja, and Bath-room of the Sultana, [185], [186];
Hall of the Two Sisters, [186];
of Abencerrages, [186];
the Taza de los Leones, [187], [188]
Alicant, [296], [297]
Aloe-tree, [159]
Altar, high, in the cathedral of Toledo, [124]
Amistad, Fonda de la, at Madrid, [58]
Andalusia, entrance to, by the Puerta de los Perros, [157]
Anecdote of Spanish Robbers, [110-112];
of the Jews at Toledo, [134], [135];
of a Calesero, [200]
Angoulême, [4];
frescoes at, [4]
Aranjuez, royal residence of, [148]
Architecture, usual style of, at Madrid, [85-87]
Armeria, the, at Madrid, [93], [94];
in the Alhambra, [179]
Arms, manufactory of, at Toledo, [141], [142]
Aspect of Granada, [167]
Astigarraga, inn at, [17];
supper at, [18], [19]
Authors, Spanish dramatic, [235]
Baile Nacional, at Vittoria, [23], [24];
at Malaga, [230]
Banderillas, [68];
de fuego, [71]
Banderilleros, the, [61-64]
Baño de la Cava at Toledo, [137]
Barcelona, the cathedral at, [301]
Bath of Florinda at Toledo, [137], [138]
Bathing in the Tagus at Toledo, [121-136]
Bath-room of the Sultana, Alhambra, [184]
Bautista, J., builder of the Escurial, [104]
Baylen, [159];
the church, [160]
Bayonne, [120]
Bidassoa, bridge over the, [14]
Billiard-playing at Madrid, [86]
Berruguete, tomb of the Cardinal at Toledo, by, [140]
Blades of Toledo, [141], [142]
Blanca, Count de Florida, village founded by, [158]
Boabdil, king, [179]
Bordeaux, [6-10];
hotel touters at, [7];
the theatre, [8];
the grisettes, [8];
the cathedral, [8];
Tower of St. Michael, [8];
vault of Mummies, [9];
Hospice des Vieillards, [10];
the museum, [10];
the port, [10];
the theatre, [10]
Bradamant and Galiana, legend of, [135], [136]
Bridge of boats across the Guadalquiver at Seville, [263]
Briones, Francisco, of Madrid, the picador, [223]
Briviesca, village of, [26]
Bucaros, and mode of using them, [89]
Buen Retiro, palace at Madrid, [94]
Bull, the, in the arena at Madrid, [67-69]
Bull-fight, description of a, at Madrid, [57-73];
at Malaga, [221-229];
at Jeres, [284-288]
Burgos, [27-45];
public place at, [27];
romantic appearance of the beggars at, [27];
the convicts, [27];
the fonda, [28];
fountain, [29];
the cathedral, [30-41];
the Puerta de Santa Maria, [41], [42];
Cartuja de Miraflores, [42-45];
General Thibaud and the Cid's bones, [45]
Cacin, [212]
Cadiz, [277-282];
the Calle San Francisco, [277];
appearance of the town, [278];
Plaza de Toros, [279]; ramparts, [279];
the Voltigeur, [280], [281];
Cadiz from the sea, [282]
Calderon de la Barca and his plays, [232]
Calesero, the, [143]
Calle d'Alcala at Madrid, [60]
Calle de Carretas at Madrid, [60]
Calle de Parragas at Granada, [165]
Calle de los Caballeros at Ecija, [242]
Campeador ([see Cid])
Caramanchel, village of, [114]
Caratraca, [238]
Carbon, Puerta del, at Seville, [264]
Cardinal's Hospital at Toledo, [140], [141]
Caridad, Hospital de la, at Seville, [272]
Cartagena de Levante, [295], [296]
Carthusian Convent, Cartuja de Miraflores, [27];
visit to, [42], [44];
at Granada, [194], [195]
Carvings in wood and stone in Burgos Cathedral, [30], [31], [38];
the Passion of our Lord, stone carving by Philip of Burgundy, [35];
stalls of Burgos Cathedral, [35], [36]
Casa del Cordon at Burgos, [41]
Casa de Pupilos at Granada, [164]
Castil de Peones, village of, [26]
Cathedral of Bordeaux, [8];
of Burgos, [30-41];
of Toledo, [119-125];
of Jaen, [160], [161];
at Seville, [265-270];
of Barcelona, [301]
Cellini, Benvenuto, statue of the Escurial attributed to, [109]
Cervesa de Santa Barbara con limon, [82]
Chains at San Juan de los Reyes, at Toledo, [131]
Charlemagne and Galiana, legend of, [135], [136]
Charles III., statue of, at Burgos, [27]
Château Regnault, [2]
Châtellerault, [3]
Chulos at Madrid, [61-64]
"Christ on the Cross," at Burgos, [31]
Cid, the, his chest at Burgos, [32], [33];
his bones, [45]
Coffee-houses at Madrid, [81-83]
Cormana, [257]
Cordova, [246-255];
magnificent gateway, [246];
appearance of Cordova, [247];
Mosque at Cordova, [249-254];
the Foundling Hospital, [255];
the Guadalquiver, [255]
Cork-tree, the, [11]
Cormana, [257]
Cornelio, the Cicerone of the Escurial, [107]
Correo Real, el, the Spanish diligence, [49]
Costume of the ladies at Madrid, [75], [78], [90];
of the men, [79];
of the peasants of Andalusia, [162];
of the inhabitants of Granada, [167-169]
Court of Lions, Alhambra, [185-189]
Covarubias, builder of the Alcazar at Toledo, [119]
Crickets kept in cages at Madrid, [83]
Cristina, the, at Seville, [261]
Cubzac, Bridge of, [6]
Dances, national, aversion to among the higher classes, [92]
Dangers of the Spanish roads, [210], [211]
Darro, the, at Granada, [168]
Dax, [11]
Depopulation of Spain, [54]
Diez, Matilde, the actress, [232]
Dogs used at bull-fights, [71], [72]
Dome of the Escurial, [109]
Dos de Mayo, monument to the victims of the, at Madrid, [93]
Drama, Spanish, its utter decline, [232], [233]
Dramatic authors, Spanish, [255]
Dueñas, [50]
Duque, the Alameda del, at Seville, [260], [261]
Eagles on the Sierra Nevada, [204]
Ecija, [241], [242]
Encampment on the mountains, [205], [206]
Environs of Madrid, [147]; of Malaga, [218];
of Cadiz, [278]
Equipages at Madrid, [74]
Ernani, town of, [19]
Escopeteros, [14]
Escurial, visit to the, [103-112];
foundation of the building by Philip II., [104];
its gloomy appearance, [104];
formed like a gridiron in honour of St. Lawrence, [105];
curious colour of the walls, [105], [106];
the courtyard and church, [106], [107];
the blind cicerone Cornelio, [107];
the Pantheon, [107], [108];
the sacristy, [108];
the library, [108], [109];
marble figure of Christ, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini, [109];
the dome, [109]
Espada or Matador, the, [64], [69], [70]
Exchange, the, at Seville, [270]
Excitement of spectators at a bull-fight, [71-73]
Extortion at Spanish inns, [238], [239]
Fan, the, universally used in Spain, [75], [76]
Farmhouse hospitality, [241]
Fire sold at Madrid, [81]
Florinda's Bath at Toledo, [137], [138]
Fonda San Estaban at Bayonne, [12];
at Castile, [28];
de la Amistad at Madrid, [58];
del Caballero at Toledo, [116], [117]
Fountain with statue of our Saviour at Burgos, [29];
at Madrid, [80-97];
of Lions, Alhambra, [186-188]
Francisco, Calle San, [277]
Frescoes at Angoulême, [4]
Furniture of Spanish houses, [88]
Galera, the Spanish, [49]
Galiana's Palace at Toledo, [134], [135]
Garbanzo, the, [19]
Gaspacho, or cold garlic soup, [216], [217], [241]
Gateway at Cordova, [276]
Gatien, St., at Tours, [3]
Generalife, the, near the Alhambra, [189]
Gibraltar, [291-295]
Gitanos and Gitanas at Granada, [193], [194];
at Seville, [265]
Gomeles, Calle de los, at Granada, [169]
Goya, Francisco, his works and life, [95-102]
Granada, [164-207];
Fonda del Comercio, [164];
Louis the cicerone, [164], [165];
the Calle de Parragas, [165];
view of the Alhambra, [166];
the Darro, [166];
general aspect of Granada, [167];
the inhabitants, [167], [168];
picturesque costumes of the peasantry, [169];
the Spanish tailor, [170];
the Alameda, [171];
the Xenil, [171];
Tertulias, [173];
the Zacatin, [177];
the Alhambra, [177-192];
the Gitanos and Gitanas, [192], [193];
Monte Sagrado, the Carthusian convent, [194], [195];
Monastery of San Juan de Dios, [195], [196];
Convent of San Geronimo, [196];
Convent of San Domingo, [196], [197];
baths of Granada, [197], [198];
Society at Granada, [198-201];
ascent of the Mulhacen, [201-207]
Gregorian and Mozarabic rituals, [126], [127]
Guadarrama, [57]
Guadalquivir, the, [160], [257], [262], [274-276]
Guevara, dramatic author, [232]
Guilhen de Castro, dramatic author, [233]
Guzman, Antonio, the actor, [91]
Hall of Ambassadors, in the Alhambra, [181-183];
of the two Sisters, [185]
Harvest and harvest carts, [150]
Heat of the weather at Madrid, [89];
at Toledo, [117];
at Ocaña, [149]
Heaths near Valladolid, [53]
Hercules, the French, at Vittoria, [23]
—— grotto of, at Toledo, [138-140]
Hernani, ou l'Honneur Castillan, [53]
Herrera, builder of the Escurial, [105]
Homenaga, the tower of, in the Alhambra, [179]
Horses of Andalusia, [207]
Hospice des Vieillards, at Bordeaux, [10]
Hospital, Foundling, at Cordova, [256]
Host, unwillingness of the people to worship the, [146]
Houses, underground, near Vendôme, [2];
at Toledo, [118];
at Ecija, [243]
Iced drinks—bebidas heladas, [81], [82]
Illescas, town of, [115];
Moorish remains near, [115]
Impartiality of the Spanish public, [226]
Inns, Spanish, extortion at, [238]
Irun and its bridge, [13]
Isle of Pheasants, [13]
Jaen, city of, the cathedral, [161-163]
Jarras, for cooling water, [87], [88]
Jeres, bull-fights, ridiculous and tragical episodes, [284-288]
Jewish synagogue at Toledo, [133]
Juan, Don, de Marana, founder of an hospital at Seville, [272]
Juan Eugenio Hartzembusch, the author, [229]
Juliano, count, father of Florinda, [137]
Justice, the gate of, in the Alhambra, [178]
La Carlotta, road from Ecija to, [243];
the inn, treachery of our hosts, [244], [245]
La Guardia, town of, [151]
Ladies of Madrid, [75], [76]
Lady, our, of Toledo, [129]
Landes, the, [4];
desolate appearance of, [11]
Lanza the cosario, [208]
Legend of our Lady of Toledo, [121], [122];
of Galiana's palace, [135], [136];
of Florinda's bath at Toledo, [137], [138];
of Rodriguez and the Moors, [138-140]
Library of the Escurial, [108], [109]
Lindaraja, garden of, in the Alhambra, [184]
Longa, or Exchange, at Seville, [270]
Lope de Vega, the author, [233]
Los Perros, Puerto de, [156]
Louis, the cicerone of Granada, [164], [165]
Lucar, San, on the Guadalquiver, [276]
Luna, Don Alvar de, chapel of, at Toledo, [125]
Lyceum, the, at Granada, [198]
Madrid, [57-102];
approach to the city—arid scenery, [57];
Puerta de Hierro, [58];
Fonda de la Amistad, [58];
bull-fight, description of, [57-73];
the matador or espada, [59];
the Calle de Carretas, [60];
the Calle d'Alcala, [60];
Calesins, [60];
Manolas and Manolos, [60], [77], [78];
the Plaza de Toros and Toril, [60], [61];
chulos, banderilleros, picadores, and aficionados, [61];
interior arrangement of the arena, costume of the actors, &c., [62-65];
Sevilla the picador, [65], [66];
the bull, [67-69];
Juan Pasta, the espada, [69], [70];
the spectators and their excitement, [71-73];
the Prado, [73];
equipages of Madrid, [74];
ladies of Madrid—the mantilla and fan, [75], [76];
the Spanish type, [77];
costume of the men, [79];
trade in water and fire, [79-81];
the Manzanares, [80];
coffee-houses—the Bolsa, the Café Nuevo, Café del Levante, &c., [81], [83];
iced drinks—the bebida de naranja, de limon, de fresa de guindas, &c., [81], [82];
quesitos, little ices, [82];
newspapers in the coffee-houses, [83];
the Puerta del Sol, [83];
the post-office, [83-85];
cigars, [84];
political conversation, [84];
the houses at Madrid, [85-87];
billiards, [86];
Spanish preserves, [86];
jarras for cooling water, [87];
heat at Madrid, [89];
Bucaros, [89];
parties, or tertulias, [89], [90];
morals, [90], [91];
deference paid to women, [91];
the Teatro del Principe, [91], [92];
Spanish dancers and dancing, [92];
the queen's palace, [92];
the meeting of the Cortes, [93];