All these ways are admissible but care should be taken in each case, to make the stitches perfectly regular; it is the direction which is given to the stitch and the number of threads taken up with the needle that changes the appearance of the stitch.

Raised stem stitch (figs. [871], [872]).—Take a very thick thread, such as Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 10 or 20, or one of the coarser numbers of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, lay it as a foundation thread along the line of your pattern and work over it wide stem stitches, as represented in figs. [172] and [173], either in the same number of thread used for the foundation thread, or a finer, according to the stuff you are embroidering upon.

Fig. 871. Raised stem stitch.

Fig. 872. Another kind of raised stem stitch.

You may overcast the same stitch in the manner indicated in fig. [872], using a different colour for the second layer of stitches to produce an agreeable variety.

Border in different kinds of stitches (fig. [873]).—The straight lines of this border are all worked in old German knotted stitch in écru thread, forming a thick round cord which stands out from the surface in high relief; the flatter outlining of the outside figures is done in basket stitch in soft blue knitting cotton. The little oblong figures within the two inner lines of the border are worked in Gobelin stitch, in red embroidery cotton, and the filling of the figures, outlined in basket stitch, in one or other of the Irish lace stitches, worked in white lace thread, either so that all the stitches enter the stuff, or form a network over it.