Nor are earthquakes, those alarming phænomena of nature, so frequent, or so destructive in this, as in many other West India islands; yet, it is asserted by some of the first inhabitants, that earthquakes happened here formerly very frequently; especially soon after the English first took possession of the country; when they were felt severely, several times in a day, for the space of some weeks together, which so terrified the inhabitants, that they were on the point of quitting the place, but happily they soon subsided. These people say likewise, that although no material damage happened at that time, yet that the island was split in several places; and in particular, a large chasm was made in a mountain there called Demoulins, so very deep, that though they attempted with several coils of cordage spliced together, yet they were unable to fathom it. There is, however, no appearance left of that remarkable circumstance, which yet by no means contradicts the veracity of their report.
Hurricanes, those dreadful scourges of the West Indies, are seldom very severe in Dominica; and in comparison with the mischief they generally do in other islands, may more properly be termed only heavy gusts of wind, especially when compared with the destruction done by that in the Leward islands the first of September, 1772; the most dreadful one that for some time has been felt in the West Indies. In the hurricane season, the damage received in Dominica is principally occasioned by the very heavy rains, or by the sea, which sometimes in those seasons tumbles into the bays, especially that of Roseau, in a very frightful manner; and making on the shore, overwhelms the vessels that unfortunately happen to be there at anchor; and sweeps away the houses, or whatever else is in the way of its destructive force.
A particular circumstance of this kind, which happened there the last day of September, 1780, was the most remarkable that has occurred in this island, in the memory of the oldest inhabitant, and did the most mischief. It did considerable damage among the plantations, and in Roseau destroyed several houses on the bay, and several vessels in the road.
The effects of these hurricanes in the West Indies are truly astonishing; for the wind, with a fury hardly credible, blowing from different points at one and the same instant, carries all before it; the rain is as it were taken out of the sea, and hurled on the land in clouds; which from not having time to exhale, is as salt as the briny element from which it was driven; and falls in drops as large as hail stones, affecting the hands and naked face, in the same manner as a severe hail storm; the whole of the scene is truly alarming and beyond description dreadful.
The mornings and evenings in Dominica are in general remarkably pleasant and cool; that is to say, from day break till eight o’clock in the morning, and between five and six o’clock till bed time in the evening. Early in the morning is the time, when those who can afford it, and wish to preserve their healths, will do well to employ their leisure time till breakfast, either riding on horseback, or taking a walk, to enjoy the cool, enlivening breezes. Bathing, previous to these exercises, is also the best preservative of health, and here people have the opportunity of doing it either in the rivers or in the sea.
Frequently bathing in cold water is productive of much benefit to persons in warm climates; as, exclusive of that which arises from cleanliness, so necessary in hot countries, it braces the nerves, and keeps the body refreshingly cool the whole day after. By taking a ride there on horseback, a person in the space of half an hour is transported from an uncomfortable warm air on the sea coast, to a pleasantly cool retreat in the interior parts of the country; which, in an evening especially, he may leisurely enjoy, till disposed to return to town; when the breezes, by that time set in to blow from the mountains, permit him to sleep the remainder of the night in cool tranquillity.
The taking a morning or evening’s walk in this island, by the sides of the rivers, whose glassy surface glides swiftly on, or murmuring water-falls foam to the view, is very pleasing. Does fancy lead him to enjoy the scene, a mile or two, he still finds ample amusement. Viewing the rapid streams, he sees the silvered fry, sporting on its surface, in astonishing numbers. The serpentine windings of the rivers in some parts; in others, the waters wide, deep, and silently flowing along; and in many places, numberless falls of water, tumbling down the sides of steep precipices, or rushing over the tops of huge stones in the beds of the rivers, at once charm both the sight and hearing. Is he fond of the delightful study of botany; here an extensive field is open for his speculation, and numberless curious shrubs, plants, and flowers, that grow spontaneously, afford him ample scope for enquiry?
Rising early in a morning in this country, you have the delightful pleasure of exploring the wonders of the heavens; the morning star, with a rapidity that exceeds all bounds of conception, running its daily course; the sun emerging from the sea, all glorious to behold; and in the words of the Psalmist, “Coming forth like a bridegroom out of his chamber;” and all the lesser planets twinkling into obscurity. In the evening in Dominica, is the most amazingly glorious scenery that can possibly be imagined; the heavens bespangled with innumerable stars, which the dense climate of Europe hides from mortal sight, or which are but barely to be distinguished, are in this island open to full view; and the lovers of astronomy have there an opportunity to make new discoveries in that science.