Fig. 85.

In making a very simple lamp of this character, we may eliminate the strips running up the pipe, and make the bottom with a round pipe screwed into it. Of course a square standard would be more in keeping with the square base and shade. In making the box-shaped base, soft steel should be used. [Figure 81] shows the dimensions of the flat stock. The plate is heated and an inch of the edge is bent over the outer edge of the anvil, as shown in [Figure 82]. The outer edges of the plate can be bent over the end of the anvil as shown in [Figure 83]. When all the edges are bent the piece will look somewhat as in [Figure 84]. The corners are now ground off, and the bottom is made level. A hole is drilled in the center and threaded for a ¾-in. steam pipe. Two inches from the center hole, another hole is drilled and tapped for a ¼-in. or ⅜-in. rubber bushing. In wiring the lamp, the cord should enter thru the bushing from the outside, and under and up thru the pipe to the socket. The drawing for the pipe is shown at [Figure 85], also a bushing which is brazed into the top of the pipe and threaded for a ⅛-in. pipe. The ⅛-in. steam pipe and bushing are shown in position in the illustration at one end of the pipe. This small pipe is for the lamp socket to be screwed onto. The other end of the large pipe is to be threaded and screwed into the base. The pipe should be screwed into the base far enough, so that the threads will not be exposed to the outside and the surplus cut off. The pipe when screwed tight should be brazed to the base. In doing this, the borax and spelter should be applied to the under side, after the base is well heated, as the brass will discolor the iron on the top side. When the pipe is brazed it should be made to stand vertical.

Fig. 86. Fig. 87.

Fig. 88. Fig. 89.

In [Figure 86] is shown the lamp standard with the shade support in position. The support has a hole in the center to fit the ⅛-in. steam pipe at the top of the standard. When the support is in place another ⅛-in. hole is drilled thru it into the pipe. A pin is driven into the hole so that the support cannot be moved around. The lamp socket when screwed down makes the support tight. In making the support the center part is cut from a plate ³⁄₁₆ in. by 4 by 4 in. and ³⁄₁₆ in. round soft steel bars are welded on for the arms. In [Figure 87] is shown the drawing which does not need explanation. The drawing for the pattern is shown at [Figure 88] and the pattern for one section at [Figure 89]. In developing the pattern which is very simple the top drawing, [Figure 88], represents the shade which should be drawn full size. The length from A to B is then laid off on the center line of the pattern, which in this case measures 7½ in. The top and bottom of shade shows a return of ⅜ in. which should be added to the length of the pattern. The width of the top and bottom of the shade is then drawn, also diagonal lines which will complete the pattern. The edge view of the pattern is shown at C. The ⅜-in. bend at the top is made so that the cap can be riveted on. The one at the bottom is to receive the glass. This was explained on a previous page in describing the making of a hall lantern. In assembling the shade, corner angles are used to fasten the sections together, which was also explained for the hall lantern. The top cap is put on last and fastened with rivets.

INDEX