The handling of this sail seems to be a problem that worries many young skippers. No fixed rule can be laid down, it depending largely on the shape of the boat, the position and size of the sails. Generally speaking, with the wind forward or on the beam, the mizzen should be sheeted flatter than the mainsail. How flat, depends upon the effect it has on the steering. If the boat gripes, ease it off; if she is slack-headed, haul it flatter. In beating through a narrow channel work it as you do the jib, but exactly opposite; that is, with the helm a-lee haul in flat; as she pays off ease the sheet. In this way you will help the rudder to bring the boat round. The mizzen sheet should be belayed where the helmsman can readily get at it, so that by working the sheet in combination with the tiller he can control his vessel.

Working to windward:

In working to windward in open water for a long distance stand on the tack which looks up nearest to your destination. On this tack the wind is as foul as it is possible for it to be, and cannot shift in either direction without favoring you. Attention should be paid to the probable direction of the shift, and a course shaped that will bring you into such a position as will lift your vessel up and not throw her to leeward of her course. For instance, if the wind is East, stand on the tack towards the Southeast, because it is probable that the wind will move round with the sun across your bow and be constantly freeing you until you can stand your course on the other tack. This is largely a study of local conditions, and can be mastered only by constant observation of the tendencies of the wind at certain seasons of the year.

Working to windward:

If the wind is offshore, blowing at an angle, so that you can make a long and short leg, keep close under the weather shore, as the wind will draw more favorable there than further out. For instance, if the shore lies East and West and the wind be Southwest, under the weather shore it will haul more to the South, sometimes as much as a point, thus enabling you to lengthen your long leg. Besides, you have the advantage of smoother water.

Working to windward cruising:

If the wind is so foul as to be dead ahead it is waste of labor to try to beat a small boat a long distance to windward. With the best of handling you cannot make more than three miles an hour, and a very good day’s work is twenty miles. Probably the next day the wind will come favorable, and you can make that twenty miles in four or five hours. If you are pressed for time and have to do it, take the first of the fair tide.

Light sails, sheeting:

Never sheet light balloon or running sails; let them sheet themselves. If you trim these sails the way you do working canvas you will destroy much of their power. To get the sail right, slack off the sheet until the luff trembles, then belay. If you sheet them, the whole after angle becomes a back sail. The object is to get them to pull ahead, not sideways. The minute a balloon sail has to be sheeted aft to make it draw take it in and set your working canvas. You will do better with it.

Rounding a mark: