Leaks are most dangerous in the middle body and least dangerous at the ends, but the latter are most difficult to find and stop. Sometimes a small leak may have its outside opening far away from where it appears inside. This is especially so if it comes through the bow or stern timbers. It is seldom that a leak can be stopped from the inside, although it may be temporarily checked. You should always carry a small calking iron, some cotton, a piece of sheet lead, copper or rubber, for use in stopping leaks.
Leaks:
Centerboard boats, if old or not properly built, will leak constantly, especially if they are hard-pressed. They should be thoroughly looked to before being put overboard in the spring, and any bad places cleaned out and re-calked. The king bolt should also be removed and repacked. Another source of leaks is the rudder port. In many boats this opening is not carried high enough, and in bad weather the sea slops in through it. It should be boxed in and carried up to the deck.
Leaks:
Frequently a boat will leak in her topsides when heeled down, causing a lot of annoyance, as water running in there is apt to wet the bedding, etc. These leaks are sometimes the effect of straining, owing to poor construction. At other times they are due to sun exposure. If a vessel is allowed to lie constantly with one side exposed to the rays of the sun her plank will dry and open up. If a boat is not put into commission early in the spring she should be kept well-covered up to prevent this.
HOVE TO.
Leaks:
Leaky decks are difficult to make tight, and are the worst possible nuisance. Wooden decks on small sail-boats cannot be kept tight, unless they are covered with canvas and kept well-painted. Wherever the canvas is pierced, be careful to see that the cloth is carried well up and closely tacked to the object that goes through it. If a bolt or screw for a fairleader or hook passes through have a wide washer at the base and screw it down hard. Around the mast at the partners use a coat made of sheet lead.