This forme of licence to preach and heare confessions, from the Bishop of Guatemala, is worth Englishing for some things in it, which I shall observe with inclosed Parentheses as I goe along for the better reminding my Reader of them.
Wee (Bishops in that Church scorne the name of a singular person, shewing they have the power of all persons joyned together in them, of rich and poore, of subject and Prince) Master and Lord Frier John de Sandoval y Capata of the Order of St. Augustin (though brought up in a poore Mendicant Cloister, yet now he takes upon him the Title of a Lord, and shewes how Prelates in that Church use to Lord it over the people) by the Divine Grace Bishop of Guatemala and the Vera Paz, (he stiles himselfe a Bishop by Divine Grace, whereas he himselfe acording to the common report of him, as also are most Bishops there made, was made Bishop not by any Divine Grace, but by unwarranted Simony and favour from Courtiers, having given many thousand Crownes for that his Bishopricke) of his Majesties Councell (Bishops there must be Counsellors to Kings, and meddle in Court and Politicke affaires) by these Present give licence to Father Frier Thomas of Saint Mary, of the Order of Preachers, contained in the Presentation from his religious Order on the back-side of this our licence, that throughout all our Bishopricke he may and doe preach the word of God (yet I confesse This word of God is little used in Sermons in that Church, but rather the words of Saints of theirs and Fathers, and lying words of miracles, wherewith they stuffe up a whole houres preaching) and that he may and doe administer the holy Sacrament of Penance (not holy as it came from the mouth of him to whom the Seraphims cry Holy, Holy, Holy, but as it came from the head of Rome, who sacrilegiously stiles himselfe Holinesse and most Holy Father. Not a Sacrament as so left and ordained by Christ, but one of Romes seven Sacraments, which as it is a City knowne and distinguished by seven hills, so will that Church be knowne and distinguished from the true Church by seven Sacraments) generally to all persons, which shall have devotion to confesse with him, excepting Nuns (this Bishop had in that City one of the six Judges of the Chancery his daughter a Nun called Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz, whom he loved dearly, and much conferred with her in private in the Cloister, whose private conferences he was jealous they should be knowne in Confession, and therefore would suffer none to hear Nuns Confessions, but such as were his most intimate friends, and of whom he had great satisfaction, alleadging this reason that such as heard Nuns Confessions ought to be very skilfull and experienced in such waies, and men of age; for that greater cases of Conscience were to be met with in Nuns Confessions, than in others. By which reason he unwisely brought an aspersion upon those Virgins, who should live chastly and holily as separated from the world and inclosed, and yet it seems by this Bishops opinion, that within their inclosed walls sins are committed more grievous then abroad in the wide world, and such as may puzzle a Ghostly Father if not skillfull and ancient) and that he may and doe absolve all persons which shall confesse with him (if onely God can pardon and absolve from sinne, Oh how is Gods power arrogated and taken, yea and abused by those sacrilegious Priests!) from all their sins, crimes, and excesses, excepting such cases as are reserved to his Holinesse, and to us by Canon right. (A wicked rule and Canon, a Government certainly most cruell and tyrannicall, that bindes poor wretches in some cases to goe from America to Rome, at least eight thousand miles to cleare their Consciences before the Pope, or else they must die without pardon and absolution from sinne, many having not meanes to goe thither, nor gifts to bestow upon their Pope, who must be bribed to absolve them. O how more sweet, comfortable and safe is it for a heinous sinner and offendour even at home or in the Church grieving within his heart, and keeping within himselfe, to lift up a broken heart, and make that poste and flie with wings of Eagles to the high Throne of Gods grace and mercy, with assured confidence that there only is pardon, remission and absolution granted to all such as doe truely and unfeignedly repent of their sins, crimes and excesses!) Dated in the City of St. James of Guatemala, the fourth day of December, in the yeer of our Lord 1629.
The Bishop of Guatemala.
By the Command of my most Illustrious Lord, Peter Ramirez de Valdes. Secretary.
Thus with full and ample Commission from the Bishop and the Provinciall was I setled in Guatemala, to read and preach, where, (although I might have continued many yeers and was offered to read Divinity, having in part begun it one quarter of a yeere) I continued yet but three yeers and almost an halfe for the reason I shall shew hereafter. So what in that time I could observe of that City, and of the Countrey round about, having had occasions to travaile about it both when I lived in Guatemala, and afterwards when I lived for above seven yeers in the Countrey Townes, I shall truly and faithfully recommend unto my Reader. This City of Guatemala (called by the Spaniards Santiago, or St. James of Guatemala) is seated in a valley, which is not above two miles and a halfe broad, for the high mountaines doe keep it close in; but in length towards the South-sea it continues a wide and champaigne Countrey, opening it selfe broader a little beyond that Towne, which to this day is called la Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, standing somewhat above three miles from Guatemala. Though the mountaines on each side doe strongly environ it, and especially on the East-side seem to hang over it, yet none of them are hinderers to Travellers, who over them have opened waies easie for man and beasts though heavily laden with wares of all sorts. The way from Mexico, if taken by the coast of Soconuzco, and Suchutepeques comes into the City North-west-ward, which is a wide, open and sandy rode; if it be taken by Chiapa, it lieth North-east, and entreth into the City between the mountaines, as before hath been noted. West-ward to the South-sea the way lieth open through the valley and a champaigne Countrey. But South or South-East, the entrance is over high and steepy hils, which is the common Rode from Comayagua, Nicaragua, and the Golfo dulce or sweet Gulfe, where the ships come yeerly and unlade all the Commodities which are brought from Spaine for Guatemala. This also is the way followed by them who take a journey meer East-ward from this City. But the chiefest mountaines, which straighten in this City and valley are two, called Vulcanes, the one being a Vulcan of water, and the other a Vulcan or mountain of fire, termed so by the Spaniards, though very improperly a Vulcan may be said to containe water, it taking its name from the heathenish God Vulcan, whose profession and imployment chiefly was in fire. These two famous mountaines stand almost the one over against the other, on each side of the valley; that of water hanging on the South-side almost perpendicularly over the City, the other of fire standing lower from it, more opposite to the old City. That of water is higher then the other, and yeelds a goodly prospect to the sight, being almost all the yeer green, and full of Indian Milpa's, which are plantations of Indian wheat; and in the small and petty Townes which lie some halfe way up it, some at the foot of it, there are Roses, Lillies, and other flowers all the yeer long in the gardens, besides Plantins, Apricockes, and many sorts of sweet and delicate fruits. It is called by the Spaniards, el Vulcan del agua, or the Vulcan of water, because on the other side of it from Guatemala it springs with many brookes towards a Towne called Saint Christopher, and especially is thought to preserve and nourish on that side also a great lake of fresh water, by the Townes called Amatitlan and Petapa. But on the side of it towards Guatemala and the valley it yeelds also so many springs of sweet and fresh water, as have caused and made a river which runneth along the valley close by the City, and is that which drives the water-mills spoken of before in Xocotenango. This river was not known when first the Spaniards conquered that Country; but since, according to their constant Tradition, the City of Guatemala standing higher and neerer to the Vulcan in that place and Town which to this day is called la Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, there lived in it then about the yeer 1534. a Gentlewoman called Donna Maria de Castilia, who having lost her husband in the warres, and that same yeer buried also all her children, grew so impatient under these her crosses and afflictions, that impiously she defied God, saying, What can God do more unto me now then he hath done? he hath done his worst without it be to take away my life also, which I now regard not. Upon these words there gushed out of this Vulcan such a flood of water as carried away this woman with the streame, ruined many of the houses, and caused the inhabitants to remove to the place where now standeth Guatemala. This is the Spaniards own Tradition, which if true, should be our example to learne to feare and not to defie God, when his judgements shew him to us angry and a God that will overcome, when he judgeth. From that time, and from this their Tradition is the Towne now standing where first stood Guatemala, called la Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, and hath continued a river which before was not knowne, having its head and spring from this high Vulcan, whose pleasant springs, gardens, fruits, flowers and every green and flourishing prospect might be a fair object to a Martials wit, who here would fancie a new Parnassus, find out new steps of flying Pegasus, and greet the Nymphes and nine Sisters with this their never yet discovered and American habitation. This Vulcan or mountaine is not so pleasing to the sight (whose height is judged full nine miles unto the top) but the other which standeth on the other side of the valley opposite unto it, is unpleasing and more dreadfull to behold, for here are ashes for beauty, stones and flints for fruits and flowers, baldnesse for greennesse, barrennesse for fruitfulnesse, for water whisperings and fountaine murmurs, noise of thunders and roaring of consuming metals, for running streams, flashings of fire, for tall and mighty trees and Cedars, Castles of smoak rising in height to out-dare the skie and firmament, for sweet and odoriferous and fragrant smels, a stink of fire and brimstone, which are stil in action striving within the bowels of that ever burning and fiery Vulcan. Thus is Guatemala seated in the midst of a Paradise on the one side and a hell on the other, yet never hath this hell broke so loose as to consume that flourishing City. True it is formerly many yeers agoe it opened a wide mouth on the top, and breathed out such fiery ashes as filled the houses of Guatemala and the Country about, and parched all the plants and fruits, and spued out such stones and rockes which had they fallen upon the City would have crushed it to pieces, but they fell not farre from it, but to this day lie about the bottome and sides of it, causing wonder to those that behold them, and taking away admiration from them that admire the force and strength of fire and powder in carrying on a weighty bullet from the mouth of a cannon, whereas here the fire of this mountaine hath cast up into the aire and tumbled downe to the bottom of it such rockes as in bignesse exceed a reasonable house, and which not the strength of any twenty Mules (as hath been tried) have been able to remove. The fire which flasheth out of the top of this mountain is sometimes more and sometimes lesse; yet while I lived in the City, on a certaine time for the space of three or foure dayes and nights it did so burne that my friend Mr. Cabannas confidently avouched to mee and others, that standing one night in his window he had with the light of that fire read a letter, the distance being above three English miles. The roaring also of this monstrous beast is not constantly alike, but is greater in the summer time then in the winter, that is, from October to the end of April, then all the rest of the yeer; for then it seems, the winds entring into those concavities set the fire on work harder then at other times, and cause the mountaine to roare and the earth about to quake. There was a time three yeers before my comming to that City, when the inhabitants expected nothing but utter ruine and destruction, and durst not abide within their houses for nine dayes (the earthquakes continuing and increasing more and more) but made bowers and arbours in the Market place, placing there their Idoll Saints and Images, especially St. Sebastian, whom they hoped would deliver them from that judgement, and for this purpose they dayly carried him through the streets in solemn and idolatrous procession and adoration. But all the while I lived there the noise within the mountaine, the smoake and flashes of fire without, and the Summer earth-quakes were such that with the use and custome of them I never feared any thing, but thought that City the healthiest and pleasantest place of dwelling that ever I came into in all my travels. The climate is very temperate, farre exceeding either Mexico or Guaxaca. Neither are the two fore-named Cities better stored with fruits, herbes for salets, provision of fish, and flesh, Beef, Mutton, Veale, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Rabbets, Quailes, Partridges, Pheasants, and of Indian and Spanish Wheat, then is this City: from the South Sea (which lyeth in some places not above twelve leagues from it) and from the Rivers of the South Sea Coast, and from the fresh Lake of Amatitlan and Petapa, and from another Lake lying three or foure leagues from Chimalienango; it is well and plentifully provided for of fish. But for Beef there is such plenty, that it exceeds all parts of America, without exception, as may be known by the Hydes, which are sent yeerly to Spain from the country of Guatemala, where they commonly kill their Cattell, more for the game of their Hydes in Spain, then for the goodnesse or fatnesse of the flesh, which though it bee not to bee compared to our English Beef, yet it is good mans meat, and so cheap, that in my time it was commonly sold at thirteene pound and a halfe for half a Riall, the least coyne there, and as much as three pence here. Though all about this Country there are very great and spatious Estancia's, or Farmes for breeding onely, even neer to the Golfo Dulce, where the ships ride that come from Spain, yet from Comayagua, St. Salvador and Nicaragua, is Guatemala stored; But above all are the great Estancia's in the South Sea Coast or Marsh, where in my time there was a Grazier that reckoned up going in his owne Estancia and ground, forty thousand heads of Beasts, small and great, besides many which are called there Simarrones, or wild Cattell, which were strayed among the Woods and Mountaines, and could not bee gathered in with the rest, but were hunted by the Blackmores like wild Bores, and daily shot to death, least they should too much increase and doe hurt. My selfe chanced to bee present at the Fair of the Town of Petapa, with a friend named Lope de Chaves, (who was as they call there, Obligado, or charged to provide flesh for six or seven Townes thereabouts) who at one bargain, and of one man, bought six thousand head of Cattell, great and small, paying one with another eighteen Rials, or nine English shillings a head.
The manner and custome of Guatemala for the better providing both Beef and Mutton for it, and the Country Townes about, is this. Nine daies before Michaelmas, every day Proclamation is made about the City for an Obligado, or one that will bee bound to the City and Country for competent provision of Flesh meat upon forfeiture of such a summe of money to his Majesty, if hee faile, as shall bee agreed upon between him and the Court, and to the Inhabitants of the City; if hee fail in beef, hee is to allow in Mutton so many pounds at the same rate as hee should have allowed beef. If the Obligado faile in Mutton, hee is to allow in Fowle flesh, so many pounds and at the same rate as hee was to allow the Mutton; and this with consideration of the family, what competent allowance of flesh meat shall bee judged for a day, or the dayes that the Obligado shall fail. Besides this the Proclamation is made for whom offers most to his Majesty for one yeers Obligation. So that sometimes it happeneth that the eight daies severall men come into the Court, offering more and more, till upon the ninth day and last Proclamation, the Office is setled for one yeere upon him that hath offered most unto his Majesty. Thus many Butchers are not allowed but one onely Obligado, who also is abridged to so many pound for so much mony, so that if any other besides him offer to kill or sell, he may follow an action and the Court against him: Thus the Obligado (who commonly is a monied man) buyeth by the hundred or by the thousand, as for the present hee findeth the expence of the City, without hee bee himself such a Grazier, as hath Cattell enough of his owne. Though Mutton bee not so plentifull as is Beef, yet there never wants from the Valley of Mixco, Pinola, Petapa, and Amatitlan, and the Marsh and other places. In the Valley fore-named I lived, and was well acquainted with one Alonso Capata, who had constantly going in the Valley four thousand sheep. Guatemala therefore is so well stored with good provision, plentifull and cheap, that it is hard to finde in it a begger, for with halfe a Riall the poorest may buy beef for a weeke, and with a few Cacao's they may have bread of Indian Maiz, if not of Spanish Wheat. This City may consist of about five thousand families, besides a Suburb of Indians called el Barrio de Sto. Domingo, where may bee two hundred families more. The best part of the City is that which joyneth to this Suburb of Indians, and is called also el Barrio Santo de Domingo, by reason of the Cloister of Saint Dominick which standeth in it. Here are the richest and best shops of the City, with the best buildings, most of the houses being new, and stately. Here is also a dayly Tianguez (as they call it) or petty Market, where some Indians all the day sit selling fruits, Herbs, and Cacao, but at the foure in the afternoone, this Market is filled for a matter of an houre, where the Indian women meet to sell their Country slap, (which is dainties to the Criolians) as Atolle, Pinole, scalded Plantins, butter of the Cacao, puddings made of Indian Maiz, with a bit of Fowle or fresh Porke in them seasoned with much red biting Chile, which they call Anacatamales. The trading of the City is great, for by Mules it partakes of the best commodities of Mexico, Guaxaca and Chiapa, and Southward of Nicaragua, and Costarica. By Sea it hath commerce with Peru, by two Sea Ports and Havens, the one called la Villa de la Trinidad, the Village of the Trinity, which lyeth Southward from it five and twenty leagues; and by another called el Realejo, which lyeth five or six and forty leagues from it. It hath traffique with Spain by the North Sea from Golfo dulce, lying threescore leagues from it. It is not so rich as other Cities, yet for the quantity of it, it yeelds to none. There were in my time five (besides many other Merchants who were judged worth twenty thousand Duckats, thirty thousand, fifty thousand, some few a hundred thousand) who were judged of equall wealth, and generally reported to bee worth each of them five hundred thousand Duckats; the first was Thomas de Siliezer, a Biscain born, and Alcalde de Corte, the Kings High Justice, or chief Officer at Court; the second was Antonio Justiniano, a Genovois born, and one that bore often Offices in the City, and had many Tenements and houses, especially a great and rich Farme for corn and Wheat in the Valley of Mexico. The third was Pedro de Lira, born in Castilia, the fourth and fifth, Antonio Fernandez, and Bartolome Nunnez, both Portingals, whereof the first in my time departed from Guatemala for some reasons which here I must conceale. The other foure I left there, the three of them living at that end of the City called Barrio de Santo Domingo, or the street of St. Dominick, whose houses and presence makes that street excell all the rest of the City, and their wealth and trading were enough to denominate Guatemala a very rich City. The Government of all the Country about, and of all Honduras, Soconusco, Comayagua, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Vera Paz, Suchutepeques, and Chiapa, is subordinate unto the Chancery of Guatemala; for although every Governour over these severall Provinces is appointed by the King and Councell of Spain, yet when they come to those parts to the enjoyment of their charge and execution office, then their actions, if unjust, are weighed, judged, censured, and condemned by the Court residing in the City. This Court of Chancery consisteth of a President, six Judges, one Kings Attourney, and two chief Justices of Court. The President, though hee have not the name and title of Viceroy, as they of Mexico and Peru, yet his power is as great and absolute as theirs. His Pension from the King is but twelve thousands Duckats a yeer; but besides this, if he be covetous, hee makes by bribes and trading twice as much more, nay what hee list, as was seen in the Count de la Gomera, President of that City and Chancery for the space of fourteen yeers, who departed in old age from Guatemala to Canaria (where was his house and place of birth) worth Millions of Duckats. After him succeeded Don Juan de Guzman, formerly President of Santo Domingo, who losing his Wife and Lady in the way, lost also his former spirit and courage, betaking himselfe wholly to his devotions, contemning wealth and riches, governing with love and mildnesse, which made the rest of the Judges, who were all for lucre, soone weary him out of his office, continuing in it but five yeers. His successor (whom I left there when I came away) was Don Gonzalo de Paz y Lorencana, who was promoted from the Presidency of Panama to that place, and came into it with such a spirit of covetousnesse as the like had not been seen in any former President. Hee forbad all gaming in private houses in the City, which there is much used (though by women not so much as in Mexico) not for that hee hated it, but because hee envied others, what they got and gained by their Cards, drawing to himselfe thereby all that gaine, spending sometimes in one night foure and twenty paire of Cards, appointing a Page to assist at the Tables, and to see the box well paid for every paire of Cards, which for his, and his Court respect, was seldome lesse then a crown or two for every paire. Thus did hee lick up with his Cards most of the gamesters gaines, and would grudge and pick quarrels with such rich men whom hee knew to affect gaming, if they frequented not his Court at night time for that bewitching Recreation.
The Pension which the King alloweth to every Judge of Chancery is foure thousand duckats yeerly, and three thousand to his Attorney, all which is paid out of the Kings Exchequer abiding in that City. Yet what besides they get by bribes, and trading is so much, that I have heard a Judge himselfe Don Luis de las Infantas say, that though a Judges place at Mexico and Lima be more honourable, yet none more profitable then Guatemala. In my time were such causes at Chancery tried, as had never been, of murthers, robberies, and oppressions, and whereas it was expected the offendants some should be hanged, some banished, some imprisoned, some by fines impoverished, bribes took all off, so that I never knew one hanged in that City for the space of above eight yeers. The Churches though they be not so fair and rich as those of Mexico, yet they are for that place wealthy enough. There is but one Parish Church and a Cathedrall which standeth in the chiefe Market-place. All the other Churches belong to Cloisters, which are of Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, Augustines, and Jesuites, and two of Nuns, called the Conception and St. Catharine. The Dominicans, Franciscans, and Mercenarians are stately Cloisters, containing neer a hundred Friers a piece; but above all is the Cloister where I lived, of the Dominicans, to which is joyned in a great Walk before the Church the Universitie of the City. The yeerly revenues which come into this Cloister, what from the Indian Towns belonging to it, what from a water-mill, what from a farme for corne, what from an Estancia, or farme for Horses and Mules, what from an Ingenio, or farme of Sugar, what from a Mine of silver given unto it the yeer 1633. are judged to be (excepting all charges) at least thirty thousand duckats; wherewith those fat Friers feast themselves, and have to spare to build, and enrich their Church and Altars. Besides much treasure belonging to it, there are two things in it, which the Spaniards in merriment would often tell me that the English nation did much inquire after, when they tooke any ship of theirs at sea, and that they feared I was come to spie them, which were a Lampe of silver hanging before the high Altar, so big as required the strength of three men to hale it up with a rope; but the other is of more value; which is a picture of the Virgin Mary of pure silver, and of the stature of a reasonable tall woman, which standeth in a Tabernacle made on purpose in a Chappel of the Rosary with at least a dozen lampes of silver also burning before it. A hundred thousand duckats might soone be made up of the treasure belonging to that Church and cloister. Within the walls of the Cloister there is nothing wanting which may further pleasure and recreation. In the lower Cloister there is a spatious garden, in the midst whereof is a fountains casting up the water, and spouting it out of at least a dozen pipes, which fill two ponds full of fishes, and with this their constant running give musicke to the whole Cloister, and encouragement to many water-fowles and Ducks to bath and wash themselves therein. Yet further within the Cloister, there are other two gardens for fruits and herbage, and in the one a pond of a quarter of a mile long, all paved at the bottom, and a low stone wall about, where is a boat for the Friers recreation, who often goe thither to fish, and doe sometimes upon a suddaine want or occasion take out from thence as much fish as will give to the whole Cloister a dinner. The other Cloisters of the City are also rich; but next to the Dominicans is the Cloister of Nuns, called the Conception, in which at my time there were judged to live a thousand women, not all Nuns, but Nuns, and their serving maids or slaves, and yong children which were brought up and taught to worke by the Nuns. The Nuns that are professed bring with them their portions, five hundred duckats the least, some six hundred, some seven, and some a thousand, which portions after a few yeers (and continuing to the Cloister after the Nuns decease) come to make up a great yeerly rent. They that will have maids within to wait on them may, bringing the bigger portion, or allowing yeerly for their servants diet. In this Cloister lived that Donna Juana de Maldonado Judge Juan Maldonado de Paz his daughter, whom the Bishop so much conversed withall. She was very fair and beautifull, and not much above twenty yeers of age, and yet his love blinding him, he strove what he could in my time against all the ancient Nuns and Sisters, to make her Superiour and Abbesse, and caused such a mutiny and strife in that Cloister, which was very scandalous to the whole City, and made many rich Merchants and Gentlemen run to the Cloister with their swords drawne, threatning to breake in amongst the Nuns to defend their daughters against the powerfull faction which the Bishop had wrought for Donna Juana de Maldonado: which they had performed if the President Don Juan de Guzman had not sent Juan Maldonado de Paz, the yong Nuns father, to intreat her to desist in regard of her yong age from her ambitious thoughts or being Abbesse. With this the mutiny both within and without ceased, the Bishop got but shame, and his yong Sister continued as before under command and obedience, to a more religious, grave, and aged Nun then her selfe. This Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz was the wonder of all that Cloister, yea of all the City for her excellent voice, and skill in musicke, and in carriage, and education yeelded to none abroad nor within; she was witty, well spoken and above all a Calliope, or Muse for ingenious and suddain verses; which the Bishop said, so much moved him to delight in her company and conversation. Her father thought nothing too good, nor too much for her; and therefore having no other children, he daily conferred upon her riches, as might best beseem a Nun, as rich and costly Cabinets faced with gold and silver, pictures and Idols for her chamber with crownes and jewels to adorne them; which with other presente from the Bishop (who dying in my time left not wherewith to pay his debts, for that as the report went, he had spent himselfe and given all unto this Nun) made this Donna Juana de Maldonado so rich and stately, that at her owne charges shee built for herselfe a new quarter within the Cloister with roomes and galleries, and a private garden-walke, and kept at worke and to wait on her halfe a dozen Black-more maids; but above all she placed her delight in a private Chappel or Closet to pray in, being hung with rich hangings, and round about it costly lamina's (as they call them) or pictures painted upon brasse set in blacke Ebony frames with corners of gold, some of silver brought to her from Rome; her Altar was accordingly decked with Jewels, Candlesticks, Crownes, Lamps, and covered with a Canopie embroidered with gold; in her Closet she had her small organ, and many sorts of musicall instruments, whereupon she played sometimes by herselfe, sometimes with her best friends of the Nuns; and here especially she entertained with musicke her beloved the Bishop. Her Chappel or place of devotion was credibly reported about the City to be worth at least six thousand Crownes, which was enough for a Nun that had vowed chastity, poverty, and obedience. But all this after her decease she was to leave to the Cloister; and doubtlesse with this State, and riches she would win more and more the hearts of the common sort of Nuns, till she had made a strong party, which by this may have made her Abbesse. Thus is ambition and desire of command and power crept into the walls of Nunneries, like the abominations in the wall of Ezekiel, and hath possessed the hearts of Nuns, which should be humble, poore, and mortified Virgins.
But besides this one Nun, there are many more, and also Friers, who are very rich, for if the City be rich (as is this) and great trading in it, they will be sure to have a share. Great plenty and wealth hath made the inhabitants as proud and vicious, as are those of Mexico. Here is not onely Idolatry, but Fornication and uncleannesse as publike as in any place of the India's: The Mulatto's, Black-mores, Mestica's, Indians, and all common sort of people are much made on by the greater and richer sort, and goe as gallantly apparrelled as doe those of Mexico, fearing neither a Vulcan or mountaine of water on the one side, which they confesse hath once powred out a flood and river executing Gods wrath against sin there committed; neither a Vulcan of fire, or mouth of hell on the other side, roaring within and threatning to raine upon them Sodoms ruine and destruction; neither the weakness of their habitation; lying wide open on every side, without walls, or workes, or bulwarkes, to defend them, or without guns, drakes, bullets, or any Ammunition to scare away an approaching enemy, who may safely come and without resistance upon them who live as professed enemies of Jesus Christ. This is the City of St. James or Santiago de Guatemala, the head of a vaste and ample Dominion, which extendeth it selfe nine hundred miles to Nicoya and Costa Rica South-ward; three hundred miles to Chiapa and Zoques North-ward; a hundred and fourescore miles to the further parts of Vera Paz, and the Golfo dulce East-ward; and to the South-sea twenty or thirty, in some places fourty miles West-ward.
From Tecoantepeque (which is no harbour for any great ships) which standeth from Guatemala at least foure hundred miles, there is no landing place for ships neerer to this City then is the village de la Trinidad, or of the Trinity. The chiefe commodities which from along that coast are brought to Guatemala, are from the Provinces of Soconuzco and Suchutepeques, which are extreame hot, and subject to thunder and lightning, where groweth scarce any remarkeable commodity, save only Cacao, Achiotte, Mechasuchil, Bainillas and other drugs for Chocolatte, except it be some Indigo and Cochinil about St. Antonio, which is the chiefe and head Town of all the Suchutepeques. But all the coast neer joyning to Guatemala, especially about a Towne called Izquinta, or Izquintepeque twelve leagues from Guatemala, is absolutely the richest part of the Dominion of this City; for there is made the greatest part of the Indigo which is sent from Honduras to Spaine, besides the mighty farmes of Cattel which are all along that marsh. Though the living there be profitable and the soile rich, yet it is uncomfortable by reason of the great heat, thundrings and lightnings, especially from May to Michaelmas. If Guatemala be strong (though not in weapons or Ammunition) in people, it is strong from hence from a desperate sort of Black-mores, who are slaves in those Estancia's and farms of Indigo. Though they have no weapons but a Machette, which is a short Tuck, or lances to run at the wild Cattel, yet with these they are so desperate, that the City of Guatemala hath often been afraid of them, and the Masters of their owne slaves and servants. Some of them feare not to encounter a Bull though wild and mad, and to graple in the rivers (which are many there) with Crocodiles, or Lagarto's, as there they call them, till they have overmastered them, and brought them out to land from the water.
This hot, but rich Country runnes on by the Sea side unto the Village of the Trinity, which (though somewhat dangerous) yet is a haven for ships from Panama, Peru, and Mexico; It serves to enrich Guatemala, but not to strengthen it, for it hath neither Fort, nor Bulwarke, nor Castle, nor any Ammunition to defend it selfe. Between this Village and the other Haven called Realejo, there is a great Creek from the Sea; where small vessels doe use to come in for fresh water and Victuals to St. Miguel a Towne of Spaniards and Indians, from whence those that travaile to Realejo passe over in lesse then a day to a Town of Indians called La Vieja, two miles from Realejo, whither the journey by land from St. Miguel is of at least three daies. But neither this Creeke or Arme of the Sea is fortified (which might be done with one or two peeces of Ordnance at most placed at the mouth of the seas entrance) neither is the Realejo strong with any Ammunition, no nor with people, for it consists not of above two hundred families, and most of them are Indians and Mestico's, a people of no courage, and very unfit to defend such an open passage to Guatemala and Nicaragua, which here begins and continues in small and petty Indian Townes unto Leon and Granada.
On the North side of Guatemala I shall not need to adde to what hath been said of Suchutepeques and Soconuzco, and my journy that way from Mexico and Chiapa. The chiefe side of Guatemala is that on the East, which points out the way to the Golfe, or Golfo dulce, or as others call it St. Thomas de Castilia. This way is more beaten by Mules and Travellers, then that on the North side, for that Mexico standeth three hundred leagues from this City, and the Golfe but threescore, and no such passages as are in some places in the Rode to Mexico. Besides the great trading, commerce, and traffique, which this City injoyeth by that Golfe from Spaine, hath made that rode exceed all the rest. In July or at furthest in the beginning of August come into that Golfe three ships, or two, and frigate, and unlade what they have brought from Spain in Bodega's or great Lodges, built on purpose to keep dry and from the weather the commodities. They presently make hast to lade againe from Guatemala those Merchants commodities of returne, which peradventure have lien waiting for them in the Bodega's two or three moneths before the ships arrivall. So that these three moneths of July, August and September, there is sure to be found a great treasure. And O the simplicity or security of the Spaniards, who appoint no other watch over these their riches, save only one or two Indians and as many Mulatto's, who commonly are such as have for their misdemeanours been condemned to live in that old and ruinated Castle of S. Thomas de Castilia! True it is, above it there is a little and ragged Town of Indians, called S. Pedro, consisting of some thirty families, who by reason of the exceeding heat, and unhealthinesse of the air, are alwaies sickly and scarce able to stand upon their legs. But the weakenesse of this Golfe within might well bee remedied and supplyed at the mouth of the sea, or entrance into it by one or two at the most good peeces of Ordnance placed there. For the entrance into this Golfe is but as one should come in at the doore of some great Palace, where although the dore and entrance be narrow, the house within is wide and capacious. Such is this Golfe, whose entrance is straitned with two rocks or mountaines on each side (which would well become two great Peeces, and so scorne a whole fleet, and secure a Kingdome of Guatemala, nay most of all America) but here being no watch nor defence, the ships come freely and safely in (as have done some both English and Holland ships) and being entred find a rode and harbour so wide and capacious as may well secure a thousand ships there riding at anchor, without any thought of feare from St. Pedro, or Santo Thomas de Castilia. I have often heard the Spaniards jear and laugh at the English and Hollanders, for that they having come into this Golfe, have gone away without attempting any thing further upon the land. Nay while I lived there, the Hollanders set upon Truxillo the head Port of Comayagua and Honduras, and tooke it (though there were some resistance) the people for the most part flying to the woods, trusting more to their feet then to their hands and weapons (such cowards is all that Countrey full of) and whilst they might have fortified themselves there and gone into the Countrey, or fortifying that have come on to the Golfe (all Guatemala fearing it much and not being able to resist them) they left Truxillo contenting themselves with a small pillage, and gave occasion to the Spaniards to rejoyce and to make processions of thanksgiving for their safe deliverance out of their enemies hands.