Thus they goe round dancing, playing in some places very well upon their Guitarres, repeating now and then all together a verse or two, and calling the Mexican Dames to come out to them with their gallant Mantles to sing praise unto their King of Glory. Besides these they have, and use our Morris dances, and Blackmore dances with Sonajas in their hands, which are a round set of small Morris dancing bells, wherewith they make variety of sounds to their nimble feet. But the dance which doth draw to it the peoples wondering is a Tragedy acted by way of dance, as the death of St. Peter, or the beheading of John the Baptist. In these dances there is an Emperour, or a King Herod with their Queens clothed, another cloathed with a long loose Coat who represents St. Peter, or John the Baptist, who whilst the rest danceth, walketh amongst them with a book in his hands, as if hee were saying his prayers, all the rest of the Dancers are apparelled like Captaines and souldiers with Swords, Daggers, or Holbards in their hands. They dance at the sound of a small drum and pipes, sometimes round, sometimes in length forward, and have and use many speeches to the Emperour or King, and among themselves concerning the apprehending and executing the Saint. The King and Queen sit sometimes down to hear their pleading against the Saint, and his pleading for himselfe; and sometimes they dance with the rest; and the end of their dance is to crucifie St. Peter downwards with his head upon a Crosse, or behead John the Baptist, having in readinesse a painted head in a dish, which they present unto the King and Queen, for joy whereof they all again dance merrily and so conclude, taking down him that acted Peter from the Crosse. The Indians that dance this dance most of them are superstitious for what they do, judging as if it were indeed really acted and performed what onely is by way of dance represented. When I lived amongst them, it was an ordinary thing for him who in the dance was to act St. Peter or John the Baptist, to come first to Confession, saying they must bee holy and pure like that Saint, whom they represent, and must prepare themselves to die. So likewise hee that acted Herod or Herodias, and some of the Souldiers that in the dance were to speak and to accuse the Saints, would afterwards come to confesse of that sinne, and desire absolution as from bloodguiltinesse. More particular passages of the Indians according to my experience of them, I shall in the Chapter following truly relate unto my Reader.
[CHAP. XX.]
Shewing how and why I departed out of Guatemala to learne the Poconchi language, and to live among the Indians, and of some particular passages and accidents whilst I lived there.
Having read in the University of Guatemala for three years space a whole course of Arts, and having begun to read part of Divinity, the more I studied and grew in knowledge, and the more I controverted by way of Arguments some Truths and points of Religion, the more I found the spirit of Truth inlightening me, and discovering unto me the lies, errors, falsities and superstitions of the Church of Rome. My conscience was much perplexed, and wavering, and I desirous of some good and full satisfaction: Which I knew might not bee had there; and that to professe and continue in any opinion contrary to the Doctrine of Rome, would bring mee to the Inquisition, that Rack of tender Consciences, and from thence to no lesse then burning alive, in case I would not recant of what the true Spirit had inspired into mee. The point of Transubstantiation, of Purgatory, of the Popes power and authority, of the merit of mans workes, of his free will to choose all soul-saving wayes, the sacrifice of the Masse, the halving the Sacrament of the Lords Supper unto the Lay people, the Preists power to absolve from sinne, the worshipping of Saints though with δουλεία, as they call it, and not with λατρεία, and the Virgin Mary with a higher degree of worship then that of the Saints, which they call ὑπερδουεία, the strange lies and blasphemies which they call miracles recorded in the Legend and lives of their Saints, the infallibility of the Pope, and councell in defining for truth and point of Faith, what in it selfe is false and erroneous; these points especially, with many more of Romes policies, and the lewd lives of the Preists, Fryers, Nuns, and those in authority, did much trouble and perplex my conscience, which I knew would bee better satisfied if I could returne againe to my owne Countrey of England, where I knew many things were held contrary to the Church of Rome, but what particulars they were, I could not tell, not having been brought up in the Protestant Church, and having been sent young over to St. Omers. Wherefore I earnestly addressed my selfe to the Provincial; and to the President of Guatemala, for a licence to come home, but neither of them would yeeld unto it, because there was a strict order of the King and Councell, that no Preist sent by his Majesty to any of the parts of the India's to Preach the Gospell, should return againe to Spain till ten yeers were expired. Hereupon I seeing my self a Prisoner, and without hopes for the present of seeing England in many yeers, resolved to stay no more in Guatemala, but to goe out to learne some Indian tongue, and to preach in some of their Townes, where I knew more money might bee got to help mee home, when the time should come, then if I did continue to live in the Cloister of Guatemala. Yet in the mean time I thought it not unfit to write to Spain to a friend of mine an English Fryer in San Lucar, called Fryer Pablo de Londres to desire him to obtain for mee a License from the Court, and from the Generall of the Order at Rome, that I might return unto my Country. In this season there was in Guatemala, Fryer Francisco de Moran, the Prior of Coban in the Province of Vera Paz, who was informing the President and whole Chancery, how necessary it was that some Spaniards should bee ayding and assisting him for the discovery of a way from that Country unto Jucatan, and for the suppressing of such barbarous people and Heathens, as stopped his passage, and did often invade some Indian Towns of Christians. This Moran (being my speciall friend, and having been brought up in Spaine in the Cloister of San Pablo de Valladolid, where my selfe was first entred Frier,) was very desirous of my company along with him, for the better bringing into Christianity those Heathens, and Idolaters, telling me that doubtlesse in a new Countrey new treasure and great riches was like to be found, whereof no small share and portion should befall him and me for our pains and adventure. I was not hard to be perswaded, being above all desirous to convert to Christianity a people that had never heard of Christ; and so purposed to forsake that honour which I had in the Universitie, for to make Christ knowne unto that Heathenish people. The Provinciall was glad to see this my courage, and so with some gifts and mony in my purse, sent me with Moran to the Vera Paz in the company of 50. Spaniards, who were appointed by the President to aid and assist us.
When we came to Coban we were well refreshed and provided for a hard and dangerous enterprize. From Coban we marched to two great Townes of Christians called St. Peter, and St. John, where were added unto us a hundred Indians for our further assistance. From these Towns two daies journey we could travail on Mules safely among Christians and some small villages; but after the two daies we drew neer unto the Heathens Frontiers, where there was no more open way for Mules, but we must trust unto our feet. We went up and down mountaines amongst woods for the space of two daies, being much discouraged with the thickets and hardnesse of the way, and having no hope of finding out the Heathens. In the night we kept watch and guard for feare of enemies, and resolved yet the third day to goe forward. In the mountaines we found many sorts of fruits and in the bottomes springs and brookes with many trees of Cacao and Achiotte. The third day we went on, and came to a low valley, in the midst whereof ran a shallow river, where we found some Milpa's or plantations of Maiz. These were a testimony unto us of some Indians not far off, and therefore made us keep together and be in readinesse, if any assault or onset should be made upon us by the Heathens. Whilst we thus travelled on, we suddenly fell upon halfe a dozen poore cottages, covered with boughes and plantin leaves, and in them wee found three Indian women, two men and five young children, all naked, who faine would have escaped, but they could not. We refreshed our selves in their poore cottages and gave them of our provision, which at the first they refused to eat, howling and crying and pulling, till Moran had better incouraged and comforted them, whose language they partly understood. We clothed them and tooke them along with us, hoping to make them discover unto us some treasure or some bigger plantation. But that day they were so sullen that we could get nothing out of them. Thus we went on, following some tracks which here and there we found of Indians, till it was almost evening, and then we did light upon above a dozen cottages more, and in them a matter of twenty men, women, and children, from whom we tooke some bows and arrowes, and found there store of plantins, some fish, and wild Venison, wherewith we refreshed our selves. These told us of a great Towne two daies journey off, which made us be very watchfull that night. Here I began with some more of our company to be sick and weary, so that the next day I was not able to goe any further; whereupon we resolved to set up our quarters there, and to send out some scouts of Indians and Spaniards to discover the country, who found further more cottages and plantations of Maiz, of Chile, of Turkey beans, and Cotton-wooll, but no Indians at all, for they were all fled. Our scouts returned, and gave us some incouragement from the pleasantnesse of the Country; but withall wished us to be watchfull and carefull, for that certainly the flight of those Indians was a signe that our coming was noised about the Country. The next day we purposed to move forward to that plantation which our scouts had discovered, being (as we were informed) safer and more open to foresee any danger ready to befall us. All these plantations lay along by the river, where the sun was exceeding hot, which had caused feavers and a flux in some of us. With much wearinesse and faintnesse I got that day to our journeys end, beginning now to repent mee of what I was ingaged in and on foot, and fearing some suddain danger, by reason our coming was now known by the Indians. The prisoners we had with us began to tell us of some gold that they did sometimes find in that river, and of a great lake yet forward, about which did inhabit many thousand Indians, who were very warlike, and skilfull in their bows and arrows. The one incouraged some, the other much discouraged the rest, who wished themselves out of those woods and unknown places, and began to murmur against Moran, who had been the cause of their ingagement in that great danger. Our night was set, and I and the rest of the sick Spaniards went to rest, some upon the bare ground, but my self and others in hamacca's, which are of net work tied at two posts or trees, and hanging in the aire, which with the least stirring of the body, rocke one asleep as in a Cradle. Thus I tooke my rest till about midnight; at which time our watches gave an alarm against our approaching enemies, who were thought to be about a thousand. They came desperately towards us, and when they saw they were discovered, and our drums beat up, and our fowling peeces and muskets began to shoot, they hollowed and cried out with a hideous noise, which uproar and suddain affrightment, added sweat and fear to my feaver. But Moran (who came to confesse with mee, and to prepare himselfe for death or for some deadly wound) comforted me, wishing me to fear nothing, and to lie still, for that I could doe them no good, and that lesse was my danger then I apprehended, because our Souldiers had compassed me about, so that on no side the Heathens could come in, and flie we could not without the losse of all our lives. The skirmish lasted not above an hour, and then our enemies began to flie back. We tooke ten of them, and in the morning found thirteen dead upon the ground, and of ours five onely were wounded, whereof one died the next day.
In the morning our Souldiers began to mutiny and to talke of returning back, fearing a worse and more violent onset that day or the night following, for some of the Indians who were taken, told them plainly that if they went not away there would come six or seven thousand against them. They told us further, that they knew well that the Spaniards had all the country about, except that little portion of theirs, which they desired to enjoy quietly and peaceably, and not to meddle with us, but rather if we would see their countrey and goe through it as friends, they would let us without doing us any hurt; but if we came in a warlike manner to fight and to bring them into slavery, as we had done their neighbours, they were all resolved to die fighting rather then to yeeld. With these words our Souldiers were divided, some with Moran were of opinion to try the Indians, and to go peaceably through their Country til they could come to some Towne of Jucatan; others were of opinion to fight, others to return back again, considering their weakenesse against so many thousands of Indians as were in the Country. But that day nothing was agreed upon, for that we could not stir by reason of the sick and wounded. So we continued there that night, and as the night before much about the same time the enemies came againe upon us, but finding us ready and watching for them, they soone fled. In the morning we resolved to returne back, and Moran sent the Heathens word, that if they would let him goe through their country quietly to discover some land of Jucatan, he would after a few monthes come peaceably unto them with halfe a dozen Indians, no more, trusting his life upon them; whom he knew if they wronged, all the Spaniards in the country would rise up against them, and not leave one alive. They answered that they would entertaine him, and any few Indians well and willingly; all which Moran and they performed according to their agreement the next yeer following.
Thus we returned that day backe the same way that we had come, and I began to find my self better, and my feaver to leave me. We carried with us some of those young children which we had taken, to present them unto the President of Guatemala. And in Coban the Prior Moran thought he might first do God good service if he christened those yong children, saying that they might become Saints, and that afterwards their prayers might prevaile with God for the conversion of their parents and of all that country to Christianity. I could not but oppose this his ignorance, which seemed much like unto that of the Friers who entred America with Cortez, and increased after the conquest daily more in number, who boasted to the Emperour, that they had some of them made above thirty thousand Indians Christians by baptizing them; which truely they did as sheep are forced to the waters and driven to be washed; so were those first Indians by thousands sprinkled (or if I may use their word, baptized) for they were driven by compulsion & force to the rivers, neither were they first principled in any grounds of belief and Christianity, neither themselves beleevers, nor children of of beleeving and faithfull parents. So would Moran christen these children, though I told him that they ought not to partake of that sacrament and Ordinance of Christ, unlesse they were grounded in articles of Christianity and beleeved, or were children of beleeving parents. But as he had been brought up in errours, whereof that Church of Rome is a wide and spatious nest, so he would be obstinate in this point against me and the truth, sprinkling with water those children, and naming them with names of Christians. After this he sent them well apparelled to the President of Guatemala, who commanded them to be kept, and brought up in the Cloister of the Dominican Friers.
I remained after this for a while in Coban, and in the Townes about, untill such time as the ships came to the Gulfe; whither I went with Moran to buy wines, oyle, iron, cloth and such things as the Cloister wanted for the present. At which time there being a frigate ready to depart to Truxillo (some occasions drawing Moran thither) I tooke ship with him. We staied not much above a week in that Port (which is a weak one, as the English and Hollanders taking of it can witnesse) but presently we thought of returning back to Guatemala by land through the countrey of Comayagua, commonly called Honduras. This is a woody and mountainous countrey, very bad and inconvenient for Travellers, and besides very poore; there the commodities are Hides, Canna fistula, and Zarzaparilla, and such want of bread, that about Truxillo they make use of what they call Cassave, which is a dry root, that being eaten dry doth choak, and therefore is soaked in broth, water, wine or Chocolatte, that so it may go down. Within the Countrey, and especially about the City of Comayagua (which is a Bishops seat, though a small place of some five hundred inhabitants at the most) there is more store of Maiz by reason of some Indians, which are gathered to Townes, few and small. I found this Countrey one of the poorest in all America. The chief place in it for health and good living is the valley which is called Gracias a Dios, there are some rich farms of Cattle and Wheat; but because it lieth as neer to the Countrey of Guatemala as to Comayagua, and on this side the waies are better then on that, therefore more of that Wheat is transported to Guatemala and to the Townes about it, then to Comayagua or Truxillo. From Truxillo to Guatemala there are between fourescore and a hundred leagues, which we travelled by land, not wanting in a barren Countrey neither guides nor provision, for the poore Indians thought neither their personall attendance, nor any thing that they enjoyed too good for us.
Thus we came again to Guatemala, and were by the Friers joyfully entertained, and by the President highly rewarded, and by the City called true Apostles, because we had ventured our lives for the discovery of Heathens, and opened a way for their conversion, and found out the chief place of their residence, and sent before us those children to the City, who witnessed with being in the Cloister our pains and indeavours. Moran was so puffed up with the Presidents favour, and the popular applause, that he resolved in Guatemala to venture again his life, and, according to that message which he had sent before to the Heathen Indians, to enter amongst them in a peaceable way with halfe a dozen Indians. He would fain have had me gone with him; but I considered the hardnesse of the journey, which I thought I should not be able to perform on foot; and also I feared that the Barbarians might mutiny against us for those children which we had brought; and lastly I liked not the Countrey, which seemed poore and not for my purpose, to get meanes sufficient to bring me home to England, which was the chiefest thought and desire of my heart for the satisfaction of my conscience, which I found still unquiet. Wherefore I resolved to forsake the company of my friend Moran, and to desist from new discoveries of Heathens, and such difficult undertakings, which might endanger my health and life, and at last bring no profit, but only a little vain glory, fame and credit in that Countrey. I thought I might better employ my time, if I learned some Indian tongue neerer to Guatemala, where I considered the riches of the Townes, the readinesse of the Indians, and their willingnesse to further their Preists wants; and lastly, their ignorance in some points of Religion, which I thought I might help and clear with some sound doctrin, and with preaching Christ crucified unto them, and bringing them unto that rock of eternall blisse and salvation. I trusted in my friends so much, that I knew it would not be hard for me to take my choice of any place about Guatemala; from whence I might facilitate my returne to England, and write to Spain, and have every yeer an answer easier then any where else. I opened my mind unto the Provinciall (who was then at Guatemala) and he presently and willingly condescended to my request, and counselled me to learn the Poconchi language, (whereof I had already got some grounds in the Vera Paz) which is most used about Guatemala, and also is much practised in Vera Paz, and in the Countrey of San Salvador. He promised to send me to the Town of Petapa, to learne there the language, with a speciall friend of his named Frier Peter Molina, who was very old, and wanted the help and company of some younger person to ease him in the charge that lay upon him, of so great a Towne, and many Travellers that passed that way. The Provinciall as if he had knowne my mind, pitched upon my very hearts desire; and thus two weeks before Midsummer day I departed from Guatemala to Petapa, which is six leagues from thence, and there setled my selfe to learn that Indian tongue. The Friers of those parts that are any way skilful in the Indian languages, have composed Grammars & Dictionaries for the better furthering of others who may supply their places after their decease; but whilst they live are unwilling to teach the languages unto others, lest their schollers should after a good and well grounded knowledge of the tongues, supplant their own Masters, and be means of taking from them that great profit which they have by living as Curates in the Indian Townes. Yet this old Molina considering himselfe in yeers, and for his good friends sake the Provinciall, was not unwilling to accept of my company, and to impart unto me what knowledge he had got by many yeers practice of the Poconchi tongue. He gave me therefore a short abstract of all the rudiments belonging unto it, which did consist chiefely of declining Nounes, and conjugating Verbs, (which I easily learned in the first fortnight that I had been with him) and then a Dictionary of Indian words, which was all the rest of my study to get without book, untill I was able of my selfe to preach unto the Indians, which with much easinesse I obtained by discoursing and conferring with them, what with my private study I had learned.