Oysters and Fish

by Thomas J. Murrey

Salt mackerel is really wholesome food, but, like all cured food, is not so digestible as when fresh: it is therefore necessary to restore it as near as possible to its original freshness. This is done by a thorough soaking in a liberal quantity of fresh water. There is no danger of the fish becoming too fresh; if it does, it is an easy matter to add fresh salt, which is much more acceptable than condensed brine.

In selecting salt mackerel, examine them carefully. If rusty in appearance reject them, “for rust in fish, if I am not mistaken, is as bad as rust in steel or rust in bacon.” Large fish are likely to be poor and coarse; a medium-sized or No. 2 is the most profitable provided the white or under part of the fish is fat. After soaking thoroughly, rub a little melted butter or olive-oil over them, and broil not too close to the fire; do not cook them enough to dry up all moisture, as they would then be unpalatable. After broiling, plunge them into boiling water for a moment to swell them,—this treatment gives the fish the appearance of being fat,—place on a hot plate, add a little melted butter, a dash of pepper, and finally the juice of half a lemon.

To avoid the unpleasantness referred to, drink all liquids first, before eating a mouthful of the fish; masticate the food thoroughly and slowly, and the result will be surprising. Those who eat salt fish alternated with mouthfuls of liquid must expect the oily particles to rise up, and create a gastronomic disturbance.

Fried Porgies with Salt Pork.—The much-abused porgy is one of the sweetest of pan-fish. Select four good-sized porgies, and clean them, but do not remove the heads. Cut into small dice a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork, fry out the fat, and when it is very hot fry the fish in it. While they are cooking, broil four small thin slices of the pork, and serve by placing them on top of the fish. Pork gives a more delicate flavor to the fish than bacon.

Fish Curries.—Cold boiled or baked fish is simply a luxury when warmed up in a delicious curry sauce. This dish may be served at breakfast or luncheon. Americans are fast learning the usefulness of curry-powders; as yet they demand a mild form of curry, and a little flour is added to the sauce to tone down the pungency of the curry.

A Plain Fish Curry.—Fry an onion quite brown in a little butter or oil, add a teaspoonful of curry-powder and half a pint of hot water. Dissolve a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold water; when free from lumps add it to the sauce, then strain; divide the cold fish into flakes, and warm it up in the sauce.

Curry of Scallops.—Wash a quart of scallops in cold water, drain, put them in a saucepan, and let them simmer gently one hour. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, remove husks, and fry a delicate brown; drain from the hot butter, and pound to a paste with a clove of garlic, the grated rind of a lemon. Mix two teaspoonfuls of curry, a little sauce, and an ounce of butter, put it in the frying-pan, and add gradually one half-pint of the scallop broth and the almond paste. Now add a pint of hot milk; simmer until the liquid is reduced one-third, add the scallops, and serve.

Curry of Crayfish.—These may be purchased by the quart at all seasons. They are already boiled. Prepare the curry sauce as above described, add the crayfish, and serve with rice; over all squeeze the juice of a sweet orange.

Curry of Eels, with Rice.—Cut into two-inch pieces one medium-sized eel or two small ones; put them in a saucepan, and cover with boiling water; add a little salt, a piece of lemon-peel, and a tablespoonful of vinegar; boil slowly one hour, and drain. Cut up a small onion, and fry it brown in a little butter; add a pint of the water in which the fish was boiled, and a teaspoonful of walnut catsup. Mix together a teaspoonful of flour with a gill of cold water, rub it smooth, and add a teaspoonful of dry curry-powder. Mix, and add it to the pan, strain, and return to the pan; then add the eels; simmer fifteen minutes, and serve surrounded by a border of boiled rice.

Curry of Shad Roe.—Fry half an onion very brown in a heaping teaspoonful of dripping; add a teaspoonful of curry-powder, and a few moments later add a gill of hot water; simmer five minutes, and add a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little water. When it begins to thicken, strain. While preparing the sauce, boil two roes in water well salted. When done, place them on a hot platter, and pour the sauce over them.