TO PROFESSOR JAMESON.
“Mourzuk, September 17, 1822.
“When I wrote you last, I was just on the eve of departure for the Tuarick country, and in about a fortnight from this date, I hope we shall be on our way to Bornou. We found our journey to Ghaat very pleasant, and our reception very flattering. We were among a brave and warlike race, exceedingly superstitious; yet they were sensible; and though remarkably strict Mahometans, yet liberal in their ideas. The geology and botany of the country are nearly the same as in Fezzan, which I cannot enter upon at present. We made long excursions in the Wady (valley) Ghrurbi, and Wady Shiati, which Captain Lyon incorrectly joins. In our course we examined the Trona Lake, which is situated among amazingly high sand hills, running for several hundreds of miles to the westward, and lie between the Wadies Shiati and Ghrurbi. The lake is in a small valley which runs nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W. The north and south sides are bounded by hills of sand about 400 feet high. The bottom of the lake is a fine sand, on which is found the cegoul, (apparently a species of silex) and a downy grass. Near the place where we entered the valley there is a cluster of date palm trees, and a small lake from which impure Trona is obtained. On the western side is the Trona lake, surrounded by date trees, and its banks covered, on almost all sides, with the grass I have mentioned, and a tall juncus. It is almost half a mile long, and nearly 200 yards wide, of very inconsiderable depth at present (July) from the evaporation of the water, and many places are now dry which are covered in the winter and spring. The Trona is deposited in cakes at the bottom of the lake when the water is sufficiently saturated. The cakes are of various degrees of thickness, from a mere film to several inches. The thickest I could find was not more than three quarters of an inch, but at the beginning of the winter, when the water begins to increase, it is of the thickness I have mentioned, and is then said to be ripe. The surface next the bottom is not unequal from crystallization, but rough to the feel on account of numerous asperities. The upper surface is generally found studded with small beautiful cubical crystals of muriate of soda; the line of junction is always distinct, and one crystal is easily separated from another; when not covered with the muriate of soda, this upper surface is composed of a congeries of small tabular pieces, joined in every position. When the mass is broken, there is a fine display of circular crystals often radiated. The surface of the water is covered in many places with large thin sheets of carbo-muriate of soda, giving the whole the appearance of a lake partially frozen over; film after film forms till the whole is a considerable thickness. The soil of the lake is a dark barren sand approaching to black, of a viscid consistence and strong smell; and on the recently uncovered surface, near the banks, a black substance like mineral tar is seen oozing out. The water begins to increase in the winter, and in the spring it is at the maximum. The Trona is best about the commencement of winter, but disappears entirely in the spring.
“The lake has diminished in size within the last few years, and if care be not taken, the diminution will soon be much greater. Plants are making considerable encroachments, and very shallow banks are observable in many places. On inquiry, we found the quantity of Trona had not sensibly diminished during the last ten years; but, perhaps, this may be owing to there being always easily found a sufficient quantity of it to supply every demand. The quantity annually exported amounts to between 400 or 500 camel-loads, each being 4 cwt.—a large quantity when the size of the lake is considered. It is removed only when there is a demand. Then a man wades into the lake, breaks off the Trona in large sheets, which he easily does, and hands it to others outside, who are ready to remove all foreign matters, and to pack it in the retecious substance found on the leaves of the date tree. The water of the valley is good, and if a well be dug in the very border of the lake the water is also good, and nearly free from saline impregnation. There are a great many springs in Wady Shiati, and a number in the wadies about Ghaat. All of them, however, were so exposed, that it was impossible to make any correct observations. The maximum heat of Mourzuk is 105 Fah.—a great difference from that mentioned by Captain Lyon. The greatest diurnal change is about 15 degrees—a variation which is pretty regular. The hygrometer of Kater varies from 360 to 410—an amazing small range. My worthy friend Clapperton, sends his kind respects to you, and promises to write you from Bornou. We enjoy the best health, and accomplished our summer’s excursion without fatigue. Remember me kindly to Mr. P. Niell, and tell him the Flora of Fezzan, and of the Tuarick country is very poor; but that in a few months I expect to be on a soil more congenial to the votaries of the fascinating goddess.”
TO HIS SISTER.
“Mourzuk, November 4, 1822.
“It is now beginning to get very cold here, the mornings are nearly as chilly as with you, so that we find it necessary to have recourse to warm clothing. The people are really very obliging, but they are great beggars. They are always asking for one thing or another, and very frequently I feel it necessary to reject their suit. They are lively, and the lower orders are fond of dancing and music. The dances are not like those in our country, and the musical instruments and tunes are as rude and wild as is the country to which they belong. How would you like to be locked up always in the house and never allowed to go out, as are many of the women here? The lower orders, indeed, are exempted, and they are more happy than those who can boast of their rank. This place is much more tolerant than many other Mahometan states; and we have lived here as safely as we could have done in Auld Reekie.”
TO THE SAME.
“Gatroni, December 5, 1822.
“We have commenced our journey, and find travelling very pleasant. We find it very cold, particularly in the mornings and evenings—a circumstance which obliges us to wrap ourselves up the same as in your northern regions. Our company is a very large one; it consists of nearly 300 men, of whom 200 are Arabs sent for our safety. I would have been better pleased to have had none, as the road is free from danger, and the people no way to be dreaded. We have never, thank God, had had any thing to fear—our path has been smooth. With good conduct, I expect our dangers will be few, some hardships must, doubtless, be encountered, but where can we be without them? The people here are mostly Teboos, a different race from the natives of Fezzan. Some of the women have very pretty countenances and a lively expression. I have just been witnessing some of their dances, which are really very chaste and pleasing. They want the spirit of your reels, and resemble the movements of a minuet. There is something smooth and sweet in the songs that always accompany these performances, but the instrumental music is grating to the ears. We leave this to-morrow; it is the joyful period we have long looked forward to. We go under most propitious auspices, and all, I trust, will be well.