With regard to the last-mentioned statement of the above letter, we know that Dr. Oudney was resolute in his determination not to travel under an assumed name and character. He was too sincere and conscientious a Christian ever to venture to lay aside the avowed practice of its duties for the attainment of any purpose whatsoever. He was strongly urged by some of his scientific friends to endeavour to control his scruples on this subject, and, like his predecessors in the same scheme of exploring Africa, to travel as an Arab and a disciple of Mahomet, but without success; and he declared that he would far rather abandon the enterprise to which he had been appointed, than even in appearance to renounce his faith. It so happened that the humour of the pasha of Tripoli, and the circumstances of his dominions at the time they were traversed by the mission to which Dr. Oudney was attached, favoured his design. It is quite clear neither Dr. Oudney nor his companions could have travelled in Africa as Mahometans, from their comparative ignorance of the languages of the east, and of the rites of the religion of the Arabian prophet. None of them had the preparatory training previous to the commencement of their journey as was enjoyed by Burckhardt and others; so that they must have been quickly detected as impostors had they assumed the profession of Islamism; and it is very true, as the Doctor remarks, that an exposed hypocrite is an odious character in any country. It is quite obvious, however, that the more familiar travellers are with the language of the people among whom they travel, and the better acquainted they are with their manners and customs, and their religious tenets and ceremonies, they will thereby best secure their confidence, and be the better enabled to adapt themselves to all circumstances, persons, and seasons, which they may meet with, as well as greatly increase their means of obtaining the knowledge of which they are in search. But whether Dr. Oudney’s declared resolution to travel as an Englishman and a Christian be approved of or not; or whether his conduct in this respect may or may not be imitated by others, every one must admire the honest sincerity of heart, and the unbending integrity of principle which his resolution manifested. There is another letter to his sister of the same date as the preceding, which likewise contains some facts worthy of being published.
“Tripoli, October 24, 1821.
“It is with the sincerest joy I communicate to you my safe arrival here. Every thing smiles and promises complete success to our enterprise. Accounts arrived here a few days ago, that the pasha’s army had penetrated to fifty-seven days’ journey beyond Bornou—a circumstance exceedingly favourable to us, as no danger need be apprehended the greater part of the way we design to take. This town has a very indifferent appearance. I expected to see numerous domes and gilded minarets, but such is not the case; a few ill-shaped plain minarets are the only objects that relieve the eye. The houses are clumsily built, with windows looking into a square court. The roofs are all flat, and on them the Moors enjoy themselves in the evenings, smoking their pipes. The streets are narrow, and, from the deficiency of windows, have a very sombre effect. The inhabitants consist of Moors, Jews, Christians, and Negroes; and although most of them are poor and filthy, and live in miserable dwellings, yet they may be regarded as happy; for there is here more toleration than in any other Mahometan country.
“I have been presented to the pasha. He was sitting, with great dignity, on his couch, in the manner of eastern princes, and with a slight nod returned our salutations: he appeared to be about the middle size—very corpulent—and apparently about forty years of age. He was grave—a necessary part of the ceremony, I suppose—for it vanished considerably when he began to converse. He promised us every protection through all his dominions, which extend far to the south, and said he should astonish Britain by the distance he could conduct us all in safety into the interior of the country. The castle he inhabits is far from being neat and clean, and many of his attendants present a very shabby appearance. The neighbouring country has nothing prepossessing; a few date and other trees line the outskirts of the town; but for many miles beyond this there is nothing but sand. In a few days we intend to make an excursion with a party into the mountains, and to the remains of an ancient Roman city. In my next, I shall give you some particulars of the excursion.”
None of the letters in our possession contain any thing relative to the mountains or the antiquities in the neighbourhood of Tripoli; but we remember to have heard extracts of a letter from Dr. Oudney to one of his friends in Edinburgh, dated Tripoli, 30th of October 1821, in the Wernerian Natural History Society; and these extracts formed the result of the excursion which he tells his sister he intended to make to the mountains of Tripoli and to the ruins of a Roman city. His next letter to his sister is dated Tripoli, December 10th, 1821, in which he says—
“I am busy making preparations for my journey, which I expect to commence about a fortnight hence. Every thing goes on well, and the prospects of success are of the most promising kind. The climate here is delightful, neither too hot nor too cold, but a just medium. A considerable degree of cold, however, may be expected during the time of part of our journey; but it is easier to remedy cold than heat. My health is excellent, and I hope it will continue so.”
TO THE SAME.
“Gardens near Tripoli, February 18, 1822.
“I cannot take my departure without telling you that I am well and happy. I should have left Tripoli yesterday had the weather been favourable; and if it be fine to-morrow I shall go. Every circumstance promises a prosperous journey, and in a short period you may expect gratifying intelligence. Our cavalcade is large, consisting of thirty camels at least, and several horses and mules. We have abundance of every thing, and consequently expect to be very happy. Clapperton is well, and sends his best compliments to you.”