After galling, the cotton must be alumed: four ounces of Roche alum for every pound of cotton. When alumed it must be washed off and dried.
The cotton is now to be dyed in a copper containing six pounds and a quarter of best crop madder, with a sufficiency of water. The heat is kept under that of boiling for three quarters of an hour. After being aired, washed, &c. it is put in, worked, and boiled for twelve or fifteen minutes. Some dye it again two days after, because the longer to a certain degree between aluming, dyeing, and drying, and between one dyeing and another, the better. The second time of dyeing eight ounces of madder are used for every pound of cotton. Some dyers gall it twice, and consequently dry it as often, then dye it at once in the madder, having a proportion accordingly. This is a red full-bodied colour.
To dye cotton an ADRIANOPLE or TURKEY RED.
For one hundred pounds of unbleached cotton, take the following articles and pursue the described processes.
Lixivium No. 1. Dissolve one hundred and fifty pounds of alicant soda, (barilla) in three hundred quarts of river water. There must be no more water than enough to dissolve the salt. An egg must float on it or it will not be strong enough.
Lixivium No. 2. One hundred and fifty pounds of fresh wood ashes, and three hundred quarts of water.
Lixivium No. 3. Seventy-five pounds of quicklime, and three hundred quarts of water.
The cotton is to be boiled three hours in a liquor composed of equal parts of each of the above solutions, taken from them when clear and in a settled state. The liquor must be replenished occasionally, so that it shall always cover the cotton during the whole time it is boiling; after which it must be taken out, washed, and dried in the air.
Into one hundred and thirty quarts of a mixture consisting of equal parts of the above three lixiviums, put twenty five pounds of sheep's dung and part of the intestinal liquor, previously well mixed by means of a wooden pestle, and the whole strained through a hair sieve. Then twelve pounds and a half of good olive oil is poured into the mixture, when it instantly forms a soapy liquor.
Into this liquor the cotton should be worked hank by hank, often stirring it; the cotton, after all the hanks have been worked separately first, is then left in the liquor for twelve hours; it is then taken out, lightly wrung and dried. The liquor is put by for brightening. This process is repeated three times during the working; and by the time the solution is all worked four hundred quarts might be used, but that will not injure the clear of it from being applied in brightening; and it must be reserved for that purpose.