CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. | PAGE |
| On the different branches of dyeing— On the drugs used in dyeing—On vegetable and animal substances—On substantive and adjective colours, and mordants—And on the leading facts of chemical science as connected with the art of dyeing—On the calico printer's mordant for yellow and red, and on compound colours—On bleaching—On the theory of fast and fugitive colours—On dye-houses and water—Miscellaneous observations. | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. ON DYEING COTTON. | |
| To dye cotton a Saxon or chemic blue—Sulphate of Indigo—Saxon or chemic green—To set a cold indigo vat—Another Indigo vat—To dye cotton a fast green with the cold indigo vat and weld—Another cold blue vat for linen and cotton—solution of indigo for penciling printed muslin, &c.—To dye cotton a fast buff—To dye cotton pink. | [47] |
| CHAPTER III. ON DYEING SILK. | |
| To alum silk—The blue vat of indigo for silk—Another blue vat for silk—To dye silk violet, royal purple, &c.—To dye silk lilac—Another process for lilac—Another process for dyeing muslin, &c. lilac—To dye silk a violet or purple with logwood—To dye silk violet with Brazil wood and logwood—To dye silk violet or purple with Brazil wood and archil. | [63] |
| CHAPTER IV. ON SCOURING AND DYEING WOOL. | |
| On the action of alum and tartar upon wool—A pastil or woad vat for blue—To prepare the indigo mentioned in the preceding directions—Rules to judge of the state of the vat—Indications when a vat has had too much or too little lime—To work a vat which is in proper order—On the putrefaction of the woad vat—Methods of dyeing blues—To dye wool with lac-dye, scarlet, or crimson—To dye worsted yarn a crimson—A preparation of archil to finish the crimson—on dyeing wool scarlet—To dye wool maroon—To dye wool yellow—To dye wool brown or of a fawn colour—To dye wool purple, &c.—To dye wool green—A chemic vat for green woollen—A chemic vat for blue woollen—To dye wool orange, gold colour, &c.—To dye wool black—Another process for black without a blue ground—To dye wool a grey—Mixture of black or grey with red and blue—On browns, fawns, greys, &c.—On the yellow of Quercitron bark—On a full bright yellow from the same bark—Bancroft's murio-sulphate of tin—To dye wool buff—To dye wool peach—To set an indigo vat for worsted, serge, &c. | [70] |
| CHAPTER V. ON DYEING SILK AND COTTON BLACK. | |
| To dye silk black for velvets—To dye silk black London process—On dyeing cotton black at Rouen—To dye cotton black, London process—For dyeing black, particularly cotton velvets, at Manchester—On dyeing silk and cotton black with a blue ground—Another iron liquor—To dye cotton black by using the preceding solution—to dye cotton violet—To dye cotton red—To dye cotton an Adrianople or Turkey red—Miscellaneous observations relative to Adrianople red. | [105] |
| CHAPTER VI. ON DYEING COTTON AND SILK. | |
| To dye skein cotton yellow—On dyeing and re-dyeing cotton furniture yellow—to dye cotton skein a duck's wing green and olive—Of browns, maroons, coffee colours, &c.—Observations on silk—On ungumming and boiling silk—Whitening—Sulphuring—On aluming silk—Skein silk for yellow—Preparation of annatto for aurora or orange, moidore, gold colour, and chamois—To dye silk aurora or orange—To dye moidore—Process for orange—To dye silk poppy or coquelicot—A cheaper poppy with annatto and Brazil wood—On dyeing, silk a fine crimson—Composition for dyeing silks scarlet or crimson with cochineal—Another process for crimson—Another process for crimson by Brazil wood—Of fine violet—Observations on crimson and scarlet upon silk—On dyeing silk green—On olives—On dyeing silk grey—Nut grey—Black greys—Iron greys—On dyeing silk of a Prussian blue colour—Chromate of lead for yellow on silk or cotton—Conclusion. | [123] |
| Index | [153] |
THE
DYER'S GUIDE.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.
On the different branches of dyeing—On the drugs used in dyeing—On vegetable and animal substances—On substantive and adjective colours and mordants, and on the leading facts of chemical science, as connected with the art of dyeing—On the Calico-Printers' mordant for yellow and red, and on compound colours—On bleaching—On the theory of fast and fugitive colours—On dye-houses and water—Miscellaneous observations.
The trade of a Dyer is, in this country, subdivided into several distinct branches. Thus we have woollen dyers, who are occupied solely in the colours obtained from cochineal, such as scarlet, crimson, orange, buff, &c.; likewise purple, or royal purple, obtained from cochineal and indigo. They are called, also, grain dyers, from the circumstance of the colouring material, cochineal, being in small grains[2]. Yet it ought to be observed, that the term dyed in grain is applied by the public generally in a very different sense, namely, to those cloths the raw material of which is dyed previously to being spun into thread, or at least before woven into cloth; and hence such dyes are usually more permanent than those which are dyed after the materials are woven into cloth. This class of dyers generally dye cloth in the piece, or a number of pieces of cloth tacked together, and worked over a winch in a suitable copper.
There are dyers who likewise dye worsted and woollen yarn of those grain colours, but they are generally a distinct branch. The yarn is dyed in hanks, upon sticks; and, when in the copper, the hanks are changed end for end, so that they may be kept even; such changing being performed five or six times to each turning in.
There are also silk dyers who are grain dyers. These dye in the skein, chiefly for new goods. Some silk, and some mixed silk and worsted goods, are dyed in the piece.
In dyeing cotton, the Adrianople or Turkey Red is, in many cases, a branch of itself, and comes the nearest to what may be called grain or scarlet dyeing upon cotton, because cochineal cannot be applied to cotton to any advantage; yet cotton is occasionally dyed with this material.