Landmarks of Charleston / Including Description of an Incomparable Stroll

by Thomas Petigru Lesesne

Have left elusive traces.

This verse speaks eloquently for it. East to west, the walk is through St. Philip’s graveyard, through the yard of the Circular Congregational Church, thence across Meeting Street, through the yard of the Gibbes Memorial Art Gallery, through that of the Charleston Library Society, across King Street, through the yards of the Unitarian and St. John’s Lutheran Churches. There are two graceful wrought-iron gateways between the Gallery and the Library which formerly had place at the home of William Aiken, King and Ann Streets, used nowadays by the Southern Railway System for offices. Mr. Aiken was president of the South Carolina Canal and Railroad Company from 1828 to 1831. Aiken, near Augusta, popular winter resort, was named in his honor. The railroad company a hundred years ago built the world’s longest steam railroad. In the large yard behind the Gibbes Gallery is an attractive pool with growing water plants. To describe the Gateway Walk at length would operate to rob a visitor of the tranquil pleasure of moving through it leisurely. In the yards of St. Philip’s and the Circular Church are graves of early citizens of Charles Town. It is enough to say that the Garden Club has achieved a unique and worthwhile project. Elsewhere in this book is found information of the six properties traversed by the walk.

ST. ANDREWS HALL SITE, 118 Broad Street: The St. Andrew’s Society of Charleston was organized by Scots in 1729. It is Charleston’s oldest benevolent society, active and flourishing into this season. Its hall was built in 1814 and here the Marquis de Lafayette was entertained in March, 1825. The distinguished Frenchman was the guest of the city and was showered with attentions. Here he met his friend, Colonel Francis K. Huger, who some years before had engaged in the frustrated scheme of aiding Lafayette to escape from an Austrian prison. Here on Tuesday, March 15, 1825, he “received the salutations of the reverend clergy, the officers of the militia, judges and gentlemen of the Bar, and many citizens, after which he visited Generals Charles C. and Thomas Pinckney, Mrs. Shaw, the daughter of General Greene, and Mrs. Washington, relict of the late General William Washington.” In this hall was passed the Ordinance of Secession December 20, 1860 (it was signed in the Institute Hall, however). It was among the many buildings razed by the flames in 1861. The St. Andrew’s Society is housed in these seasons with the South Carolina Society, certain of the chairs and tables used in the Secession convention being preserved. In the years before the War for Southern Independence St. Andrew’s Hall was the scene of many brilliant social entertainments, including balls of that eminent Charleston order, the Saint Cecilia Society, which had its beginning as a musical society, presenting concerts.

Looking North on Meeting Street
Right Middleground, Portico of South Carolina Hall; Background, St. Michael’s Church

JOHN STUART’S HOUSE, 104 Tradd Street: John Stuart, born in England in 1700, came through Charlestown with General James Oglethorpe, founder of Georgia, in 1733. Thirty years later he was appointed the British general agent for Indian affairs in the South. Captured by the Cherokees, he was saved by Attakullakulla (the Little Carpenter). With the breaking of the Revolution he engaged to incite Cherokees, Chickasaws and Creeks (Muscogees) to war against the whites. The Indian outbreak was to coincide with Sir Peter Parker’s attack on Charlestown in the spring of 1776. It was foiled by alert Kentucky settlers. His plot being exposed Colonel Stuart fled to Florida, thence to England where he died in 1779. His property was confiscated by the independent government. To escape the British, it is related that General Francis Marion leaped from a window. His coattails caught and his liberty was in peril. (That’s the story, but the house from which Marion fled is at the northeast corner of Legare and Tradd.) Certain of the interior of this house has been reset up in Minneapolis which has broadcast its pride in the accession.

SITE OF FORT JOHNSON, James Island: The first fortification erected for the defense of old Charles Town was at the northeast end of James Island, within the present-day Quarantine reservation. It was devised to meet the threatened invasion by the French under Le Feboure and was named Fort Johnson in honor of the then Governor, Sir Nathaniel Johnson. In 1759 a second fort of tabby (or tapia) was built on the site and this was the Fort Johnson of the Revolution—“in plan triangular, with salients bastioned and priestcapped, the gorge closed, the gate protected by an earthwork, a defensible sea wall of tapia extended the fortification to the west and southwest.” In 1765 stamped paper was transferred from a British sloop-of-war and stored in Fort Johnson while in Charlestown excitement prevailed, resulting in seizure of the stamped paper by three companies of volunteers under Captains Marion, Pinckney and Elliott. The British garrison was placed under guard and preparations made to resist any attack from the sloop-of-war. At this time was displayed the first form of the South Carolina State flag—a blue field with three white crescents. The naval commander agreed to carry the stamped paper from Charlestown and the incident passed off without clash at arms. This was ten years before the Battle of Concord. In 1775, the spirit of liberty gaining strength, Fort Johnson was again seized by order of the Council of Safety, as a precaution against the last of the Royal Governors, Lord William Campbell, British troops being expected. In November of this year (1775) three shots were fired from Fort Johnson on the British sloops-of-war Tamar and Cherokee, which were engaged in blocking Hog Island Channel. June 28, 1776, Fort Johnson was commanded by Colonel Christopher Gadsden, but had no opportunity of engaging Sir Peter Parker’s fleet, which was repulsed by soldiers under Colonel William Moultrie at Fort Sullivan, known afterward and now as Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan’s Island. In 1780 Sir Henry Clinton reported Fort Johnson “destroyed.” In 1793 the third work at this site was built, but in 1800 a tropical storm so damaged it that it was abandoned, being restored in the War of 1812. At the site of Fort Johnson the Confederate forces defending Charleston located a mortar battery from which to bombard Fort Sumter. It now became “an extensive entrenched camp of considerable strength and capacity.” The Confederates evacuated this fort February 17, 1865, and the works were allowed to fall into decay. Latterly there has been an earnest effort at restoration.

FORT MOULTRIE, Sullivan’s Island: A glorious day in the annals of South Carolina was the twenty-eighth of June, 1776. A partially built fort of palmetto logs repulsed the proud British fleet under Sir Peter Parker. Above this rude fort floated a South Carolina flag with a blue field in which was one crescent and the word LIBERTY. It was this flag that Sergeant Jasper rescued, his gallant deed commemorating his name. The first government of any of the thirteen American colonies was established at Charlestown, March, 1776, with John Rutledge as president, Henry Laurens as vice-president and William Henry Drayton as chief justice. Against Colonel William Moultrie’s rude fort on that June day in 1776 was pitted a trained fleet of eleven armed vessels carrying 270 guns. Moultrie’s garrison comprised 435 men. While Moultrie was engaged with Sir Peter Parker, Colonel William Thomson with 800 men and two cannons prevented Sir Henry Clinton from landing his soldiery. In the Battle of Fort Moultrie the defenders suffered only thirty-seven casualties while the fleet suffered more than 200, and the loss of a frigate. It was from Fort Moultrie that Major Robert Anderson on the night of December 26, 1860, removed his Union garrison into Fort Sumter. The Confederates used Fort Moultrie against the invading Union forces until Fort Sumter was abandoned by the South’s defenders. Before Anderson left Moultrie, he had spiked the guns and burned their carriages. Fort Moultrie helped make Morris Island an unhappy place for Union troops under General Gilmore. At the entrance to the old fort is the grave of Osceola, chief of the Seminoles, who was brought a captive after the war in Florida a hundred years ago. In these years the fort gives name to a reservation which is the headquarters of the Eighth Infantry, a small detail of Coast Artillerymen being on duty with the coast defense guns.

FORT SUMTER, at the Entrance to the Harbor: Facing the open sea stands gallant Fort Sumter. No fortress in all America awakens greater memories. It is a shining emblem of Secession, enduring monument to the incomparable defense of Charleston by the Confederates. The bravest of the brave served within this shell-torn fortress, withstanding the siege of Union land and sea forces. Sumter is not alone a proud fortress, but a landmark invested with a wealth of patriotic sentiment. It is stirring American drama. “In the annals of the Federal army and navy, there is no exploit comparable to the defense of Charleston harbor. It would not be easy to match it in the records of European warfare”—the Rev. John Johnson, D.D., quoted an English historian. In skeleton, Fort Sumter’s great story includes: April 7, 1863, it had part in the repulse of the United States armored squadron after a severe engagement. In August it “suffered its first great bombardment of sixteen days, ending in the demolition and silencing of the fort, chiefly by land batteries of Morris Island.” Confederates effected immediate repairs. While these were making, the defenders of Sumter beat off a night attack by small boats. Then came the “second and third great bombardments, one of forty-one days, and the other, and last, of sixty days and nights continuously, both being borne without any thought of failure or surrender.” The quotations are from an article by Dr. Johnson in The News and Courier. In all, the siege lasted until Charleston was evacuated February 17-18, 1865, “after 567 days of continuous military and naval operations.” The famous fortress of Sumter, named for the Revolutionary hero, General Thomas Sumter, the “Game Cock,” was built upon a shoal, the Secretary of War approving the plans in December, 1828. It is about a mile southwest of Fort Moultrie, Sullivan’s Island, and the same distance northeast of Fort Johnson, James Island. It was nearing completion when on the night of December 26, 1860, Major Robert Anderson removed the Union garrison of Fort Moultrie to it. On the twelfth and thirteenth of April, 1861, it was bombarded by the Confederates for about thirty hours, Major Anderson surrendering. He evacuated the following day, embarking his men for the north. The Confederates at once put the fortress in order for defense. There had been no casualties on either side. Lieutenant Colonel R. S. Ripley was the first Confederate commander of Fort Sumter and Major Thomas A. Huguenin the last, the Confederate occupation extending from April 14, 1861, to February 17, 1865. Fort Sumter nowadays is without a garrison. It is part of the defenses of Charleston. A military caretaker lives within the battle-scarred walls. Modern coast defense guns are mounted. As a grim sentinel, Sumter still faces the open seas.

SITE OF FIRST THEATER, 43 Queen Street: Plays were performed in Charles Town in 1703, according to Sonneck. However, the first regular theater was the Play House in Dock (now Queen) Street. Here in the winter of 1735, a company, “direct from England,” presented its repertory. Members of Solomon’s Lodge of the Ancient Free Masons, the oldest Masonic lodge in the United States, attended, in a body, the performance of “The Recruiting Officer” May 28, 1737. The Federal government has reproduced this theater; it was reopened officially November 26, 1937.