Is an inland county; the northern part bordering on Lough Neagh, consists of most extensive bogs of extraordinary depth and a remarkably black soil, and thereby affords no scenery worth attention. But in the immediate vicinity of the city of Armagh, the tourist is gratified by a richer prospect, where an abundant population finds employment in well inclosed and well cultivated fields. To the southward the appearance deteriorates, especially in that part called the Fews; a district of dark black mountains, where the hand of industry or the eye of taste has scarcely yet penetrated. Yet it is well worthy the notice of the picturesque tourist, from its alpine views, particularly round Slieve Gullien, which rivals the loftiest in England or Wales. In the vicinity of Armagh the soil is fertile, consisting generally of a rich brown loam with limestone and limestone gravel, and the appearance of the gently undulating grounds has been compared to eggs set in salt: bounded on the S.W. by Monaghan; W. by Tyrone; N. by Lough Neagh; E. by Down; S.E. by Louth. The two principal lakes are Carlough and Lough Clay.
Armagh, 62 m. from Dublin, the metropolitan see of all Ireland,—stands on the acclivity of a lofty mountain, the top occupied by the Cathedral which forms a fine object. The place is considerable; the new streets handsome. Archbishop's Palace adjoining the town, a modern edifice of unadorned simplicity: barracks large, airy, and even elegant: see the College; commodious Charter School: New Ch. of white stone with handsome spire: Public Infirmary, Public Library, and Observatory: curious market Cross. Examine improvements of the late Archbishop, aided by the judicious exertions of the present Primate. About 5 m. W. is Clonfeckle, on the borders of Tyrone, deserving the notice of the agricultural tourist as the residence and farm of Dr. Richardson, the cultivator of Fiorin grass. (Curwen's Letters, vol. ii. p. 319.) Also Lisnadell, 5 m. S. of Armagh: handsome Ch. and Glebe House, erected by the patriotic Archbishop Robinson. About 10 m. S. is Newton Hamilton, stated in tradition as the scene of a sanguinary battle between the great O'Neil and a chieftain of Louth, in consequence of the latter singeing the beard of his guest at a banquet, and in which O'Neil lost his life. See also near to it remains of an old Cromwellian encampment: and ruins of Black Bank Castle.
Charlemont, 7 m. N. of Armagh.—A good town and military depôt. See the fort and barracks.
Jonesborough, a small village, but a good station for the visitant of the wild mountain scenery in its vicinity, particularly Slieve Gullien. Rocks, caverns, glyns, from a bold ascent, are the features of the summit of this mountain, without the smallest appearance of any calcareous matter; and although there have not hitherto, says Sir C. Coote, been any minerals discovered here, yet there is a strong probability of their existence from the metallic tinge of the waters which burst from its sides, oozing in plentiful discharges even in the driest seasons. On its summit is a cairn of stones which form the roof of a cavern that at first view appears to be natural, but on minute investigation has evident testimony of being the work of art. The apartment is difficult of entrance, but is large within; and as there is a flagged way to the edge of the lake at the foot, it seems intended for other than sepulchral purposes. Sir C. Coote observes, that perhaps a bolder prospect is not presented by any mountain in Ireland than from its summit, comprising a great extent of country; the lakes and streams, the several towns and well-cultivated demesnes, together with the bay of Dundalk, where the declivity is terminated; these, with a thousand other natural beauties which are presented to view, will repay the fatigue of the ascent, and an awful and impressive pleasure is afforded in contemplating the bold promontories and rugged cliffs bared by the tempests, and arresting the floating meteors, throughout furnishing ample resources for the inquisitive philosopher.
Lurgan, about 14 m. N.E. from Armagh.—A large town, principally of one extensive and neatly kept street; surrounded by the linen manufacture, Ch. and Spire. See the house and handsome grounds of the Brownlow family, with good views of Lough Neagh. The mansion, an antique Castle.
Markethill, a thriving town about 4 m. S.E. from Armagh, with good Inn.—In the Fews a wild, barren, but romantic district, the admirers of Dean Swift will be gratified in tracing many spots noticed by that eccentric character; especially Hamilton's Bawn, Gosford Castle, and Draper's Hill, about 1 m. distant. Throughout these wild and romantic mountains there is something very interesting, awful, and grateful, to the lover of nature, elevating the inquisitive mind, and inspiring a strong desire to explore their inmost recesses, and a desire to become familiar with so sublime a solitude. (See further, Sir C. Coote's Survey of County, p. 35.)
Portadown, 3 m. S. of Lurgan,—is a neat town on the Bann, at the junction of the Newry canal with that river.
Rich Hill, about 4 m. N.E. from Armagh,—is a small village, but deserves notice for the beautiful residence of Sir Capel Molyneux at Castle Dillon, with extensive plantations, lakes, &c. and two handsome columns in honour of St. Patrick and the volunteers of Ireland. The appearance of the village itself is interesting, and considerably improved by the elegant demesne of Mr. Richardson, in full view of the street, with antique Castle. Proceed through a charmingly wooded country towards the Church of Kilmore, and thence by good roads to Loughgall village, where is Drummilly, an ancient mansion with extensive plantations.
Tanderagee, 10 m. E. of Armagh,—affords good specimens of the linen manufacture. Acton village, 5 m. S., the scene of many bloody contests in the feudal times, especially at Points Pass; and near to it is Scarvagh Pass on the borders of Down.
Tynan, about 6 m. S.W. of Armagh,—stands pleasantly on an eminence near a river of the same name. See excellent Ch. and lofty steeple: also in the Church-yard an oblong stone of about 18 inches square and 4 feet long, set upon a large block stone, and capped with another, divided into square compartments, and having vestiges of sculpture. 1 m. ruins of ancient Castle. About 6 m. S. Keady, a small village on the river Callen, crowded with mills and bleach-greens. See the handsome Ch., also the rich lead-mines.
MINERALS.
Lead:—in the vicinity of Tynan; rich ore.
Iron exists, at least in small quantities, as evinced by the chalybeate springs in the mountainous districts.
Fossils are stated, in the County Survey, to be in great variety, as yet little known, but affording ample investigation to the geologist.
BOTANY.
Colchicum autumnale, Meadow Saffron:—on the borders of the Blackwater and Callen rivers.
Euphrasia, Eyebright:—in low grounds near the Lough.
Hippuris, Marestail:—at the mouth of the Bann.
Iris, or Flag:—on the banks of the river Callen.
Lobelia Dortmanna, Water Gladiole:—in Lough Neagh.
Mentha aquatica, Water Mint:—common in low grounds.
Menyanthes, Purple Buckbean:—beautiful specimens in various places.
Nymphæa, Water Lily (White and Yellow):—on the borders of Lough Neagh, and in muddy ditches.
Parnassia, Grass of Parnassus:—on Tynan river.
Phellandrium aquaticum:—on the banks of Cushier and Blackwater rivers.
Potamogeton natans, Pondweed:—in stagnant waters near Lough Neagh.
Ranunculus, Crowfoot:—in the marshy grounds.
Scrophularia aquatica, Water Figwort:—on the banks of Newry Water.
Senecio paludosus, Bird's Tongue:—in low marshes.
Subularia aquatica, Awlwort:—under the water in Lough Neagh.
Thalictrum flavum, Meadow Rue:—on the lake side near summit of Slieve Gullien.
Typha angustifolia, Narrow-leaved Catstail:—very common.
[CARLOW]
Is a small county; interesting to the picturesque tourist from the variety, if not from the sublimity of its scenery; but even in that he may be gratified whilst rambling amidst the mountainous chain from Mount Leinster to Blackstairs on the S., a district awfully grand and majestic, and the range impassable except at Scullogh Gap, resembling the Ghauts or passes in the mountains of India. In the western part of the county also, on the banks of the Barrow, the rugged mountainous range is beautifully fringed with timber, even to the summits of some of its loftiest hills, agreeably chequered by cultivation, and studded with the mansions of opulence, whose snow-white chimneys peeping through the foliage give earnest of the national hospitality that reigns amongst them. Indeed all writers agree, that some of the most beautiful and picturesque scenery in Ireland is to be met with in this division of the county and around the town of Carlow. It is a curious remark of Mr. Wakefield respecting this county, that it has neither a temporal nor spiritual peer resident within it; and yet, though destitute of manufactures, it is tenanted by more wealthy people than almost any other county in the island. It is worthy of remark also, that the fee has been transferred more here than in any other part of the country, and that a great part of it belonged formerly to Quakers. Bounded on the N. by Kildare, E. by Wicklow and Wexford, S. by Kilkenny, W. by Queen's County.
Carlow, 39 m. from Dublin,—is a neat and flourishing town, well situated for inland commerce on the river Barrow. Wakefield describes it as abounding with "houses of entertainment, for almost every shop has attached to it a house which is used as an inn." Examine its Woollen manufactures: some slight remains of its ancient Castle, which recently fell, a mere heap of ruins: the venerable old Ch., from the vicinity of which is a very extensive view, commanding a fertile and well wooded country enlivened by the majestic windings of the river Barrow: ruins of the very fine Abbey founded before the English conquest: the Roman Catholic College, an extensive building, with good gardens and a park for the students' recreation, with the Gaol, Barracks, &c. Miss Plumptre says, that "Carlow is superior to most towns in the kingdom in the neatness of its appearance:" and Hall says that "the ground about it is better improved than in many parts of England." The town and immediate vicinity present some historical recollections; and though the English tourist may not be much interested in the disputes of the Earls of Kildare and Thomond, and the predatory exploits of O'More; yet events of a later date, connected with its siege by Ireton in the civil wars, may lead to inquiry and investigation. It was also the scene of a sanguinary battle, though on a small scale, in the year 1798, being assaulted by the rebels before day-break, and successfully defended by a small party of military and the loyal yeomanry. The visitor will not omit the pleasing domain of Mr. Cavanagh, in the immediate vicinity, from whence the Blackstairs mountains form a striking object; though not lofty, yet bold, bleak, and rugged. Mr. Curwen speaks highly of the scenery in the vale between Carlow and Leighlin Bridge, with enchanting and extensive prospects over a rich country of the most sublime and picturesque features. This valley is about six miles in breadth, bounded on each side by a chain of mountains finely wooded, well inclosed, and cultivated to their summits. Villages and gentlemen's seats to be seen on all sides, with whitewashed cottages well sheltered by trees, and presenting a pleasing air of rural comfort and industry. See Ardglass, 4 m. N., a high green hill, from whence there is a most enchanting prospect of the county, and also Kildare. On its summit is an ancient Catholic Chapel, built in form of a cross, but much resembling a dilapidated barn: read some justly-flattering epitaphs to the Grace family, not badly written. At Kellystown, on the east bank of the Barrow, extensive ruins of a Ch. said to have been first erected by St. Patrick. At Staplestown 2 m. S.E. a pleasing mansion of Mr. Bagnall, once intended to rival Versailles, the grounds owing much both to nature and art, and watered by the romantic little river Burrin.
Leighlin Bridge,—is a small village about 8 m. S. of Carlow, with remains of an ancient Castle and some monastic ruins, which have also been castellated. The view from the bridge with the Black Castle at one end is very fine, though the bridge itself is more venerable than picturesque; built in 1320, by a liberal canon of Kildare. The course of the river Barrow presents views of great fertility and beauty, though certainly not so romantic as many smaller streams. See Bally Ellen Castle in ruins about 8 m. S.; also Ballylaghan Castle, which presents a gateway between two lofty circular towers, in the style of Tunbridge Castle. Though the castle stands low, yet the view to the westward is very fine; and, as its walls are in pretty good preservation, it affords an amusing object of research to the antiquary, who may ascend some ruinous staircases into several of the apartments, and gratify his fancy by the recollection of past times. Ballymorn Castle, 5 m. distant, is an extensive ruin standing in a deep vale surrounded by lofty mountains. It is of the middle ages, but has Gothic windows in the interior, and has the peculiarity of its outer walls being perforated by a gallery from whence the garrison could discharge their missiles through numerous loop-holes. Only one large tower remains. Clonmore is an extensive and pleasing ruin, presenting a good idea of the arrangements, half military half domestic, of the earlier times, though unroofed and much dilapidated, but rendered venerable by the covering of thick ivy that mantles its walls, affording shelter to the birds of night. Fenough, 9 m. S.E., has an old Castle near the church, once a residence of the kings of Leinster. Garryhaddon, 2 m. N.E., a deserted mansion of the Ormond family, has an appearance of ancient magnificence, with an extensive park and gardens. Whilst the picturesque tourist is rambling through the Carlow mountains, he will not omit visiting a deep recess in the Slieumargah, where stand the remains of the Abbey of Old Leighlin, recorded in the earliest monastic legends, but now exhibiting no remnants of architecture anterior to the 12th century, when it was re-edified, after destruction by fire about the time of the Norman conquest. Here was once a celebrated episcopal city; but the ruins of the Abbey, of which the cathedral is still kept in decent repair as a parish Ch., alone remain. The Abbey, though not very extensive, is deserving of notice on account of its pinnacled spire and the rich tracery of its Gothic windows, being about the time of Hen. II. or at least re-edified after a destructive fire; but suffered to sink into ruin since the union of the Sees of Leighlin and Ferns. On the west side of the Ch. under some trees, see the once celebrated well of St. Laferian, now nearly filled up, and near it a rude stone cross. The antiquary will also find subjects of research in some old termini or stones of memorial erected by Bishop Harlewin about 1216, as boundaries of the liberties of the ancient city; one of these is close by Leighlin Bridge, another near Wells, and a third on the mountains. Ledwich gives a good engraving in his Antiquities. The antiquary will derive some pleasure from a visit to a small village, St. Mullins, about 15 m. S.E. from Leighlin Bridge and agreeably seated on the Barrow. This place, particularly its extensive burial-ground, possesses much sanctity in the opinions of the lower Irish, from its antiquity, having been founded as early as the 7th century by a saint of the name, who built the church here and was bishop of Ferns. This episcopal eremite long inhabited the gloomy vale of Glendaloch, was a great patriot, causing the remission of a tax of oxen, and a great prophet also. The ruins, though not very extensive, are picturesque, and the whole scene one of solemn meditation, backed by the lofty mountains of Blackstairs.
Tullow, 10 m. E. of Carlow.—A pleasant town on the Slaney. Bridge of six arches: close to it ruins of an Abbey: Castle converted into barracks: neat Ch. and Market-house:—taken by Cromwell after a sanguinary siege. Hackets Town, about 7 m. N.E., a small neat village, the scene of two violent assaults by the rebels in 1798. Mount Leinster, about 8 m. S., deserves the sportsman's notice, for its hares, foxes, and grouse; also a well said to be unfathomable, and much resorted to for medicinal purposes.
MINERALS.
Limestone in great abundance.