The king resides at the large and populous village of Domoni, where his whole train of artillery, consisting of a condemned six-pounder, is kept in great state! The natives are, in some degree, conversant in the use of small-arms; these, with cutlasses, spears of immense length, and bows and arrows, (the latter chiefly pointed with fish-bone, or flint,) compose their stock of military implements. Their coast being generally so safe, little skill is required to bring a vessel into a safe berth; but it is usual to take on board a pilot, who is known by the name of ‘Purser Jack.’ This copper-colored knave never fails to put off, so soon as any vessel is seen on its way from Saddle Island, and to offer his services, which are supposed to be well requited by a few dollars.
It is worthy of remark, that, on account of the rapidity of the current, which sets off to sea round the black rocks, and would infallibly prevent any vessel from reaching an anchorage, all ships pass to the southern extremity, near Saddle Island, and proceed with a fair wind along the coast. But it is not safe to carry too much sail while under the shore; as violent gusts come down between the mountains, in the most abrupt manner.
The population of Johanna must be rather considerable: perhaps it were not too much to estimate it at ninety, or a hundred, thousands; including all ranks and ages: the towns are large and extremely populous. The Mahomedan religion prevails, though but very few sacred edifices, worthy of notice, are to be found on the island; the principal one, which does not seem to have cost any great sum, being a mosque, built by Halimah, a queen from whom the present king is descended, situated near the landing place, in the town of Matsamudo. Nevertheless the priests are sufficiently numerous; and, as in most countries, enjoy an excellent share of the earth’s produce.
The areca-nut, which grows wild all over the island, but especially on its borders, is here chewed with shell-lime, as practised throughout the East: wild pine-apples, plantains, and the greatest variety of tropical fruits, are scattered over mountains exhibiting a verdure of peculiar richness, and presenting, on the aggregate, one of the richest scenes imaginable. Not a horse is to be seen on the island; but plenty of excellent cattle thrive uncommonly on the rich pastures of the vallies; through most of which streams of the purest water, every where broken by rocks, or gliding over shallow beds of gravelly sand, pursue their eager course. It is rather peculiar, that, among other poultry, the Guinea fowl should abound; thousands may be seen in a wild state, if it may be so termed, when, by throwing a handful of grain at your feet, all will instantly approach to participate of the bounty.
Musquitoes are here exceedingly troublesome, and attack the plethoric mariner with avidity. It is said, that no snakes, or other venomous reptiles, are to be found at Johanna; but, in exchange for that blessing, they are plentifully supplied with bugs. The only vehicle known in the island consists of a machine, termed a palanquin; but which is, in fact, nothing but a litter made of clumsy net-work on a rough frame, and borne by four men, who each take an end of the two side-poles of bamboo on their shoulder. This splendid piece of ingenuity is appropriated solely to the conveyance of his majesty, and of such nobles, and European, or Arabian visitors, as may obtain permission to visit him at Domoni.
Angling is little understood at Johanna, yet large quantities[quantities] of good fish are occasionally to be had. These are either taken by night lines, or are speared by persons standing at the heads of canoes, who, with wondrous dexterity, strike such fishes as approach the surface. This practice, common throughout uncivilized countries, is in great perfection among the Nicobar Islands.
I make no doubt, that, if proper means were used, an excellent supply of stumps might be obtained. What I have said on this subject, when describing St. Helena, would, most probably, be found equally efficacious in many other insulated situations, under warm parallels. On the shoals which lie within the channel of Mozambique, immense numbers of cowries, called by us ‘Blackamoors’ teeth,’ are dredged up: these being current as money in most parts of India, are exchanged, together with live oxen, for arms and ammunition, hatchets, knives, nails, &c.
The oriental practice of dying the hands and feet red, by means of the hinna, which here glows wild in the utmost luxuriance, prevails throughout the island; especially among the females, who color their lips and gums black, with a peculiar preparation, similar to the missy of Hindustan, in order to make their teeth appear to advantage! Although the men are extremely jealous, the women of the lower class are allowed to walk the streets, provided they wear veils. We must not by that word suppose that any particular part of their dress is so termed, or separately made for that purpose: the only mode of concealing the face consists in drawing the cloth, or sheet, which is thrown over the head, so as to cause its meeting forward, leaving a very narrow opening to enable the wearer to see her way.
With respect to the mercantile operations of the Johanna people, I cannot afford a clearer idea than attends the description given by Alwi, a man of some consequence on the island, to Sir William Jones, who has recorded it in the following words. He said, ‘His country was poor, and produced few articles of trade; but if they could get money, they might easily procure foreign commodities, and exchange them advantageously with their neighbours in the islands, and on the continent. Thus, with a little money,’ said he, ‘we purchase muskets, powder, ball, cutlasses, knives, cloths, raw cotton, and other articles brought from Bombay; and with these we trade to Madagascar for the natural produce of that country, or for dollars, with which the French buy cattle, honey, butter, and so forth, in that island. With gold, which we receive from your ships, we can procure elephants’ teeth from the natives of Mozambique; who barter them also for bars of iron, and ammunition; while the Portuguese in that country give us various kinds of cloths, in exchange for our commodities. These cloths we dispose of lucratively in the three neighbouring islands; whence we bring rice, cattle, a kind of bread-fruit, which grows in Comora, and slaves; which we buy also at other places where we trade: all this traffic we carry on in our own vessels.’
The foregoing should evince, that, under an effective government, for the present may be deemed a mere toleration of royalty, the island of Johanna might become important among its neighbours; and, so long as European vessels should continue to touch there for refreshments, might, carry on a brisk trade. Yet the total want of any thing like a harbour, must inevitably prove a great drawback on its prosperity. While there, our ship was driven by a sudden squall, issuing from between two immense mountains, from her anchorage, though she had two anchors out, and rode within a short half mile of the beach; and this, too, in remarkably clear weather.