Conceiving, that, with few exceptions, the customs of many classes among the natives of Bengal, assimilate greatly with those of the population on the coast, I shall now pass on to the ordinary occurrences attendant upon the arrival of a ship off the Sand-Heads, in the Bay of Balasore. It has been already stated, that the voyage from Madras to Bengal will depend, in regard to duration, entirely upon the season. If the southerly monsoon prevails, Point Palmiras, which is at the southern boundary of Balasore Roads, may be made in from three to seven days: during the northerly monsoon, it is usual, experience having confirmed what accident probably first suggested, to stretch over to the opposite side of the bay upon a wind, and then to run obliquely across on the other tack, so as to arrive in soundings of the mouth of the Hooghly, where the tides will speedily convey a vessel up to any place on the river, notwithstanding the wind’s direction. During the passage, under the former prevalence, the land is not, in general, seen until the water becomes obviously discolored with sand. In the first instance, the course is made directly from Madras Roads, to gain a good offing, whereby the dangerous shoals of Pulicat, about five miles north of Madras, may be avoided: the land all along the coast being invariably low, and the shallows projecting, in some places, full ten miles seaward, it is prudent to keep rather towards the middle of the bay, and, from a N.N.E. course, to change latterly to a N.N.W; rounding in, when the latitude directs, until Point Palmiras may be from four to six leagues distant.
It is of infinite importance to be correct in making that point, which is best regulated by a perfect knowledge of the latitude, there being a promontory very similar thereto, thence designated ‘False Point’; by mistaking which many vessels have been lost. When in sight of Point Palmiras, it is usual to await the arrival of some pilot-vessel, of which one or more are always on the look-out below the Sand-Heads, and to proceed into the river under her guidance. The capture of several of those vessels having occurred within these few years, in consequence of French privateers anchoring, as though in want of pilots, thus taking advantage, in the most infamous and unprincipled manner, of an institution, that ought ever to be held sacred, has given occasion for many precautions, which must inevitably be attended with inconvenience, and even danger, on particular occasions. In lieu of proceeding boldly towards vessels anchored at the usual ne plus ultra, the pilots now draw off towards the channels, allowing the ships to follow at some distance, and refraining from sending a boat on board, until, by their knowledge of the soundings, the schooners may be placed out of danger. If all should prove right, which is soon ascertained by the signals made by the mate sent on board the ship to be piloted, the schooners may then proceed with confidence; but if any suspicion should remain, an alarm would instantly be given; and, if possible, the enemy be decoyed among those dreadful shoals, where, being once entangled, he must fall an easy prey to such force as might be sent against him.
There are various channels by which a ship may proceed to the harbour of Kedgeree, situated many miles up the river, but those most frequented, especially by such as import, are the middle, and left channels, which have, however, barely three fathoms and a half at low water; consequently, ships of burthen are commonly brought to anchor, in such positions as may allow their taking advantage of the best part of the tide for passing the shallows: nevertheless, the sand is ploughed up, by the action of a ship’s passage over them, in such manner as would lead one, at first sight, to conclude she were touching the ground, when perhaps her keel is many feet above it. During daylight, the pilot-schooner makes few signals, but, after night-fall, on every heave of the lead, she communicates, by means of maroons, (which are flambeaux of an immense size, alternately exhibited and concealed in a large tub,) the exact soundings in which she is proceeding. No greater care can possibly be taken, than in the Company’s pilot-service, to conduct ships in safety: exclusive of character, there is much at stake; for no pilot who loses one of the Company’s ships, is retained on the list: he is, ipso facto, dismissed. This regulation, which, no doubt, may, in a few cases, press hard on very meritorious individuals, must be considered one of the most important props of the institution, among persons who may have habitually indulged in the use of spirituous liquors to a dangerous excess. I knew some of the pilots who were perfectly sensible of their failings, and could not be induced, either by temptation, or entreaty, to taste of any beverage stronger than water or country-beer, until they had seen their charges moored in safety. That being done—good bye to forbearance!
It is not a little wonderful, that men who have the power to overrule a dangerous propensity, merely when their professional characters are at stake, should at every other moment throw aside that curb, which, if duly maintained, would preserve their health, and render them far more acceptable members of society!
The country all along the sea-coast, on both sides of the river’s mouth, being extremely low, and there being no hills of sufficient altitude to be distinguished at sea, especially on the right bank, very little gratification is offered to the eye by the surrounding scenery. The shelving beach, on either hand, is overgrown, in most parts, with trees rarely exceeding twenty feet in height, whose stems are surrounded with under-wood, or grass jungle, in which abundance of deer are to be found. The pursuit of sport must, however, be invariably desisted from, on account of the immense numbers of tigers which occupy the same covers. It rarely happens that a party land for the purpose of shooting deer, or wild hogs, (which are equally abundant,) without meeting with some accident; or, at least, being frightened so as to produce the most salutary forbearance. About twenty-five years ago, a son of the late Sir Hector Monro was carried off by a tiger from among his comrades, who had seated themselves round a large fire, made to obviate the apprehended danger, while they awaited the arrival of a boat that was to convey them back to their ship.
All the way, from Balasore up to Kedgeree, the prospect, if we except those agreeable sensations arising from the display of vegetation, and from arriving at the ultimate thule of destination, rather wearies than pleases: nothing is to be seen but a series of wilderness, perhaps here and there enclosing a few huts, or, in the broken intervals, displaying some insignificant village, of which the inhabitants are as poor as they are idle. No public edifice; no gay villas; no busy hum of men; no crowded wharfs! In fact, I scarcely know a spot more dreary than the debouché of the Hooghly, for at least thirty miles; or until arrival at Diamond Harbour.
It is usual for the pilot-schooner to return to the Roads, in search of other importations, unless her tour may be over; in which instance, she proceeds up to Calcutta; leaving a person on board, lest the vessel should drag her anchors, and to prevent her getting into foul ground. The purser, for the most part, avails himself of the attendance of the chokey-boats, which are always plying about the mouth of the rivers for the express purpose of receiving packets. In favorable seasons, these boats have been known to reach Calcutta, distant full sixty miles, in one tide. If a schooner should be proceeding up the river, there should be no hesitation in embarking in her: no equal accommodation can, in general, be had: the whole risk, trouble, and delay, attendant upon making a passage in any of the common country boats, are at once annihilated. The pilot may possibly expect some return for his good offices; but, if he likes his company, will, in all probability, set them ashore at Calcutta free of all expence.
I should not envy the purser his trip in a chokey-boat, with no other than a very small semi-circular covering of mats, under which it is impossible to sit upright, except exactly under its centre. In tempestuous seasons, and such are generally the periods in which the Indiamen arrive, there is often a high swell between Kedgeree and Fulta, the river being in some parts from three to six miles across, and running to the southward, from which quarter the wind blows very forcibly for five months at least. Therefore, although so very few accidents happen, it cannot be considered as a safe voyage between the ship and the capital. The chokey-boats are all under the master-attendant, and bear the Company’s colors, on a small staff, or, at times, at the head of the mast, made of a single bamboo, nearly as long as the boat; which ordinarily rows ten or twelve oars. Being of a light construction, and divested of all superfluous apparatus, the chokey-boats proceed at a prodigious rate; and, on emergency, even when opposed by the tide, can gain from two to six miles hourly; according as they may be able to row along the slack water; to pole up against the more rapid streams; or to track up, when both wind and tide are strongly adverse.
When relatives, or particular friends, are on board any ship whose arrival is expected, it is customary to send a stout pinnace-budgrow to meet her at Kedgeree, there to receive the persons for whose accommodation it was provided. When this act of kindness takes place, all the necessary provision, a bed, table, chairs, &c. are put on board, together with a proper number of servants of such description as are generally needful on the water. Few who have any feeling for their noviciate companions on board, especially those who have been in India, quit the ship without taking with them as many as the pinnace can, without distressing all, receive. This wind-fall does not happen every day; though few ships return to India without conveying one or more old standards, either civil or military: but it is not always that notice can be received of a ship’s being about to import; and when such notice has been received, it is not always thought of, or perhaps practicable, to send a pinnace to receive an old friend.
Persons in a delicate state of health should, if possible, wait till some safe and comfortable conveyance can be obtained. The most certain mode is, to commission the purser to hire a vessel the moment he reaches Calcutta, and to send her off under charge of some servant, who should see that no delay were made by the boatmen; which, if paid by the day, would inevitably follow. The misfortune is, that very few can endure to be confined so much longer on board, and often impatiently reject such a proposition: here we may expect to find that the greatest haste makes the worst speed; at the same time that the expences are encreased greatly, while the accommodations are deteriorated in exact ratio.