Among the peasantry, other beegahs are in use, viz. one which has an area of 3600 ilahi-guz, equal to 3025 square yards; but, in general, the dessy-bigah of only 1600 square yards, prevails. This ilahi-guz is divided into twenty-four tesuj, each of which, in the long guz should be equal to the breadth of eight ordinary barley corns; but in the short guz, only of six. The former was used in great works; the latter in small ones, such as manufactures, &c.
All goods being landed under the inspection of custom-house officers, the passenger will have little opportunity of interfering in regard to his baggage, or merchandize. Nor should I recommend his attempting, personally, to transact any business before he may have delivered his letters of credit, or of introduction. That should be his first step; both because it will be the means of managing all his concerns with facility, and, probably, of being comfortably situated, without having occasion to resort to a tavern.
Here I deem it an indispensable duty, to warn the young adventurer not to dissipate his money, ruin his health, and injure his reputation, by frequenting taverns. In England, where persons who do not keep house must occasionally sit down to a meal in public, custom has not only connived at, but sanctioned, the resort to coffee-houses, &c. With us, these afford convenience to thousands, who could never provide so comfortably at home, at the same expence. The coffee-houses in Europe may likewise be considered as the rendezvous of persons in the same line of business, and offering the opportunity for adjusting a thousand matters, which, either owing to remote residence, or to the pressure of other concerns, could not else be brought to immediate conclusion.
The taverns in India are upon a very different plan: they are either of the first rate, at which public dinners are occasionally given; or they are of that mean description which receive all who have a rupee to spend, under the determination of extracting that rupee, in some shape or other. The former class is very confined in numbers, but the latter are abundantly numerous, and may be readily distinguished by the promiscuous company, the shabbiness of the treatment, and the excess of imposition practised, especially on novices. It is extremely easy to avoid the necessity for running into the mouths of these leviathans: all that is requisite, being merely to call at the first office, or shop, and to enquire for the residence of the gentleman to whom the letter of introduction may be addressed. No ceremony should be used in explaining the circumstances, and in soliciting the aid of a servant to lead the way. I never yet heard of a want of civility on such occasions.
In speaking thus confidently regarding a letter of introduction, I am pre-supposing, that the case alludes to a person not appointed to the service of the Company: for I cannot conceive what could induce any man of respectability to visit India, without some substantial recommendation, or, indeed, unless under some agreement, or sufficient assurance of being employed in such manner as might tend to certain advantage. Nothing can be more forlorn than the situation of a mere adventurer, on his arrival in India! With money in his pocket, he may assuredly subsist; but, without some friend to introduce him into society, he may remain for years without being noticed; for, throughout the East, and especially at the several presidencies, he who knows nobody, him will nobody know! Residence at a tavern, is, in itself, a perfect disqualification among persons of repute; as implying either an addiction to liquor, or a predilection for low company.
In saying this, I must not be understood as denying, that some worthy characters have been rescued from perpetual degradation, by accidental intercourse with persons of peculiar sensibility: but such nice feelings, and that unqualified liberality, which may have been occasionally discovered in a few individuals, are rarely united; and, when they are, it too often happens that the power to render them effectively beneficial is altogether wanting. A man may be thoroughly convinced of the worthiness of his protegé, but it will not always follow that society will join him in opinion. In considering the state of society in India, this will be evident: its being strongly inculcated will prove serviceable to many, who may have mis-conceived the subject in general: or who may have been led, by a too sanguine disposition, to deem the whole toil, risk, and solicitude as being over, so soon as their feet can rest on the terra firma of Hindostan.
The ordinary mode in which an European is attacked, on his first arrival at Calcutta, is by the tender of a bearer, carrying a large umbrella, to shelter master from the sun, or rain. There is something about a stranger, in that quarter, which instantly announces him to all the predatory tribe, who wait at the wharfs in expectation of living booty: but, if such were not the case, his total ignorance of the language would be sufficient to determine their conduct. The bearer, who is in league with that numerous horde of miscreants called sircars, abounding, not only at Calcutta, but throughout the lower provinces, speedily conveys the hint to his associates, when a smooth-faced chap, who speaks English well enough to be understood, and who comprehends more than he will acknowledge, advances, and making a respectful obeisance, called a salaam, by bending his head downwards, and placing the palm of his right hand to his forehead, makes an offer of his services to the stray Briton.
However prepared a youth may be, by all the cautious injunctions of friends, and by the detail of knaveries practised by such characters, still it is by no means easy to avoid the snare! When we reflect on the anxiety inseparably attendant upon arrival in a country where every thing is new, every thing strange, and where, in case of disappointment, all must be misery; it should not surprize us to find so much dependence placed on those who cheer the novice, by speaking to him in his native tongue. But, admitting the folly of confiding in any stranger, how is the case to be ameliorated? Ignorant of the language, as well as of the customs; totally unacquainted with any soul on the spot; and eager to obtain a shelter from the oppressive heats; what is the poor adventurer to do? He cannot remain in the boat! He cannot take root, and vegetate, at the water side! Nor can he perambulate the public roads, until fatigue shall sink him to the dust, or some benevolent, and inspired European may, on perceiving his distress, offer him an asylum! What then is to be done?—Why, the sircar must lead him to some paltry tavern, in which he either is interested, or from whose keeper he receives a douceur for introducing the guest. In the mean time, his baggage, with the exception of such minutiæ as may adhere to the fingers of the boat-men, or of those who have the handling of them on shore, will follow, and there will be no want of attention to immediate accommodation.
The tavern-keeper, under the plausible pretext of aiding towards the completion of the youth’s wishes, never fails to enquire whether the gentleman has any friends in town? or even in the country? If affirmatively answered, ‘mine host’ feels himself tolerably secure of his money: but will probably assert, that the friend in town is out of the way, and will not be back for some days: should the gentleman be totally destitute of friends, then comes the rich harvest. Imposition following imposition, swell the bill; which, if appearances warrant forbearance, is kept back as long as possible, under the pleasing assurance of perfect confidence: but, in the end, a catalogue of items is produced, which never fails to alarm, if not to ruin, the unsuspecting victim!
If, unhappily, the guest should so far lower himself as to associate with the ordinary company of the common drinking-room, he is irretrievably gone. Quarrels, riots, and inebriety, must follow; in all probability rendering him subject to the notice of the police. Should his face ever be seen at that office, it would be next to impossible that he should be admitted into any respectable circle. What with lodging, dinners, wines, &c. of the worst description, but all rated at the highest prices, he must be a fortunate wight who escapes under a gold mohur (i.e. two guineas) per day: in general, double that sum is charged; so that a person starts at the rate of £1000. per annum, at least; while, in all probability no established, or even apparent, provision exists, whereby he may be maintained.