Morning visits are not, generally speaking, so uncommon as they were: formerly, few went to pay visits of ceremony during the forenoon; for, the dinner-hour being early, there was little time for such unsocial compliments; whereas, now, that it is generally delayed until about sun-set, that is to say, to perhaps five, or six, or even to seven o’clock, the forenoon is more applicable to the reception of visitors; who, if on any terms of intimacy, do not hesitate to join the family at a little avant-diner commonly called a tiffing, and known among us by the name of lunch. This kind of refreshment (for it is not considered a repast) usually takes place between one and two o’clock, and consists of grilled fowls, mutton chops, cold meats, and sometimes of curry and rice. Being conducted without ceremony, and in a very desultory style, the dropping in of friends never occasions the slightest discontinuance, any more than the accidental arrival among an English party here, of an intimate, while partaking of a slice of cake and a glass of wine. The various formalities are, however, now transferred from P. M. to A. M. and it is usual to see the town of Calcutta thronged with palanquins during the whole of what is called the forenoon; but which commonly is made to extend to three o’clock; about which time, especially during nine months in the year, most persons are at home, divested of their usual dresses, and reclining, in some cool apartment, on a bed, or a couch, for the purpose of repose, and to prepare for that change of linen, and for those ablutions, not forgetting the bath, which are both comfortable, and essential, in so very sultry a climate.
Gentlemen who purpose visiting the ladies, commonly repair to their houses between eight and nine o’clock in the evening; ordinarily under the expectation of being invited to stay and sup: an invitation that is rarely declined.
Among ladies who are intimately acquainted, morning visits are common, but all who wish to preserve etiquette, or merely return the compliment by way of keeping up a distant acquaintance, confine them to the evening; when, attended by one or more gentlemen, they proceed, in their palanquins, on a tour devoted entirely to this cold exchange of what is called civility.
Among the several justly-exploded ceremonies, we may reckon that, which existed until within the last twenty years, of ‘SITTING UP,’ as it was called: we must, at the same time, do the ci-devant inhabitants of Calcutta the justice to remark, that the practice was evidently founded on good-will and hospitality; although it bore so strong a resemblance to the exhibition of a cargo of slaves, as to occasion many a caricature, and many a satirical expenditure of ink. This ‘SITTING UP,’ as it was termed, generally took place at the house of some lady of rank, or fortune, who, for three successive nights, threw open her mansion towards the evening, for the purpose of receiving all, both ladies and gentlemen, who chose to pay their respects to such ladies as might have recently arrived in the country. The fair damsels were thus at once introduced to the whole settlement, and not unfrequently obtained a variety of offers from men of the first consequence. Many matches have, indeed, been concluded even before the third night of exhibition. If we consider the fatigue attendant upon the return of these numerous visits, (for the slightest omission would have been an unpardonable offence,) and that the novelty of riding in a boçhah, (or chair-palanquin,) would not be agreeable to all, we may form some idea of what many a delicate female, melting with the heat, tight-laced, and tormented with musquito-bites, must have undergone during the performance of this ceremony. To the gentlemen of the settlement, it might have been abundantly pleasing; they had nothing to do but to post about in their palanquins from one sitting up to another, and there either to admire, or to quiz, the fair sufferers, according as their taste, or caprice, might dictate. The throng has, in some lovely instances, been so very great, that even a fourth night has been required for the benefit of bachelors from the interior!
The great encrease, not only of inhabitants, but of houses, some of which are situated at an inconvenient distance, has rendered the custom of ‘sitting up’ nearly obsolete. The modern instances of its continuance, are, indeed, so very few, and those few so modified, as barely to leave room for saying that it is at all in use. In these days, a lady is received on landing by her friends, who, generally, after a few days of repose, and of preparation, invite their acquaintances, to be introduced to their fair companion, who, in the course of a week, usually returns their visits. This is merely a partial shew, compared with what formerly took place, and is no more than would be practised in England on a similar occasion: it is true, that, where superlative attractions exist, many, who probably are not in the habit of visiting the family, will often avail themselves of the opportunity to chaperon some acquaintance, merely with the intention of gaining a peep at the goddess.
The company rarely sit long at table after dinner, unless among those convivial souls who deem the presence of a petticoat a perfect nuisance. Such were formerly very numerous, but of late, the society of the sex has been more duly appreciated, and we see the gentlemen quitting the bottle to retire to the chabootah, (or terrace,) there to enjoy the cool air of the evening, and to take a cup of tea, or to smoke their hookahs; after which, those who have business to attend, proceed to their offices, &c., while the larger portion separate to partake of a family supper with some of their female acquaintances. Very little ceremony is used on such occasions; the gentlemen leaving their hats in their palanquins, and ordering their servants to proceed, as a matter of course, to the houses whither their palanquins are to be conveyed. In many instances, these evening visits are paid in a very airy manner: coats being often dispensed with; the gentlemen wearing only an upper and an under waistcoat, both of white linen, and the former having sleeves. Such would appear an extraordinary freedom, were it not established by custom; though, it generally happens, that gentlemen newly arrived from Europe, especially the officers of his Majesty’s regiments, wear their coats, and prefer undergoing a kind of warm bath of the most distressing description, both to themselves, and to their neighbours; but, in the course of time, they fall in with the local usages, and, though they may enter the room in that cumbrous habit, rarely fail to divest themselves of it, so soon as the first ceremonies are over, in favor of an upper waistcoat, which a servant has in readiness.
Supper, though enumerated among the ordinary meals of a family residing at the Presidency, seems rather to be the means of concentrating the party, than partaken of with that keenness we often witness in our colder climate. Few do more than take a glass or two of wine, generally Claret, with, perhaps, a crust, and a morsel of cheese: the appetite at this hour, say ten, being by no means keen. After supper, the hookah is again produced, and, after sitting awhile in conversation, the lady of the house retires: few remain long after that has taken place. On the whole, it may be said, that at least four in five are in bed before twelve; or, perhaps, before eleven o’clock. From this, I exempt all concerned in card-parties, especially if the stakes run high: for such, no measure, or calculation, exists; the whole night being occasionally passed at tradrille, which is the favorite game, or at whist, &c. Such exceptions fortunately are not very numerous; it would certainly be difficult to find any city, wherein celibacy among the males is so prevalent, as at Calcutta, that can boast of so few excesses of any description. The European inhabitants of respectability certainly live well; that is, they keep as good tables as the seasons may enable them to furnish; and they drink none but the best of wines: Claret, Madeira, and Port, are in general use.
Of the former, there are two kinds; one called ‘English Claret,’ which is the best wine that France produces, manufactured after its arrival in England, with an addition of Brandy, &c., to enable its standing the hot climate of India, and with other liquids, to give it a richer body. Such wine generally sells at Calcutta for about thirty rupees per dozen, equal to six shillings and threepence per bottle.
The other kind of Claret, which is the purest that can be obtained from the most valuable vineyards near Bourdeaux, the Coté-Roti, Chateau Margeau, &c., can rarely be obtained, except in times of peace, when sixteen rupees per dozen, equal to about three shillings and four-pence per bottle, may be considered a fair price. This wine, however well packed, and carefully treated, will not keep long: at the end of six or seven months after arrival, it will be found rather sharp, and then becomes extremely pernicious to the bowels. When fresh, it is remarkably fine, and delicate, and being far lighter than the ‘English Claret,’ is certainly best adapted to the climate. Occasionally, a few chests of Claret are imported at Serampore, a Danish settlement, about sixteen miles above Calcutta, but experience has proved, that, in regard to wholesomeness, as well as to flavor, it is far inferior to either of the former: the severe bowel-complaints its free use often occasions, are attributed to the litharge with which it is said to be fined; hence, what is called ‘Danish Claret’ is rarely found at any gentleman’s table.
About thirty years back, a large quantity of Madeira used to be imported at Calcutta, by the Company, in pipes of extra-measurement, for the use of their servants. Sometimes nearly a thousand pipes arrived during the course of the season; being of prime quality, and laid in by the Company’s agents at Fonchall, it always sold well at the annual auctions: six hundred rupees was a common average. For some time past, the Company have, generally speaking, declined this trade, which was of extensive convenience to the residents at Bengal, and must be supposed to have paid them amply for their outward tonnage, while the returning tonnage was always at liberty to receive investments for the Europe market. The cause of this relinquishment has been attributed to various circumstances; but, I believe, is to be found in that immense supply which, at the close of the war in 1782, glutted the markets for some seasons. Until that date, the Company had nearly monopolized the trade, there being no competitors of consequence, though the speculation was open to all; but its excellence, which seemed to offer full seventy pounds for every pipe, that cost perhaps only twenty-five, or thirty, on the Island of Madeira, induced the French, Portugueze, and some English speculators, to embark on vessels under Imperial colors, and to become rivals in a trade which could not bear extension beyond certain narrow limits. All could not be supplied at Fonchall; therefore Teneriffe, and other inferior wines, were substituted; whereby the depreciation even of the best genuine Madeira was enhanced, and it fell, in consequence, full fifty per cent. Of late years, very little of the latter has found its way to India; the produce of the island being almost wholly required for the Europe market; but the merchants in that quarter have found out the way to doctor the inferior wines of the neighbouring isles, so as to sell them at a good price, under the captivating titles of ‘London Particular,’ ‘London Choice Particular Particular,’ &c. &c.