The fresh-water anchovy, called by the natives çhelwar, is to be found in shoals on every flat sand throughout the great rivers: these are generally scared, so as to precipitate themselves on the beach, by two men, who, wading in the water up to their knees, gradually draw a line of fifty or sixty feet in length, every where laden with small, colored rags, in such manner as to enclose the çhelwahs in a crescent, and ultimately to drive them ashore. Occasionally, mullets, of a small size, are found among the booty: they are remarkably sweet and firm. Nothing can be more common than to see shoals of them struggling against the current, especially in the cold months, with their eyes out of the water. Their motions are very nimble, but it is not uncommon to see several killed by a round of small shot, from a common fowling-piece: they are not to be taken by angling. As to the tingrah, a kind of freshwater gurnet, it is extremely voracious, and grows to a good size; often weighing eight or nine lbs.; though the average may be from two to four. They are very strong, and afford ample amusement when hooked. The skait grows to full twelve or fourteen lbs., and is common in all the great rivers; but, it must be handled with caution, on account of its having a dreadful spine about the centre of its tail. These two last-mentioned fishes are rarely seen at table; nor is the buallee, which is rather flat, and has a continued abdominal fin, the same as eels. This fish is extremely coarse, but desperately rapacious; seizing almost any bait with avidity, but affording little sport when hooked.
The puftah is of the same description, but, in lieu of weighing, as the buallee often does, from ten to fifteen lbs., seldom amounts to so many ounces. Its flesh is remarkably rich and sweet, but, when hooked, it is as little disposed as the former to resist. The most esteemed fish is, that called by the natives tupsey, but by us ‘mango-fish,’ on account of its appearing about the time that mangoes first come into season: it comes up with the tide. In appearance, it is not unlike the smelt, though rather deeper, and with reddish fins. The flesh of this fish is fine, but its roe is deservedly esteemed to be delicious. An immense quantity are cured, by being slightly salted, and sun-dried; after which, they are smoked for a short time over a fire made of chaff, &c.
Turtle, of about a cwt., are to be found in almost every river and creek, as also in some of the large jeels; though they are very rarely seen in standing waters, and then, perhaps, only in a state of migration. The flesh of these is peculiarly unwholesome; and, so far from being, like the sea-turtles, composed of parts resembling fish, flesh, and fowl, may be aptly compared with bacon of the coarsest description, with some tendency to rancidity. The batchwah, or ‘freshwater herring,’ (though it has no scales,) is one of the best fishes the Indian rivers produce; but a general prejudice is entertained, with much justice too, against its selection of food. The most appropriate baits for most fishes are the goorgoory, (or gryllus monstrosus,) and the cockroach (or blatta). It would be endless to recount all the kinds of fishes to be found in the streams and lakes of India; but it may justly be stated, that, in some parts, their numbers are so great as absolutely to corrupt the waters. With respect to the minor species of fish, occasionally served at table, they are very numerous, and, in most places, abundant: every creek and jeel is replete with them, and every village in their vicinity contains persons provided with some kind of apparatus suited to catching an ample supply. On the larger pieces of water, there are usually either canoes or dingies, which, together with their owners, are subservient to the jemmadars, or head-boroughs, and may also be set in motion for a very trivial present, made ostensibly to the laborer, but commonly transferred privately to that proud, imperious, and avaricious officer.
Poultry next come under consideration: of this, great variety is to be found. Fowls, capons, ducks, geese, turkies, and pigeons, are for sale in every city, or great station, at very moderate prices. In general, taking an average of all places, fine chickens, called chujahs, may be had at ten for a rupee (i.e. 3d. each); middle-sized, or meem-kabobbies, (small roasters,) at seven or eight for a rupee (about 4d. each); and good-sized roasters, or kabobbies, at five for a rupee (about 6d. each).
Capons are only to be had in particular parts of the country; generally they are white, and so cheap as to give ten or twelve for a rupee; though I have purchased no less than twenty-nine for that sum, (i.e. 1d. each,) in the Tomar district, where they are produced in immense numbers by the Pahariahs, or Hill people, of that mountainous district. These people are more immediately distinguished by the designation of Dangahs: they are of a small stature, very, very poor, rather squalid, but capable of undergoing great fatigue: they are wonderfully adroit in the exercise of the bow; and, after performing the little labor needful for the cultivation of the vallies, generally repair, at certain seasons, to the military and civil stations in the neighbouring districts of Ramghur, &c., where they serve as bearers; especially on the new-road, which is much frequented by gentlemen travelling dawk, (post,) in palanquins, to or from the upper stations.
Ducks are of various prices, but may be considered at an average of four or five for a rupee (about 7½d. or 6d. each); and geese at a rupee each. These thrive prodigiously throughout India; but it is far otherwise with turkies, which are extremely tender, and cannot endure the great heats of summer, unless allowed to graze upon a plot well watered, and generally sheltered from the sun. It is not uncommon to see them crowding to some little verdant spot under the shade of the lee-side, where a current of air, refrigerated by the tatties, passes out from the bungalow, &c. Without some such restorative, they would, to a certainty, pine away, and speedily disappoint the hopes of their owner. Among the grass on the plots generally preserved near the dwelling, it is common to see immense numbers of ants, of all descriptions, which resort thither both for coolness, and for the collection of the seeds that are perpetually falling. It is very strange, but true, that these little depredators are not easily deterred, by the water being laid on occasionally, from forming their nest in such plots of grass, though they generally prefer some dry, hard walk, or level area, along which they form little paths, by laying the gravel, &c., aside; so that their progress is not obstructed when robbing some store. Many of these paths may be traced for fifty or sixty yards; occasionally, they are double; one being appropriated for the egressors, the other for those returning laden with the booty. When the turkies light upon such a line of march, they fall to with a famous appetite; seeming to rival our pheasants in that particular, and exhibiting the satisfaction they feel on receiving a supply of their favorite food. In thus devouring the ants, they do great service; for, I know not of any more unpleasant companions than the little tormentors in question, whose bite is extremely keen, producing considerable irritation. Some of these ants grow to full three-quarters of an inch in length, and are capable of causing great pain. Many prevent their being destroyed, under the opinion that they feed upon white-ants: this I never could establish, though I believe they are ready enough to march off with the body of a dead white-ant, the same as they would with any other morsel of animal substance.
The difficulty of rearing turkies, renders them extremely scarce; hence, it is not uncommon to pay a gold mohur (£2.) for a well-grown, fat, turkey-cock: few, either cocks or hens, are to be had in any part of the country, for less than half that sum; and then chiefly from Portugueze families, that make a livelihood by rearing them. About Bandel, a Portugueze town, some thirty miles above Calcutta, great numbers are reared; as are also ducks, and geese, in abundance. At all the great stations, both civil and military; some persons of that description generally reside, through whose industry families are supplied. Fowls are reared by the same persons; though less an object to them, as almost every Mahomedan family maintains a few, mostly for its own use, but sometimes for sale. As to the Hindus, nothing could be more criminal than such a speculation: the very touch of a fowl being considered the acmé of pollution. From this we may judge how necessary it is to be guarded in making changes in the dress of our native soldiers; whose zeal and fidelity are unquestionable, but who instantly revolt at any invasion, however slight, of their religious tenets, or of their vulgar prejudices. Those who affect to consider such to be easily overruled, or, who vainly talk of coercing so many millions to adopt our faith, would do well to take a trip to Bengal, and to insist on any Hindu menials, or others, under their authority, wearing a feather in their turban.
As to the numerous species of wild game, such as antelopes, hog-deer, hogs, geese, ducks, teal, snipes, ortolans, quails, partridges, florikens, (or bustards,) pigeons of sorts, wild and tame, hares, &c., they are generally to be had in abundance; those of my readers who wish for a more detailed account, will find it in my ‘Wild Sports of the East,’ published in folio, with colored plates, as also in quarto royal, and imperial octavo, by Mr. Edward Orme, of Bond-street, and by Messrs. Black and Co. Leadenhall-street. In that superb work, the details of every branch of hunting, shooting, &c., will be found.
There are no wild rabbits in India, but great numbers of tame ones are to be had at Calcutta, and at some of the subordinate stations. The prices vary according to demand, age, and condition; but we may take the average at four for a rupee when half grown, and at double that rate when fit for the table. It is, however, extremely difficult to preserve them in safety from their numerous enemies the dogs, jackals, foxes, cats, rats, bats, snakes, hawks, crows, &c.
Having, I believe, generally discussed what relates to the supply of the table, I shall proceed to the description of other matters relating to the convenience and service of gentlemen resident in the East.